l_uk3y

Silly thought but you say that it is garaged 50% of the time?? Can it get garaged more then that? Another good thing to disconnect is the afm plug (quick and easy to do). You could always pull that but try to leave it looking connected. If they can get into the car to steal it then they can pop the engine bay so it cant look odvious. Although to be casing the place so often then flying off, by the sound of this then they dont sound very smart about what they are doing. If theres 5 of them packed into a car, running out in the PJ's to stop them probably isnt the greatest idea in the world either unless your packing heat. Which in this country still isnt the greatest idea in the world.

Thanks for comments guys. Yeah at first i wasnt 100% sure on the rims. But they have really grown on me. My only regret is not going for wider rears (Just for the sake of it). It also used to be lower. But after a defect i always keep it at a steady 105 mm with no passengers. Can barely get out the driveway as it is. Used to be hell before i raised it back up a bit. But yeah it did look the part (bout 90-95mm off the ground back then). Hypergear turbo arrived last night. Looks fast sitting on the floor of the lounge room . Going to start ripping the engine bay apart again this weekend. I'll get an engine bay photo before i pull it apart. Going for the same effect of polished with blue as major highlight color with a few touches of red on smaller items. Goal being a bit more "complete" and better quality job then my previous effort. Shall also try and get a few progress shots of the engine bay build whilst i put the new turbo in. May take a while being my first attempt at a turbo swap. But im not willing to pass jobs onto the mechanic anymore unless i cant get access to tools or equipment. The only bit i may handball could be plenum polishing (not something im looking forward to). Just jap is your friend for many a common part. (I think just about every bodykit supplier does a gtr wing though). I didnt use the supplied fixings for it. I opted for allen key bolt as i like them a bit more and felt they would last longer with repeated removals then a typical Phillips head. More Photos as updates happen . Cheers. Luke

Dont bother getting a tune if your only changing a BOV. If it is Recirculating back into the intake then nothing changes. If it is atmospheric then a tune wont really help unless you find an alternative to the factory Air Sensor (And even then you would only have to worry about the possible stalling issues caused by Atmo BOV's as covered in many, many a post before this) Save the tune for big mods like injectors, turbos etc. Luke

I agree. Even though I only have 188rwkw. Factory Airbox (No snorkel), and Front mount IC. Sure you feel more power on a cold winters night, but the car runs perfectly fine even in 40 degree heat during the day. As I mentioned up earlier. Your not on boost constantly on the street, so you shouldn't be building ridiculous oil destroying temperatures that could do damage unless theres something very wrong with the way the car is setup. lol. In regards to this though. I dont even put my Aircon on during summer. If i want comfort i drive the statesman. No power sapping comfort aids.

Daily is a 1999 Holden Statesman VS series III. White over Silver. Standard everything except for a K&N Pod filter. Quiet, comfy and a bit better economy then the Skyline. Don't have any photos but im sure we all know what they look like Luke

In hot weather, frontal airflow through radiator + intercooler is important (hence temps rise when stationary), and sitting on the spot smoking the tyres for example is a quick way to cause breakages. (high load, no airflow) An Oil cooler will help prevent oil temps "getting out of the zone" (once again - airflow important), Oil temp and Water temp gauges may come in handy if your extra worried and want warning when your pushing too hard. Fresh Coolant and Oils wont hurt either. If still worried turn boost down a couple of pound. (less boost = less generated heat) But the number 1 tip above all else. Your not going lap after lap after lap on the street. If your going to be on full boost in the heat of summer, Unless the engine/supporting systems are in poor condition, the engine wont just break like that. Just give it a chance to cool down between squirts. (The road is not a racetrack therefore in the real world this shouldn't be an issue) Luke

Standard S2 bar. With "Nismo style lip" http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=261&page=2 Needed minor mods to fit but nothing drastic. In person i love the way it looks, and doesn't cause any major ground clearance issues.

Heres mine as of today. Cheers. Luke

Hey guys and gals. Thought after all this time i better post some details on my car and where it is upto. I know its not upto the standard of many cars on here. But thats why it was bought several years ago as a project General theme im looking for is "my take on stealth". The initial glanse of the outside should be fairly clean and sutle nothing "out there" jumps out at you. But as you look carefully, more and more things will poke out at you. (hence why the intercooler is matte black) List of Mods Engine/Performance: 3" Blitz Nur Spec R Cat back exhaust, MetalCat, Custom Frontpipe, Front Mount Intercooler, Splitfire Coilpacks, Power FC (tuned by Racepace), Air Bleed Boost (Fabricated by Racepace - gave much better results then the previous Blitz EBC), Drift Oil Catch Can, K&N Panel Filter, Nismo Fuel Pump, some braided and silicon lines, Exedy Button Clutch. Hypergear ATR43i on order at the moment, and Nismo 550cc injectors and Z32 A/F meter already in shed awaiting turbo install. Suspension: Tein Super Street Coilovers (J spec), Whiteline front and rear swaybays (adj), Cusco front Strut brace. Wheels/Tires Enkei GTC01 18"x8.5" with Toyo Proxes tyres, 2x 15" steelies with MT streets for drag work. Bodywork Nismo Clear indicators, Nismo style front lip, GTR style rear wing, some debadging. Interior Pioneer DVD player, Digital designs rear speakers. (Used to be 2 DD 12" subs, 2 DD amps and 2 front Splits. But they weighed too much and were delegated back to the shed). Nismo Gear Knob, Drift Guages (Boost, A/F, Oil Temp and Volts), Display Unit off Blitz EBC, Stripped Back seat / all visible sound deadening. I'm sure there's a few bits and pieces missing off that list but its a start. Future plans involve installing the new turbo which is already on the way. Redoing the engine bay with upgraded color scheme, much more polishing whilst turbo is out. Bit more interior dress-up (gear boot, door trims etc), Half cage, Seats and Harnesses. Pics - lol couldn't be bothered cleaning car before taking these Comments are welcome. Please keep it constructive. More pics will come as updates occur. Cheers. Luke

Looks like it was a good event. Good job to those taking the photos. Shame i dont live in the area and am in the middle of a busy patch. Hopefully i can work towards being there next year. Luke

Well. The car finally left the garage with the new pump in tonight. Running fine. Ive read the nismos are fairly quiet. This thing sort of howls. lol. Admittedly with no back seat or sound deadening. But wow. Sounded pretty tough though i must add. Is it normal for nismo pumps to be approx double as loud as standard?? Secondly. I know i dont need a tune straight after getting the pump done. But if the car was running perfect before the pump. Am i fairly safe to be revving it right out on the new pump without affecting tune at all??? Thirdly (full of questions tonight). With a power goal of approx 250rwkw. On the Nismo pump should i be doing the wiring upgrades to make the most of it??

1st: 1991 Nissan Pintara T, 2.4l, 5spd man. Cream exterior, Brown Interior, Green neon, stereo, Chrome Hub Caps - This car although it sames lame, was AWESOME. 2nd: 1999 Mitsu Lancer MR coupe, 1.8L, 5spd man, painted dash, blue neon inside and out, filter, exhaust, EVO 5 front bar. - Felt like a king driving this around at the time not a lot of imports here. 3rd: 1996 Skyline gts-t. 190rwkw atm with new turbo on the way, NO NEONS No Backseat and much more. - Strange feeling, the need to try and prove myself has disappeared. More try to stay out of sight to avoid trouble

And here i was coming into this thread to have a laugh why you wouldnt just clean the car and take more photos. They are some good action shots. Some good touch ups as well. Shame im not on my own comp or id have a go as well.

Defected for the High Low beams. Wow. Speechless. Maybe we all need to do the "Mod" to make both headlights operate same time. Lol fancy having to do a modification away from standard to fix a defect. Left side parker is a bit soft. All the other defects are pretty common "stock standard defects", esp during a blitz. As for the BOV. Go the Stocko FTW As for the filter, I swapped back from an Apexi Pod to the Stock box after a defect and enjoy not having the ridiculous sucking noise anymore. Wouldnt go back to the pod. Not to mention its much easier to claim your using a standard ecu and turbo if you have a standard airbox )albeit most of my engine bay is painted. Good luck getting it back on the road. Luke

Only time you shouldn't give it a go yourself is if you don't have the time or the tools to give it a proper go. As long as you have those two things then i vote give it a go yourself

Lol. Yes they do have to prove it. They have a lot more chance on the street when were not interested then on the track when we are. At first when i got my 33 i noticed lots of people looking my direction then planting it. Lately i havent noticed it nearly as much as i used to. Had the window down at night time one night at a set of lights and got asked to race for pinks. I just looked at em (p platers in a camry or apollo or something similar) and couldnt be bothered even thinking up a smart reply. As mentioned above. I do the same, any set of traffic lights put on the deep stare into the distance as far away from the car next to me as possible.

Hmm. I'm Heart Broken. Ive never found anything at all. Got all the interior mostly stripped now. Looks like I'm pulling the carpet up tomorrow night. Fingers Crossed.

Not a Nissan. Alrighty Mazda RX7 FC. Tuned to between 300-350rwkw. Stock exterior except for some gunmetal lightweight rims and ride height. Fresh coat of white paint with maybe a hint of pearl. Racing seats and Roll Cage. Ok. the Following pics arnt exact to my mod selection. But gives the idea my thinking.

Thanks for the help guys. Pump is in. Car is running again (cant take it out of the street to test as No interior or seatbelts atm. and i dont have a milkcrate to use as a makeshift seat For peoples future reference. My ring was getting a knocked about trying to get it back on. (No funny comments there please ). Ended up putting a bit of inox on the inside thread of the ring. Went on like a dream, then secured fine once tightened. Literally took about 2 minutes to finish off. Cheers. Luke

Just some feedback for everyone. Several weeks on. Still no answer. Ended up buying through slide off this website. Parts received about a week after ordering. Cost a bit more then Greenline. But answered every email within 24 hours. Cheers. Luke

Personally id go to a solicitors office (pref one with experience on traffic crimes) and get their advice on what your chances are! Unless they messed up the paperwork, or when they show the video you were really only doing 115 or less (how clear is video of accurately displaying speed) then it would take a massive blunder by them in court for you to win. On the second note. They were doing 80kmh, you "allegedly overtook at 140kmh", I'm sure you woulda had them by 2 lengths before you hit 110. So I'm sure that would show on the video as well whether you instantly slowed after overtaking or kept it going for a bit afterward which may go with or against you in court. Good Luck with it. Luke

Hey guys. Currently in process of installing Nismo intank fuel pump on the 33. Working off the tute in the diy section. Everything was going to plan until i put the new pump back in the hole. I cant find the spot to actually mount the bracket inside. When i pulled the original pump out it didnt appear to have the mount part holding onto anything either. It is sitting right at the bottom of the tank part. Am i pretty safe to close it all up and leave it go? Or is there issues this could cause (maybe like fuel surge if the pump moves (even though it seems fairly steady). Secondly. With the black ring that you have to tap around (with wood and mallet by the tutorial). A few of the tab bits are starting to dent a bit. Has anyone come across a better method to tighten the ring over the lid??? Thanks for any help. ps if anything doesnt make sense im a bit "fuelled up" atm. lol. Cheers Luke

Currently. UFC 2009, Batman on PS3 and been going old school a fair bit lately also Jagged Alliance 2, Sim Farm, Transportation Tycoon, Scorched Earth (PC). And on Emulators/Roms Seiken Densetsu 3 (Snes), Mario Kart (Snes), Mario Golf (N64)

Gotta be the Lambo. Gives off a difference presence to onlookers. I think you'd get more respect being seen in a Lambo then a Ferrari. Not to mention the Engine note

I'd pick the 34 over the 33 due to being a bit fresher and nicer interior. Other options if the NA Supra is out of the picture. 300zx (sure people are paying them out, Couple of mates here have had them (both NA), one stock, one lightly modified, neither have any problems and with a few subtle mods they look awesome. S13/180. Stick with the handling mods. Could be flamed here. but Toyota MR2. (Don't see a lot these days but might be worth a look) Honda with VTEC. (Very rice, very boy racer, Front wheel drive. But high revs) Early/mid RX7, with NA rotary (lol i'm gonna get flamed bad)