l_uk3y

Hey might be interested in the spoiler. Although im in Bendigo (Victoria), would you consider posting?

Man what a time for this thread to come up. If anyone knows of where these are available from, please advise. Ive been searching with no luck and have resorted to fibreglassing my own up (only midway through first side on front lip) (Should look alrite but im not talented enough to get a true prof look). Im also after front, sides and maybe rear.

Hey guys Just a quick question for today... Who knows of any great roads in Victoria that are worth travelling to just to drive on. Looking for anything with a nice large selection of corners, that DOESNT require doing anything that will cause trouble. I.e a nice 80-100kmh speed. There is nothing really locally (Bendigo) that really fits the bill, hence the need to look towards something to maybe make an excuse for a road trip. Ive heard the Great Ocean Road is aight. But im thinking it may be just a fraction to far for a simple day trip. Any thoughts??? Luke.

In all honestly though. Considering the stated goal "maintain speed limit", besides the high end luxury cars that attend. What is the difference between organising somthing at a slightly smaller level in the sence of a long distance cruise among diff car clubs. If you could find enough interested clubs from say Victoria. Theres no reason you couldnt get 50 cars from all genres doing a road trip from say Melb to Qld through to SA then back to melb. Do it over the space of 1 week. Have all accomodation pre booked. If people decide to speed then they get pulled over and are up the creek. Just like in the $12,000 version. Organising a "less known" version would probably only end of costing $2k-3k including fuel, accomo etc depending on night time expenditure/partying. Just my thought. and in answer to this. Yes i would also love to do this as well before i die. Preferably in some form of oldschool sports car from the 70's as compared to a late model import purely for the entertainment factor. A Black Datsun 260z with a V8 conversion and racing seats comes to mind. Also be fun to get cars like in the movies (i.e limos, ambos). One question left. Who is capable of organising such a thing? Luke

Hmm. Christmas came a bit early for her with a set of MT's. Although for Christmas i plan on getting her a set of Enkei gtc01's. (If the supplier finally gets them in stock ) Starting to wonder if it will ever happen. Also almost finished saving for a HKS gt-rs (or equiv). Although then need to save for pumps, ecus and injectors. so that might be for ready for next x-mas

Update to this. After taking a small amount of material off the calipers (nissan logo was fine. it was rubbing at the top of the caliper (as the red paint was rubbing off). Quick hit with the dremmel and they are fitting and currently sitting on the car. Ride quality is fine, as far as sensible driving around town they are fine. One hard launch has seen very minor chirp then business as normal. So all in all a good weekend out. Spacers + Grind = Fix Luke

Have been told that they came off a skyline and have been fitted to a r32 and r33 in the past. And only have them for the Mt's.

Hey guys. Just bought a set of 15" wheels for the drags to go on my 96 Gts-T. And they are not clearing the brakes (completely locked up tight on the calipers . Put on a set of roughly 5mm spacers in a hope it would fix it. Now it is soo close it isnt funny. The wheel will turn but in the process it is rubbing on the brake calipers (stockos). I have 3 weeks before our next Drag meet and i really need something working by then. I would rather not grind calipers or the inside of the wheels Any thoughts on how i might aleiate the problem. Whether a larger spacer would not be putting too much risk on the wheel or so on. As i said. I can get the wheel to turn (by hand) whilst it rubs so there cant be a lot holding it back. Any suggestions would be great. I cant afford to not be prepared for the next meet as ive invited several of the V8 mates along and i dont want the Skyline coming 2nd best. Luke

Hey guys. Well. Its time to bite the bullet. The car is screaming for a tune after hitting close enough to the standard R33 gts-t Turbos limit. So after think about sending it for a retune. The little demon inside is screaming for me to do it properly. After searching and searching through different posts i am yet to find any practical information for me to study. In basic I am trying to achieve approx 230-240rwkw (not heaps) But i want it to come on fairly hard and fast early in the rev range. Basically little a stock turbo on steroids. Something that will bolt straight onto the stock manifold. Of course im also unsure what brands/models are best for my application. So here is the question. What would you recommend for my street setup. Budget $4000-5000 Turbo - (230-240rwkw, comes on hard fairly early, bolts in standard location) Ecu - (Budget but providing good street level features, have no desire for hand controllers or screens) Injectors - (that will do the job) Fuel pump - (Direct in pump replacement, quiet preferred) Everything else should be pretty much upto the task. Any help would be great. Probably working on buying all parts individually and taking it all into a Melbourne workshop to tune and install. Cheers Luke.

Hey Guys. Just a quick post to say that I am planning a trip to Heathcote park on November 23 to the Test and Tune. (just for a Fun Sunday out), hopefully my gts-T, several other Nissan imports, a few late model Commodore V8's etc, plus all the usual Heathcote attendees. If anyone is interested they should come out for a run seen as us Bendigo folk dont get a chance to meet any of the melbourne or other Vic members. Now for the "call" My prev best with a slipping clutch on poor tyres, with minor mods was a 14.4 at 97mph. This time. Bit more power, new clutch and M/T's looking to crack a 13.5 or better. At least that is the goal. Time will tell. (As long as i beat a mates Brand new 6L SS i dont care ) Hope to see you all out there. Luke

I can hear my stock fuel pump clear as day (even whilst driving ) but only cuz the rear seat is out and the boot is stripped. When its all in its a lot lot quieter but can hear it on the very initial start up even when everything is actually in the car. I just give it say 2 seconds of key before i start. Never had a problem. Luke

Hey guys. Well. after one of those days of a closed door meeting with the boss, suprisingly walked out with a bonus. Yay was that a relieve. Anyways. Point of the story. Ive now got $1500 to spend. Now i guess that gives me 3 options. - Tell the wife and spend it on the house - Bank it - Splurge it all on the car Ok. I already think ive made my decision. I currently have a set of MT streets coming my way (got a drag day on Nov 23). As well as a set of 18" Enkeis coming my way also. Car in question is a 96 R33 Gts-t with all the main mods running STOCK turbo.(with no goal of upgrading), as well as Tein Coilovers. Car mostly see's street use with bit of Drag thrown in. Just a case of deciding what to get. Things i have come up with so far - Whiteline Sway bars - Remap Ecu - New seats - GTR spoiler - Anything i cant think of at the moment!!! What would you's get. Anything that might take off a tenth or 2 off the times without requiring turbo change would be good. Although car see's just as many show and shines as it does drag days. So the seats and spoiler would be alright too. Let me know your thoughts. Cheers. Luke

Should it all be wired up correctly. Your answer should be found on the right hand stick doovalacki (for want of a better name) that controls the Indicators and Headlights. Half way up on that should be a switch you can twist that will flick them on. Luke.

Lol dont know about Carpenter. Just a DIY hack. Just have a thought at your budget, and goals. Think of a design trying to keep in mind your experience level. At the end of the day. If it will fit and you can afford it, it is possible. In my case im just making my box out of MDF so it just fit in the boot, then adding everything else over the top to turn it into a display (Keep in mind diff subs require diff size boxes). If you want to keep it simple make a box using mdf, screws and some form of silicon (Seal any leaks), get a spray adhesive and carpet the box. Mount amp to side of box. If that works for you. I generally get my timber at the local bunnings, fibreglass supplys from a paint place. Just think before you buy and work out roughly how much you need before you buy everything or it will get costly very quick. Or you'll end up 5mm short. I just decided one day that i wanted to try fibreglassing so I thought of an "unrelated to the stereo" idea of something to make to get experience. And slowly worked my confidence up into trying to integrate it into the stereo setup. (In my case to conceal any imperfections in my carpentry and wiring ) Hopefully ill have an update to mine in the next week or 2 with a few minor changes to amp locations as well as its all wired up. Mightn't have the quality of some of the jobs here. But for my first backyard "not simple" install it is coming up as good as i believe i can get it. Luke

Hey guys once again just heard back about more sizes being available very soon. 2 Questions. These offsets sound better to me. just want to confirm and for general street use. With hopefully track aspirations in the future is there much point going for 9"s at the rear. Or just stick with the 8.5's. Cheers. Luke

Thanks for that guys. Ive sent another email off to see when more sizes are available. i reckon ill want 8.5's for the front and 9's on the rear. Hopefully they will have more available soon. Im dealing with Taleb Tyres at the moment. Does anyone know any other places that Deal with Enkei that they can recommend?? Thanks.. Luke

Hey Guys. Finally at that stage where im ready to get some new wheels. Now im looking for something light, good quality etc. After all my searching ive found something i like. Enkei gtc01. 18" The pricing ive come up with is $660 per wheel delivered which is within my budget. However the only option available atm is 18*8 with +40 offset on front and rear. Im interested to know for certain that this will suit a 96 series 2 R33 Gts-T. Running standard brakes so clearance that side will be fine but unsure about the offset and guard clearance. (Want rim to fit in nicely and not look out of place whether it be sunken in or sticking out) The 2nd question is even if they do fit. only 8" wide. sure they are for 99% street use But hmm. maybe i should be looking for something wider? At least in the rear?? Any comments would be great. Thanks. Luke

Hey there. I recently had the same problem which existed after installing a split dump pipe. Ended up going from a manual boost controller to a Blitz EBC. SAME problem. changed back to the Stocky with wires connected to run 5psi only. Still same problem. Turned out i had a leaking exhaust manifold gasket and now that is fixed im running an almost stable 13psi. Even now it is fixed there is still a hint of creep but it is very easily controllable by the ebc.. Just incase it may be worth getting under there and checking that theres no sign of leakage out the exhaust manifold. Mightn't help in your situation but it may be worth a try. Luke

This is my setup at the moment. Still a work in progress (Odviously, seen as no wires are connected), been over 6 months since its been connected. Besides wiring it up (Wires already in place, just need to be connected), just need to put brackets in to hold the amps as seen in the pics. Then I'll make up a fibreglass shell that will sit over the top of the install that will sit flush with the opening on the boot (with cut outs so the amps and subs sit out) Only One thing. And Opinions would be greatly appreciated. Is what to put in the space between the subs. Option 1: Capicator- Look good, does nothing Option 2: Screen (already got dvd player in the front so easy install but a bit over budget) Option 3: Static display of some description. Not overly sure what. Any thoughts please let me know p.s the pic makes it look a bit misaligned. But in the flesh it looks a lot better

I wouldn't stress too much at this stage about getting a retune. If your looking at getting a cooler im guessing your still fairly early off in the mod stage. Depending on your goals if your sticking with the standard turbo id finish all your mods then retune so you only hve to do it once. If your changing turbos and going a bit more extreme then id worry about tuning when you get to that stage. No point wasting money getting a tune everytime you do something. I had my front mount and exhaust all put in at the same time, when i took it out for the first time afterwards the only difference i noticed was getting a bit more boost and the car was louder. Lol. At that level the parts didnt adversly affect the car much Luke

Hmmm. update to this thread. Standard Boost Control is back, was creeping upto about 0.80 bar after install. All was well. Just installed the new Cat convertor. Pick up is noticably improved. Except now even the stock boost solonoid is managing to slip out to around 0.90 bar (Definately too much) and that is without totally winding the revs out. Can you elaborate on that. i.e Is that the bracket looking part that is attached to the turbo with the rod connected to it? My other thought is maybe reinstall the stock dump pipe. Hopefully the stocky will fit with the new front pipe. Should do as they welded the flanges on. as long as the length is the same.

I had a Fibreglass (as is most kits) Evo front bar on my lancer (Before the Skyline). Made a big difference to the look of the car. (My opinion for the positive). Drew a bit more attention but nothing drastic. However. It made the car feel a lot more Fragile. Especially when you start seeing minor cracks form around the major mounting points. Then when i roadworthyed the car to sell it. They said they wouldnt give me a roadroady with a fibreglass bumper due to impact resistance. On a positive the front bar arrived and fit the car perfectly which was good. Ill never change the front bar on my line. I am considering a Carbon Lip + Diffuser to go under my standard S2 bar. But I would never buy a cheap f/g replacement anymore.

THanks for the help guys. Problem solved Boost level again. well as level as the pathetic stock 2 stage boost is. Book in for the check early next week. And i dont think i will reinstall the EBC straight away.. Ive still got the Controller set up in the cabin as a guage and the wires all running into the engine bay (Hidden) I.e just plug the solonoid in and it works again. But ill probably just stealth the Solonoid in place and only connect it during Drag days. Im only running approx 1.5ish psi different anyway. First thing ill be doing is earthing the stocky off again to get it back to single stage boost.

Awesome. That should be exactly what i need. Drove past Bendigo's local "Modified Car Hunter" on a quiet stretch of road. Quickly saw the U turn in my rear view. He said he went passed and thought i looked low. (The intercooler wouldnt have helped either). And that was pretty much it.

Hey guys. Got defected on the weekend. 2 many intake mods (Easy fix) Stock airbox back on 5mm too low (95mm) Adjustable. Easy fix Aftermarket Boost control. ummm. ok. The original Solonoid has been mounted, Plugged back in. But The vaccum lines. I cant remember how they went. 1 line was plugged, the other 2. Top or Bottom on the solonoid. either way ive tryed setting it up in several ways all resulting in massive spiking. The car is a Series 2 R33 Gts-T. If anyone could PLEASE advice me on which line i have to put the tee in. and Which lines go at the top and which at the bottom. OR provide a nice clear Photo of the standard layout (All my stock pics arent clear enough to see each vaccum line clearly) It would be greatly appreciated. As of this Saturday i cant drive the car anywhere except to VicRoads. Id rather set it all up Properly rather then dodgy the lines just to have them plugged in to look the part. Dont want to take unnecesary chances. Cheers for any help anyone can offer. Luke