l_uk3y

Update on this.. Left it idling for a while yesterday. Smoke lasted for 18.5 minutes. After that nothing. So problem is solved. Took the car around the block last night. Tune is completely up the creek. But I expected that. Considering new turbo, moved CAS and factory bov is venting to atmosphere. I'd be running poor as well. Those to be cured soon enough. Cheers for the help guys. Knowing that the smoke was a semi normal thing made a bit difference in sitting there watching it happen. Luke

Thanks for the help guys. Only had a chance to start it up once more. The smoke appears to be coming from around the flange between turbo and dump but it doesn't appear to be coming from a leak. The first sign of smoke occurs at 3.5 minutes (stopwatch). This arvo i'll drop the oil drain to double check and just let it run for a while. Im thinking of dropping the split dump pipe and replacing with a justjap bellmouth as I wasn't entirely happy with the way the split dump lined up with the new turbo. (The pipes, not the flange). For now we'll let the bugger run and see where we end up.

Alrightly I'll take a closer look tomorrow after work. So leaving it idle even though it seems to be getting hot very quickly shouldn't do any major damage? Im a bit worryed about damaging the turbo if somethings not right. I'll take a closer look tommorow night. I've love to hear any other thoughts of any small tests I could do or things to confirm are right. If I cant figure it out from there I might try and get it towed to my mechanic (grr as I really really want to finish this myself and just have them double check the timing when im finished) Either way. I better get back home now before the wife starts getting shitty about me putting the car before this movie we are meant to be watching together tonight. (lmao)

Unsure with smell. Was far too hot to touch immediately afterwards. After it cooled down just enough I touched the dump pipe and had a really dry feel to it (lol like a piece of steak left in the pan far too long ). The turbo may have a very minor oily mist over it but nothing that stands out. I couldn't tell if the smoke was coming from the inside of the pipework and leaking through a joint or whether it was coming off the surface area. The fact that the turbo and pipework got so hot after such a short period of time considering it was only idling has me rather concerned.

Hey guys. Just "finished" the install on my Hypergear Atr43i turbo on my R33 (Rb25). I've been very careful in making sure that everything has been connected up / filled etc. Anyways first test tonight. Engine started straight away, idle was a bit rough, revs dropped very low, then came back upto normal rpm range. Touched the accelerator for a fraction of a 2nd and it felt like it was going to cut out. Then left it idling Left the car idling for about 1-2 minutes with bonnet up inspecting for any problems. PROBLEM ARRIVED. Smoke started coming from the turbo/dump pipe (white smoke only coming from that location). They were extremely hot after such a short time. Shut the engine down. After a couple of minutes the smoke stopped coming off. Now trying to diagnose the problem before I have another go. The Oil feed and return lines are definately connected and not leaking. Coolant lines to turbo definately connected, minor leak on 1 side but only like a drip or 2 every week. The CAS sensor was removed during the install and put back in with the marks lining up nicely (by eye but without timing light). (potential source of problem maybe????) ECU is power FC. Same tune as was on stock turbo however the car was only at idle so nothing crazy should occuring with the tune I dont believe??? Engine never had any problems before the install. So shouldn't be an issue now. The turbo is the only actual new component other then hoses/lines. (injectors and AFM are still in the cupboard) Afterwards I checked all my lines and hoses and the only thing that I managed to find was the wire that usually grounds off on the exhaust manifold wasn't connected (just the washer on a flat wire). Didn't restart the car after reconnecting this. Sorry for the long and broken up post, trying to keep it nice and easy to follow. Any ideas what a potential source of the problem might be???? Any factors for me to consider and particular parts to test? Any help would be much appreciated as I have been very careful throughout the install making sure I've double checked everything and dont believe i've missed anything. Cheers for any help Luke

I found a basic temperature gauge at supercheap a while back. Bought it but never ended up putting it in. Run off a small battery, had an LCD display. Had 2 inputs which meant if you put a wire on one side of an intercooler and the other on the other side of an intercooler (example only) you could see what temperature it is on both sides to find out the difference. Funny thing is I only found it in my box of spare "random" stuff this weekend.

Easy fix. Get one for the passenger side and rip out the back seat so you don't need to worry about back seat passengers

I had this idea a while back as well. It sounds like a great idea although the biggest problem is being a skyline you'll most likely be pulled over anyway "for the sake of it". As soon as they pop the bonnet they will see underneath and it will be pretty obvious that it isn't standard. Would be a fantastic idea in a true sleeper that will pass by unnoticed in the first place. Luke

For a bit of extra concealment for mine I will be fabricating a new stainless heat shield for the rear half of the turbo and the front half with be mostly concealed by a Fiberglass Air guide I will make which will "guide air to the airbox from between the headlights" but will sit nicely on top of the boost control and reach over the turbo inlet. (Even though most of the bay is shiney, this air guide will be black)

Hopefully someone with a lot of money and passion buys it because it wouldn't take that much to make it much better. It is also not at the mercy of having ever expanding residential areas complaining like Calder has. Not that harder day trip for much of Melbourne, very easy for us here in Bendigo and many other regional towns in the area. Little bit of a freshen up and some promotion of off-street racing would do the place a lot of good.

Been pulled over in vic (Melb cop in marked SS up in the country for the weekend) with no Rear seats (seatbelts still in), no front passenger seat and the MT's on the rear. He wasn't overly fussed, just asked if I'd been to the track recently, whether he was just in a good mood or not I'm not sure. Still considering reregistering as a 2 seater though as its a much more permanant setup now then it was then. Luke

I've got a 3" Blitz Nur exhaust. I won't recommend it for your purposes. Has a fair bit of low rpm noise. I love it on full noise but have always considered changing for something with a little bit less noise when daudling around. Luke

Awesome. Would love to see more vid's of that without so much background noise to really get the most of the engine note. I'll be happy to crack into the 12's let alone the 8's Congrats to the owner/builder Luke

Just wondering if any has or knows where to purchase a really good quality silicon hose. Only need about 1 metre. Size around 15mm/20mm. If anyone has any left over from a previous job or knows a supplier that does smallish quantities give us a yell. Cheers. Luke

Man I hate rust. That 2nd photo is nasty. Hope it ain't too serious and you can get it cut out and weld in fresh stuff to pass the inspection

I think there is a huge untapped potential for a private investor/company to build up a private stretch of track/road about 30 mins to an hour outside of all the major capital cities. The sort of place that is open every day (or weekend depending on popularity) The Start and finish would be nearby but not attached. You would travel to the venue, go in the gate and pay your money. Get your car scrutinized for safety features. The track would be roughly a 10 minute flat out trip with safe run of areas and flag people in particular areas to advise of trouble ahead. You would start your lap and come out the other side and determine whether you want to pay for another lap or go home. Cars would run apart 2 minutes. So it would operate much like a tarmac rally stage. Also the potential for booking the venue for the day for clubs / work functions etc. Seen as we would be talking serious investment their is also potential for on site hotel much like a Golf Course Resort. People could purchase memberships for the track just like a Golf Course to allow access. (probably quite expensive but awesome). Also potential for hiring out budget track cars for a price as well as private lessons. Would be an expensive venue to setup. However I believe it would be economically viable in the long run pending insurance costs as well as the massive arguements with councils and greeny groups to get it set up. To the Government and large Businesses. If this issue is as serious as you all keep telling us in the news, then drastic times need drastic measures and a top level race facility that is always running and caters for 95% of enthusiasts has to help. At the very least it will assist in the business or government having another source of revenue as well as assisting giving more excuses to take it off our streets. Also meaning that you can increase penalties to those whom as complete hazards whilst being more leniant to those that behave. Its all a dream really. Sadly I doubt it will ever happen and I wouldn't even be able to afford to setup the front gate of this, let alone fund the whole thing

As above. Just trying to figure out whether I am able to test my new setup at idle in the garage. Everything is reconnected except for a breather line from rocker cover to intake pipe and the BOV return line which I would cap off for the sake of testing. Just wondering whether having these disconnected will cause issues with the car running at idle (i.e pumping oily mess out of the breather), or any vaccum leaks or similar? Cheers for any thoughts. Luke

Nothing wrong with R31's. I've always found them much more enjoyable to drive and passenger in then its obvious competitors being similar aged commodores and falcons.

Yeah I did this many many moons ago. Good ol Coke can gasket, along with upgraded intercooler and pod filter. Good for giggles for a week or 2. Got old pretty quick though. Didn't like the stalling problems but did like the pops and gurgled it gave up when backing off. Luke

Theres a care/ute hire place opposite the Reece plumbing store a block up from the cathedral just after Repco. No idea on prices but worth a look. So we have more Bendigo members now? Or just visiting?

Hmm. My fav style designs that seem to last at least in my mind. Lambo Countach Ferrari F40 Ford GT40 And lol. The Pantera is just plain tough.

Yeah just watched it on the news. Whether there were normal people that they declined to interview. Most seemed very "Dumbass Wanker" to me. Bit like that fool. "I love hearing my wastegate open up. I got 350kw mate" or some rubbish like that. I mean seriously. No wonder the public hates us all. I bet less then 2% of them have even seen a 1/4 mile track from the spectating position let alone actually raced. Proper example of hoon.

As a guide. I just had a 3" piece of stainless made up with fittings welded on for BOV return and Breather line. Also had the pipe between turbo outlet and intercooler inlet remade out of 2.5" stainless. I paid $140 (inc parts and labor) for both stainless sections. So for the sake of it the rubber intake part would have cost roughly $50-60 to make out of a straight piece of stainless. I connected this up using 2 Silicon elbows (AFM side and Turbo side) they were about $60-70 ish each. So to recreate this section in 3" / 75mm (this size suits my new turbo). Total cost about $200 keeping in mind I'll be installing it myself. You will still need to add the price of reconnecting the BOV return and Breather lines, however price will vary exponentially from cheap hose to Braided line with suitable fittings so I wont mention this bit Hope that helps. Luke

My unprofessional opinion on this is to stick with a highmount turbo that will sit below the bonnet level just. Seen as its a dedicated drag car hack the bonnet and deliberately shape the bonnet to sink down towards turbo inlet. The goal being to keep airflow as steady as possible over the bonnet whilst also helping guide fresh air into the turbine. I see a turbo sticking right out of the bonnet as creating unnecessary drag which will not help you go faster. Remoulding the bonnet to guide air into the turbo without it actually sticking out you will still be able to seal it off to fresh air but without adding unnecessary drag. Do some research on the net regarding Aerodynamics for drag racing purposes as it will explain this better. You want to avoid any extremities that will mess up the airflow. My 2c. Luke

Hmmm. Maybe Its just me but the main thing that stands out to me is the ECU The standard ECU with a modified turbo running 15psi is probably screaming out at you "What are you doing man?, I just shouldn't be breathing this hard". I'd look at getting this new setup tuned with a power fc or equivalent. (you may even find a good tuner will be able to diagnose the problem during the tuning process). Then depending on your highflow you will probably be getting pretty close to pump and injectors as well (re tune after injectors as well).