MR34GT

I think most people toss up between plastic and metal pod sheilds all the time cos of the heat radiation side of things (after all we do want cold air), but the main point is that plastic can be just as bad as metal. Sure metal absorbs heat and doesnt disapate it as quick as plastic, but plastic really doesnt even prevent heat from going thru it. The most effective thing to do is go to clark rubber or summwhere and line the inside of your sheild\box with thin rubber or some sort of insulation. Looks crappy sometimes but i guarantee that pod air temps will be alot colder than the engine bay.

Deffinatly gonna damage ya ears..... but soooo worth it!!!!

I wish i still had my skyline cos id be askin u to paint mine!!!

I think there has been alot of us Nismo fans out there wanting the Z-Tune guards on our cars for ages now but id sahy 90% of us all come to the same conclusion. Without doing the back as well your just making a R34 look like a front wheel drive dragger. Not cool. And once you do the back (if you got the cash) you probably could have bought a GTR anyway. Respect for those who do it though but id never have the cash. I went down the track of a Bomex kit on mine and to be honest, regret it. Thought it looked pretty cool at first but then realised i liked stock so much better!

Hmmm, closest thing i can think of off the top of my head is a set of RSGT's i saw at ozzy tyres. I was thinkin of puttin them on my 34 GTT but culdnt get them in a deep dish so i went for the maas racing wheels instead with the black centre.

Hi Guys, Found out the other day that im goin to be a dad soon so its time to downgrade from the almighty 34 to a family car, Anyway cars features are 57000kms Manual 5 speed Remote starter unit/turbo timer GTR Bomex body kit Uras Eyelids Graphite black vinyls 3in stainless Trust exhaust (Turbo Back) Gizmo MS EBCII (6 stage electronic boost controller) Maas racing wheels (deep dish 19x8.5 front 19x9.5 rear) Brand new Falken Tyres Top of the line Alpine CD/MP3/I pod player 7in Motorized LCD screen (built in TV Tuner) X Box or PS2 console included with car (Take your pick) GFB Stealth FX Blow off valve Umm yeah i guess the list keeps goin but i cant remember everything on it. I imported it with 36000kms on the clock about 2 years ago now. I will consider any swap offers or serious money offers. More pics will be posted soon or upon request. Call 0401 336 903

Well my opinion is if you want some bling show factor the the UAS box is best, but if you use the standard box and get cutting at least you will still have the snorkel goin to the top of the box which will ensure a nice cold air supply. I personally have just kept the stock box but was considering the ARC super induction box but im not sure where exactly that draws the air from.

Much work in making yours like a 260RS rb26stagea??? Sounds like a fun project to me. But then again a RB26DETT wagon with AWD is just the best thing to turn heads!

I also put a boost controller on my R34 recently as well but i didnt touch the boost sensor. I just disconected the lines from the factory boost solonoid near the actuator. So i doesnt realy matter what the boost sensor does now cos its pretty much being bypassed. Well thats what i was told to beleive anyway.

I like the way ya think emsta

Yeah the market is a bit low lately, anyway its got 52,000kms on the clock and its a 5 speed manual. Got a mate whos willing to pay $30,000 for it but yet again hes one of those "if you can hold onto it for another few weeks until i can get a job" blokes. But yeah im more than happy to hang onto it until the right price comes along. If only i could have a GTt and a GTR, ah life would be sweet.

Ok guys, Im heart broken. Its come time to sell my baby (R34 GTt) . Im not happy to see it go but its time for something a little better. And what exactly is better that a R34 GTt, none other than a R34GTR!!! So i need some help in how much i should sell my car for, if anyone has an opinion please let me know. Make/Model : 1998 R34 GTt Nissan Skyline Engine: RB25DET (Neo) Hardware: Trust 3in Stainless Steel Cat Back Exhaust Liverpool Exhausts Ceramic Coated Twin Dump Pipe 3in High Flow Cat GFB Stealth FX Blow Off Valve Simota Sillicon Vacuum Lines K & N Pannel Filter Electronics: Remote Engine Starter Unit Drift Gauges in place of factory tripple cluster (Boost,Oil Temp, A/F Ratio) Blue LED Dash Kit Gizzmo MS-IBC II 6 stage boost controller Rolling Stock: Maas Racing Wheels 19x8.5 245/30 Falkens Front 19x9.5 275/30 Falkens Rear Suspension/Handling: Standard Suspension Lucas Hi Performance Brake Pads Bodywork: Full Genuine Bomex Bodykit Uras Eyelids Custom Graphite Black Vynils In Car Entertainment: Alpine CDA-9855 Head Unit Alpine KC – 20A iPod addapter 7in Motorized In Dash LCD Screen w/TV Tuner Microsoft X Box Console (Unfortunatly i couldnt find a pic of the car with the new wheels on it but if you want to see the ill try n post a new pic up 2moz)

Hahaha, nice to see that there are some people dedicated to ARC. So does anyone know where i can get my hands on one of these mythical cooling devices?

Hey guys, Bout to get a fmic for my 34 GT-t and basicly going through all the options that are on the market these days. But i was just wondering if anyone has used a ARC intercooler kit before and what did you think of it. I see alot of the ARC kits on some pretty high performance skylines but i cant find much info on them at all. Does anyone know where you can buy these kits and how they rack up against the likes of HKS, Blitz and Trust???

Well firstly yes the controller is all wired up, but the problem im having is that no matter what duty cycle or gain i set the controller at eg: 80% duty cycle 50% gain, the car will still only go to 4.6psi max which is the number displayed on the gizmo controller as the max boost for setting 1. It just seems to me that the solonoid isnt closing so the boost would just be running the bare minimum of the wastegate.

Hi Guys, Bought a boost controller for my R34 GTT yesterday. Its a Gizzmo MS-IBC. Problem is ive wired the boost controller up and everything seems to be in the right place but no matter what figure i set the duty cycle and gain percentages at m car is only running 5psi max! This seems to me to just be the turbo running on the standard wastegate presure. Anyone else had this sort of problem when fitting a boost controller to a near stock R34.

Yeah well i was hoping that there was a way of getting around this. Well ill shop around and see if there are any decent alarm packages on the market that have a remote starter included.

Hi all. I imported my R34 GTT skyline last year around may and when it came the only mod on the car was a "Starbo" remote stater unit. I thought it was a funky bit of gear considering it could start the car and turn it off but also worked as a turbotimer. My only problem now is that the car doesnt have an alarm system or imobilizer on it!!! Is it even possible to have this remote starter unit on the car with a imobilizer/alarm system or will it just screw everything up???

Hey Guys, Im about to go out and replace the factory dump/front pipe and cat converter to some aftermarket items. Just wondering, is it essential to get my car on a dyno once they have been installed. Ive had a few people say that it might jack the boost levels up a little bit a throw the Air to Fuel ratios out. Does anyone know what effect this upgrade has on a R34 GTT? Oh yeah i currently have a 3" stainless steel Cat Back system and am putting on a liverpool exhausts 3" Front pipe and a high flow cat.

Yeah i just tried splicing it then but the voltage output doesnt seem right. For now ive put in a few resistors so the factory gauge is reading about the same as the new gauge but this still seems very dodgy.

Hey guys, Picked up a few gauges to stick in my R34 GTT skyline. They are going to replace the factory ones in the tripple gauge cluster. Only problem is tho that with the oil temp gauge i bought there was no sender included with the kit. Just a grey wire that the instrucions (if you could even class them as that!) say to hook up to the oil temp sender or something. Anyone know if i could just tap into the wiring loom from the original gauges and use the wire that used to run the stock oil temp gauge???