Duke_R32

I dont see why you couldnt fit a manual radiator as u already have an external auto cooler

Your evaporator drain is blocked causing moisture to build up and fill ur cabin, any air-con system builds up moisture which leaks through the evap drain. in not sure with the skylines but most drains are on the firewall some of them are near the chassis rail. You prob have noticed water leaking from the back of a bus when ur driving in traffic this is the same thing

Good write up. one thing i want to add aswell is be extrememly careful when using the spring tensioners coz the spring will be under alot of tension and if one of those bastards come off just make sure your head isnt the 1st thing the spring can hit. a good tip is to place them at 180 degrees apart when compacting the spring, just less chance of the tensioner coming off

Had the same problem with my stepdads VL, same prob through 3 thermostats. and by that time i was pissed off so i place the thermostat in boiling water ontop of the stove and check to see if was opening then put it into warm water and see if it closes. i did this about 3 times and put it back into the car now its all sweet. so what im saying is test the thermostat in boiling water before putting it into ur car.

Does it really matter what car is the fastest, or more superior. Have your own opinion and buy a car to your tastes. i own a R32 because i dont like the shape of an R33. thats my opinion. before you go buying the FASTEST car, learn how to handle one. you dont need the extra power to learn how to drive a car. if you have learnt how to handle a car then you should know what car is better for your needs without posting a VS thread. thats my 2c

Buy a RB25DET half cut, save u a shit load of money and if the front cut is good u get the 4pot brakes and all that shit.

Try jack up the back of the car, when i did mine by myself i had the car at an even hieght on 4 car stands and used a jack to balance the gearbox. from memory it was a bit fiddly to get back on but keep wriggling side to side and it should pop back on. also make sure the lugs go on properly (it might be fowling on the bell housing)and it would be good now to apply an anti-sieze to the lugs just incase you have to remove the gearbox again.

between $30 for a super cheapy to $120 for a decent one. (the more you pay the more plates per cell you get in your battery) i suggest if you have a problem of draining your battery you should invest in a battery charger. to check the charge rate, start the vehicle grab a multimeter and set it onto voltage. turn off all your lights and air con and place the multi meter on the battery if its reading a constant high 13V or low 14V thats good, now put some load on the battery by turning on your stereo or lights and do the same as above it should now read a constant low to medium 13V. thats the most accurate way of checking if your alternator is working. to check for a current draw have everything turned off inc your ignition. disconnect the negative battery terminal. now set your multimeter to amps and place one multimeter cable on the battery post and one on the terminal. your multimeter should be reading 0.10 -0.01amps if its around 0.2 or higher then there is a current draw. to find out where the current draw is coming from keep the multimeter as above and start removing and re-fitting your fuses one by one until the draw goes away. this just narrows down all the possibilities of what could be drawing current.

buy a new battery or charge the one you have now. there a three reasons a battery goes flat, alternator not charging properly, a current draw or a dud battery. if ur a NRMA member then give them a call as they can help u

having 4 jacks and 4 stands under your car will restrict the amount of room you have to move around, sounds kinda stupid if u ask me. if your that scared to get under a car which is on 4 car stands then make friends with a mechanic and ask to use their hoist on a sat or weeknight. if the car is on level ground and the stands are in the right positions then you should not have a problem.

the only difference to the exhaust sytem is the header pipes to the cat. the rest should be exactly the same. hope u get it sorted

heaps of ppl have put RB25DET's in R32 skylines so i cant see why a RB25DE would be any harder

any jap wrecker should have one, even get an aftermarket one made from the exhaust shop just make it in cheap mild steel for now. the 2dr exhausts fit its just short by 100mm or something like that, cant be too hard to weld some pipe in to make it longer if needed.

im pretty sure he can use the standard exhaust system from the RB20, my understanding is most of the RB20 and Rb25 parts are interchangable. if not get RB25 headers into the standard cat back or what ever he has in place. if the mechanic is screwing him over get him to tow the car to a more respectable workshop that will help him out

That what the car stands are for, so u can safely work under them as they wont collapse like a jack can. theres no real difference in safety with working under a hoist or car stands, they both go under the jacking points of the vehicle just make sure you jack the car up on level ground and have all the stands equal hights.