Sandeep

yes o2 is for closed loop part of the tune but it's not correct to say that it is only used on highway driving. it depends on how much load you are putting on the engine as to whether you are running in open loop or closed loop, so it will still make a difference in city driving depending on how you drive.

Yeah o2 sensor is usually the main culprit. Do you have access to Nissan Consult or Datascan? You can test the o2 sensor using the computer software or you can do it using a voltmeter on the pins. Test it when the the car is at operating temp, usually after a 15-20min drive. While the car is stationary (no load) rev the engine to approx 2000rpm and you want to see the voltage cycling once a second. Usually if they haven't been replaced they'll be quite slow to react or may even be dead. Other things to check are: -coolant temp sender -detonation sensor circuit error code

cool cool. let me know as soon as you find out how many are 100% coming to run their cars on the dyno. If they change their minds let me know, because if I book in the dyno session with Ray and we don't make it to 15 cars then I have to run my car again or pay the difference.

yeah i saw your event in the Vic members section, would love to do another gor run but i'd already booked this day in. hopefully some non members will come to this, we're up to 14 now, just need one more definite and we are good to go.

Hey guys, I am trying to run a dyno day for the aus300zx guys. We are a little short on numbers at the moment so figured I'd open it up to SAU members as well. DETAILS: DATE/TIME: Saturday 23rd August. Starts at 10am and will finish up whenever we run out of cars. LOCATION: RE CUSTOMS 16 Yiannis Court Springvale 3171 COST: $45 for 3 power runs. RE customs will be running a barbecue also. At present I am trying to organise some prizes, will let you all know how that goes. Currently we are about 5 cars short of our target number. I need 15 cars confirmed by Monday August 11th. If we don't get these numbers then I will have to cancel the day as it becomes too expensive for the workshop to run a dyno day with a small amount of cars. I will let you know if I do have to cancel. If you are interested in coming along to run your car on the dyno post up here or pm me so I can add you to the list. Here is a link to my thread on aus300zx: http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=277535 Thanks, hope to see you there.

he could have also argued that his car is incapable of going over 80km/h. pretty sure those 300zx's start overheating when you go above 80km/h.

normally a 5k service is just oil and filter change and a safety inspection, making sure nothing is going to fall off etc. but your owners manual will tell you what needs to be done. when i was taking my car to the zed specialist mechanic to get it serviced i didn't bother providing oil or filters, they had all that stuff there. now that i'm doing most of the work at home i use: genuine nissan oil filter $8 (the ryco Z145a is the same as the Nissan 15208-H8911AU, same as the 300zx oil filter) motul 4100 10w40. I have used the motul 300V chrono, at $90 a bottle I figured that it would be better to use the Motul 4100 which is half the price and I just change the oil every 2500km rather than 5000km. I have iridium spark plugs in there now so i don't have to change them as part of a normal service. the other stuff you listed isn't really part of a 5000km service, it's usually scheduled in your owners manual so you can just go by that. but seeing as you haven't had the car for long it might be worth changing the fuel filter, and getting the brake fluid flushed. i usually change the coolant once a year, just before summer. if you haven't had that done then maybe get that done too.

are you talking about stock z32 wheels or stock r34 wheels? z32 stockies are 16's. try www.aus300zx.com

I don't know if this applies to all Nissan's, but I do know that on the Zed the knock sensor is only monitored by the ECU up until approx 3500rpm... after that the sensor can get confused between normal engine vibration/noise and detonation and may put you into safety maps even though you're not detonating. I reckon the best way would be something like a knock-link.

I have datascan and as far as i know it cannot log the knock sensor. As Pete said above, ECU error code for detonation sensor circuit just means that your det sensor circuit is showing an abnormal resistance (open circuit, dead sensor etc) and will trigger the error code. When your car does detonate it will go into safety mode, it will not show an error code. Have you considered an aftermarket product like a knock-link? You can read up about them on the AMEC website ( www.amecautocare.com.au ) under the electornics section.

yeah you can bypass the knock sensor with a resistor. where you put the resistor depends on where your knock sensor circuit has failed. There should be 2 sections of wiring from your ecu to the knock sensor. Would look be like this: [ECU-wiring loom-connector] and then [connector-sub harness- knock sensor]. Basically when your ecu will measure the resistance of this circuit and if you have say a faulty sensor or an open circuit this will cause your ecu to trip the error code which puts you in safety maps. This article isn't skyline specific (it's for a z32) but if you can find the knock sensor/ sub harness connector on your skyline you should be able to run the multimeter tests and figure out what size resistor you need and where you need to bypass it. http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugi...php?content.429 just remember that if you do bypass it your car is pretty much unprotected if it starts to detonate. i'd only recommend that you bypass the detonation sensor as a temp fix until you can replace the faulty sensor or fix the open circuit.

well my laptop won't plug into your ecu, but you should still be able to do an ecu diagnostic using the flashing light on your ecu. there should be a tech article somewhere on here. otherwise you can test your o2 using a multimeter. you want your engine to be nice and warm, the voltage from the o2 sensor should be cycling 5-10 times every 10 seconds at 2000rpm when everything is at operating temp. other things to check would be the coolant temp sender (should be on the top coolant pipe). Sometimes the connector gets corroded and it interferes with the temp signal. when this happens your ecu may think your car is always running cold and it will richen up the fuel mix. also if your thermostat is stuck open your car will run too cold and your fuel economy will be shit. don't worry, i won't wreck your baby. I've pretty much had to redo most of the stuff on my car. when i got it i was getting about 200km/tank, had to fix up detonation sensor wiring, cleaned coolant temp sensor, replaced both o2's, fixed up all my vacuum leaks, replaced all the fuel lines, cleaned afm, cleaned throttle bodys, replaced blocked cats, new spark plugs, series 2 ptu, replaced air filter. I now get about 450km to a tank of normal driving and i can get 600km on the highway. Next week i'm pulling the plenum off and getting the injectors cleaned and flow tested and i'll replace all the o-rings and run new vacuum because that's all i have left to do.

well well well... i told you to get a zed Ric... Man I've got nissan datascan, shoot me a pm and we'll run your car on it and i can check out your o2's and everything else.... I finish up exams next week. I was gonna do a write up on fuel economy problems, but I'm not 100% familiar with skylines so I'll use your car a guinea pig. We'll go cruising soon. p.s. please tell me you bought a manual... edit: just saw that you have an SII, not 100% sure if my laptop will plug into an S2 33, I know it plugs into SI. I'll find out anyway

I wanted an AE86 back when I was looking for p-plater friendly cars, unfortunately the Takumi tax on them makes them too expensive for what they are. Pulsar SSS would be good. But depends on what your looking for ie. if you want a project car or a regular reliable daily driver. I have a NA Z32, not a common choice for p-platers as they can be pretty expensive to maintain if you get a bad one. It handles well, it's definately not gutless... makes around 120rwkw stock and has heaps of torque.

in addition if you have access to Nissan Consult or datascan you can check for error codes. things like coolant temp sensor or detonation sensor circuit errors can put the car into safety mode which means more fuel, retarded timing. how many km's are you getting to a tank of petrol if you drive normally?

i don't really know which is better but here's some pics: vg30dett in Z32: RB26 in Z32: rb engine is longer, the radiator was moved further forward so there's going to be more weight further forward, not sure about the weight difference between vg30 and rb26 either. but much more room to work

I see a girl driving a grey series 2 R33 gtst most mornings. I drive down stephensons rd towards monash clayton and she drives the opposite direction. Also see a white R33 gtst in mount waverley sometimes but haven't seen it for a little while now. and a grey R34 4dr sedan followed me into monash today

read this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Lo...ops-t13305.html

your photos are awesome! nice work. I'll get back to you about getting some enlarged.

oh ok then It'll leak when you do left turns. just assumed that skylines would be the same as the zed.

if it is the fuel filler seal you'll also get a fuel smell when you make hard right turns (fuel filler is on left). There's a couple of different sealers that I went through before I found one that worked. I tried Sikaflex 221, then loctite something. but these were soft setting so whenever I'd do up the petrol cap it'd turn the insert slightly until it eventually the seal broke. Then i bought selleys knead it, which is hard setting and i haven't had that problem since.

are you using all the shims behind the pads? i also used racebrakes, they've moved to yarraville now.

had a similar issue when a truck hit the camry. he provided all his details but refused to make a claim. so basically we took the car into the panel beater, panel beater fixed the car and then they got their lawyer to issue a letter of demand to the truck driver. this is basically a legal way of saying "pay up cheapskate or i'll see you in court". you shouldn't need to hire a lawyer, your panel beater will be able to take care of it if they do insurance work. also it always helps if you report the crash to the police as soon as it happens.

yeah paul said the same thing, it's nothing serious though which is why i kept driving. it's because the zed has pcv pickups on the passenger side cam cover so on hard right hand turns it picks up too much oil and it gets sucked into the plenum and smokes like a chimney... same thing happened at deca last feb but it was worse because the long wang was clockwise last time. not the best look when your driving around blowing smoke but my engine is actually very healthy compression-wise and doesn't burn a drop around town. i'm gonna change the pickups so that they're on the middle 2 cam covers when i get some time off uni and that will stop it from smoking next time

in the battle 2 vids of prpl 33 GTR vs 300zx, someone behind the camera goes "i never knew a slow car could do that"... haha thanks also i never realised that my na zed is loud enough to drown out a gtr from the other side of the skidpan hehe. nice vids btw Martin i'll definately come up to watch/help out at deca masters... will be an awesome event and it's always good to watch the faster cars. hopefully uni exams are over before november 15th deca so i can have another go.