Sandeep

studying mechanical eng at monash clayton and work part time at safeway liquor.

These are the only photo's i got, no action shots unfortunately. http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2525...mp;id=516052863

great day, thanks to all the people who organised it . i've got some pics that i'll upload, is it better for me to link to them or just post them? also, can anyone who saw my car tell me if my diff was open wheeling on the skidpan? need to get that pcv reroute going before next time and also coilpack connectors because i dropped a cylinder on the first skidpan track and had to idle my way around the track. special thanks to the people that let me sit with them on the skidpan, never been in a 33 gtr before and i got to ride in 3 different ones today which was cool. cya'z next time.

thanks

just incase I'm forgetting something, is there any more paperwork that I need to bring on the day? All i'm bringing is my cams licence book/passport thingy, skylines australia membership card and the copy of the maps and stuff... do i need anything else? last time i went up there was a piece of paper that i needed to get signed off by the scrutineer, is that something I collect on the day from the office?

ok i'll let him know. thanks bec

Is this open to people who aren't members of SAU VIC? My friend is interested in competing in his s13 but he's not a SAU VIC member.

ok that sounds good. so corner of warrigal and princess hwy at 5.30? will i need an etag or daypass?

I'll be there. Is this the one on the corner of donnybrook rd and hume?

courses look interesting... hope i can memorise them in time. anyone else driving up saturday morning? I'm going from SE suburbs.

is that 450km of highway driving or just normal suburban driving? if it's just 450km of suburban stop/start driving then it's not too bad... I've fixed alot of stuff on my car and I just did a cruise yesterday and got 600km from my tank (10L/100km) and could get about 700km if I do only highway driving. Don't get an SAFC until you're 100% sure that any problems are fixed... tuning over the top of problems isn't a good idea and you'll get better results if you're 100% sure your car is upto spec. Usually the problems that cause poor fuel economy are just sensor related, it's just a case of tracking down the sensor that is playing up and fixing it.

i don't have a fax so i just emailed it to the sau motorsport email and attached all the forms. Hope that's alright.

I had the same problem when i bought my car, didn't come with the locknut key. Went down to bob jane in chadstone and they tried out a few different keys until one fit and they removed the nuts for me.

hks make hipermax-drag http://www.piaa.com.au/prod535.htm low spring rates high front compression and rear rebound damping, stops car from nose-diving when you change gears low rear compression and front rebound damping helps car squat

you've probably got an error code or a faulty/slow o2 sensor. you can test your o2 sensor using a multimeter or if you have access to consult/datascan then you can use your laptop.

federal 595rs or falken azenis rt615 seem to get good reviews... treadwear rating is like 180-200 for both so not too low. also they'll disperse water better which is good for a street car.

check all your fuel lines for leaks, inside the engine bay and also under the car. If you have access to consult/datascan you could check for error codes, the main codes to watch for are coolant temp sender, detonation sensor circuit and o2's.

if you've got extractors and catback then why not finish up the exhaust with a mid section/front pipe and high flow cat. then you can go lighter tailshaft, lighter flywheel, larger throttle body and intake piping, better spark plugs and coilpacks etc honestly though, i'd spend the money on upgrading brakes and suspension. I've done all my brake and suspension upgrades and I can tell you that every dollar i spent on braking and suspension mods was welll worth it. I haven't bothered spending too much money on the engine yet (already have frontpipe/metalcat/catback, lighter tailshaft and pod) because I couldn't really justify the kw gain/dollar. Whereas now my car can carry alot more speed through turns and also I can wipe off speed faster so my car should be faster even though I've still got the same power.

spotted "DRPHIL" a few weeks back in my work car park. think it was a white (maybe silver) 33, can't really remember. also spotted a black 32 that looks like rekin's disp pic at monash uni eng car park.

does anyone sell boost leak testers for skyline intake piping? I bought one for my zed, basically you remove your afm and the boost leak tester fits into the piping, it's got a tyre valve and a pressure guage on it. then you hook it upto a compressor and pump air into the intake and listen for leaks. when the pressure guage actually stays steady then you know there's no leaks. you'll be suprised at how many leaks you can find, when i first did the test the pressure guage didn't move, had to tighten just about every clamp in the intake and now it holds 5psi and no leaks. mine cost $50, easily payed for itself in saved petrol $$ heres a pic: it's made by these guys: http://boostpro.net/prodtester.html and is distributed by Caz at www.cazracing.com.au

I use a jack on the crossmember and diff and then use the stands on the chassis rails. i always leave the trolley jack inplace and put the wheels underneath as well, just to be safe.

take pads out and try using the grease on the back, also grease the shims. did you get your rotors machined when you changed the pads? they may have glazed up.

retarding the timing on stock ecu would require a remap/ecu socket with a new chip written with your tune are you actually pinging? you can bypass the sensor with a resistor (i think 1 mega ohm is what's used on the z32's) so that the fault code will no longer come up but it's not safe if you are actually pinging. most people who are running safe mods can get away with bypassing the sensor as stock fuel maps are rich. check out these links for info on bypassing detonation sensor (z32 specific, might apply to r32 also) http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugi...php?content.429 http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugi...php?content.305

Hey Bec, is the wrx club taking entires for the april deca day yet? also, got my cams invoice last week. just waiting for them to send the licence out now. thanks for handling that for me.

I get my coolant changed once a year, just before summer. If you changed yours 30,000km ago, maybe try a full flush. Always best to start simple. Also get a pressure test done on the system to see if you have any leaks and if you have time pull off your front bar and clean up leaves/crap that's infront of your radiator. If that doesn't fix it, I'd be looking at the thermostat (replace) or maybe a clogged radiator (flush/rod).