RB32

guys the car is at the mechanics now and everything seemed fine until they checked the safc and ecu connections the safc has been installed wrong and that it mustve burnt out a connection. they disconected the safc and it got started but something is trigging it off. (damaged safc,ECU,etc) Im hoping that whatever has happend hasnt affected the ecu because im not really up for a new one. There going to run more tests on it on monday and tell me the whole story. cheers. adrian

does anyone know if the ignition module on a r32 gts-t 93 model is the same as the one on a series 2 r33 gts-t cheers...

well im headin towards it being the ingition module and yes it has been raining in melbourne. i havent checkd AFM but i can do. What should i look out for when checking? cheers....

when i crank it it starts clickin n sometimes it will start then die off 2 secs later or it will just click and not even start at all. the 2 main connections on the ignition module seem to be rather clean so im wondering if its the actual pack itself (module)

hey guys i own a nissan skyline 93 mod rb20 i went to start the car to leave work 2day and it would not start for some reason we thought it was the battery so we tryed jump starting it and even swappin over batteries but still no go. RACV came out and had a look and at first they thought it was a dead fuel pump. But after taking off the fuel lines and testing it fuel seemed to be pissing out when trying to start the car so he now thinks that its got something to do with the electrical connections. Ignition module maybe. has any1 expeirenced this or know anything of it help would be appreciated as the car has been towed back to my house. cheers adrian ......

hey buddy am intersted and located in melbourne could u list exactly what comes with this FMIC kit for a 32 gts-t and if you know what sort of power (rwkw) its able to hold. cheers...

hmm fair i might have a look. im also waiting on my mate to see if he can hook me up with any piping for the gtr fmic. thanx anyway guys..

how much do the BLITZ FMIC go for full kit. anywhere in particular i should look. cheers

yeh i guess so, the majority seem to like the just jap ones. my mate that is installing it says he has an r32 gtr aftermarket one (brand new) id he can find piping kits for it i might get him 2 chuk that on cheers

dont really want to start conflict but if its the 300 just jap ones ppl have told me 2 stay away so now thats always in the back of my head even though great results have come out from them. with the 34 sidemount is that considered as an easy fit and also what would the price be for the cooler and pipes. in regards to the greddy vspec would that be just overkill for the power im after?? cheers

hey guys im a little stuck as to what FMIC i should fit on my 32 gts-t i have mate that can install the FMIC on so labour cost wont be a big deal. Should i look for a second hand or aftermarket R32 gtr FMIC and fit that or should i go for a greddy trust V spec cooler supplied and fitted for $800. im only looking for anything around 200rwkw so im just wondering if im cuttin corners goin for the gtr one and loosing performance compared to the greddy V spec OR will the greddy cooler be a waste of money reason being that its designed for alot more power than 200rwkw. cheers guys...

well i got my safc tuned 2day and this is what came up: Mods: -turboback exhaust with hiflow cat -pod filter -turbotech boost controller at 10psi -SAFC Before: max power: 130.1rwkw @ 6324 RPM max torque: 506.7Nm @ 5497 RPM max M.A.P kPa: 179.9kPa @4141 RPM After: max power: 137.2rwkw @6344 RPM max torque: 538 Nm @5082 RPM max M.A.P kPa: 177.7kPa @3792 RPM he said that i gained 7 rwkw just from the SAFC and without touchin the boost for safe reasons. He didnt want 2 up the boost because i still had the factory cooler. Would u guys say that this was a successful tune or not? also.... if i decide to get a FMIC and up the boost will i need another tune or will it be ok? cheers guys...

i checked under under the dash and found the black box. i turned the screw both ways (max and min) but still sensitive. anything else i can do. cheers adrian....

the reason y i bought one was because it was hesitating and it missfired so i was told to get an SAFC. after gapping pluygs at .8mm everything seems well. i had a read on a few threads on here about tuning the safc n most ppl say they gain anywhere between 13 and 25rwkw with the correct tune. the more the better i guess

so your saying i shouldve paid 600 for a dr drift remap. im better off buying a pfc arnt i. At the moment im not up for massive gains just yet so ill see how it all goes.

yeah ive booked it in for next saturday. $164 to tune the car aswell as the SAFC ill c how she goes then. cheers....

hey i had the exact same problem when i bought my 32. It had a cat back exhaust and pod. when i installed the turbotech manual boost controller it started to hesitate in 2nd between 4000 and 6000. if your spark plugs are old replace them with standard NGK ones (BCPR7ES-1.1) and gap them to .8mm that just could be your problem. aslo while your at it check your coilpacks for any hairline cracks.

cheers looks like ill have to wait....

hey guys i have an rb20 with the following mods: -turboback exhaust (Hiflow cat) -Pod filter -turbotech boost controller at .7bar -SAFC i had the SAFC installed by a mate but i dont have an airflow guage to tell me weather its running rich or lean. The settings at the moment are as standard but i was just wondering if someone could post there settings up because i will be getting a tune in the next couple weeks. cheers adrian...

sorry but where abouts would this sensor be exactly. are you talkin about the one that opens n closes the bonnet at the front. cheers..

hey guys i have an alarm system that was installed before i bought the car and i was just wondering if any1 knew how to adjust the sensitivity on these things. It has MAGICAR written on it. At some stages even high winds or trees blowing near the car will set it off. Cheers Adrian.....

hey guys well ive finised gappin my NGK BCRP7ES from .9mm to .8mm i checked my coilpacks and i didnt seem to find any cracks. i also pulled the rubber boot off and took the spring out and that copper bit seemed to be fairly clean. Just took it for a quick drive and everything seems pretty good Didnt feel any hesitation at all. ill see how she goes in the next few days if shes still good and if she is well then your plugs should be gapped at .8mm with the turbotech controller. just another thing to keep in mind because it has worked for me for now. Cheers for the help fellows.....

in the 22$ boost controller forum they discuss the performance of the turbotech controller with a hole at the top ( i think pg 68 or 69 shows a pic) the whole being anywhere from 1 - 1.5 mm big

im in the proccess of changing spark plus and i noticed i have a split in one of the black hose lines. Not not to familiar what everthing is called but ill try 2 explain it. its a U shaped hose roughly 15mm in diameter and goes over that black rocker valley cover. directly in the middle. any idea what im talking about or if that split hose could be causing hesitation cheers guys.

yeh mine came without the hole so i drilled 1 in there like every1 else was doing i also had a greedy trust manual boost controller. still the same so im guessing the problem is elswhere. the turbotech i have isnt too bad i think. doesnt spike at all