rb26zed

Really depends on the kid. I would have taken him earlier but this is my first time aswell, as I live in Brisbane. I've taken my boy to various motorsport events including drifts, sprints and drags and he enjoyed them all. I started with the Winternationals when he was about 2. He loved the top fuel cars. It's not really what the event is that matters so much for the age to take them, it's more about at what age you would feel comfortable taking him somewhere that you have be there for the whole day or days and keep the kid entertained enough throughout. Kids vary greatly in that regard. I think from 4 onwards would be a good age for most kids who have a bit of an interest in motorsports and have been to a few shorter local events beforehand.

My boy is 8 and I'm taking him this year, prices were $400 for me and $99 for the boy for the 4 day weekend in the Prost stand.

Yahoo auctions mate. I use Importmonster as they are easy and reliable. There are plenty of new c130 indicators on there, I got a set a while ago. They aren't very expensive. There's 2 sets of chrome hotplates on there right now. Good set are $1000 plus shipping and taxes etc. Will come to around $1500 total. Other set are not in as good condition but are $600 plus. Probably be close to $1000 landed. I paid around $800 landed about 2 years ago, prices are only going up. The other bits can be found there too, but you may get them here off a member if you're lucky.

What offset are they? Definitely interested.

It's looking very nice so far. Congrats.

You are right, I couldn't find any info on any of this when I was looking either. This info should be useful to somebody in the future.

Was this using mr30 trailing arms? or hr30? I'm also assuming you're talking about a factory viscous LSD too? Viscous LSD's are mostly old and worn out now anyway, so I wouldn't bother with one. But I can't see the oil seal problem being a costly issue. Was it possible to use the short nose seal in the long nose housing, to match the short nose flanges? If not, then turning up a pair of new oil seal rings for the short nose flanges shouldn't cost much. My local machinists would charge $50 or less for that. If you are using mr30 trailing arms you will need to change the flange on there to match the larger cv's, either 4 bolt hr30 or make a 5 or 6 bolt one to match short nose cv's. Then use 4 x inner cv's with the appropriate flange on either hr30, z31 or custom shafts. My conclusion is that it is possible with a bit of mucking around but only worth it for the right LSD center, I wouldn't bother with a viscous for any diff.

The pathfinder short side stub axle can be useful because it is a solid circle, unlike other R200 stubs, so it can be modified by drilling and tapping. However Pathfinders use the bolt in style not the circlip style. To get around this you either need to use the threaded spider gear from the center of the Pathfinder diff inside your LSD, which can be done but requires complete disassembly of both diff centers. Or you need to modify the bolt in style stub to be circlip style. This is much more difficult as you need to add an extra inch to the stub essentially. This can be done, as I have had it done to my R180. I had the extra length of stub axle cut from the end of a circlip style R180 stub axle, an S13 R180, and had it drilled and tapped to bolt to the end of the bolt in stub from a Navara R180. This was necessary for me to use a 720 R180 with an S13 R180 LSD center which has 27 splines (like subaru). Because the S13 stub's flange sticks out from the diff about 1 1/2" further than the flush Navara/Pathfinder stubs. I needed this extra clearance so that I could retain the stock axle shaft and not have to shorten it. My setup goes like this, 720 R180 longnose with an S13 Tomei LSD 2 way with 2 x Navara (short side) bolt in stub axles modified to be circlip style. The shafts are R30 with R30 cv's on the outside and S13 cv's on the diff side. This is in an R30 cradle with R30 trailing arms. To do this with yours you will need, 2 x Pathfinder/Navara/Terrano short side stub axles. The short and long sides are blatantly obvious once you see the diff, short side is ~4" long, long side is ~2 feet. These 4wd's can have either an R180 or R200 in the front. The back plate dimensions are the same as regular RWD ones so use this to determine if it is an R200 or not. You will also need 2 x R200 circlip style stubs. Then you could drill and tap them to suit the Porsche cv's. But this will require custom axle shafts. If you can get these parts cheap enough it could be worth doing it this way. Porsche cv's sell for around $450 for a set of 4 chinese ones or $850 for German ones. It would be cheaper to use new Nissan cv's and not need custom axle shafts though. Personally I would talk to a decent driveshaft shop about what cv's could be made work easiest with the least amount of modification. Show them your flange options and see what will work with them.

Those allen key bolts are to hold the cv together and to bolt to the flanges. It looks to me that they have made a flange ,or possibly modified an original, for the wheel end. And the diff end looks like they are using a flanged stub axle, like later short nose r200's use. They have either had one custom made or are using modified ones from a different r200, possibly the stub axle from the short side of a Pathfinder front diff, which are usually r200's. My best guess would be that both flanges are custom made though.

Those are porche cv's. There doesn't appear to be any companion flanges either so I would say that is a custom porche cv conversion.

I believe then only differences between any of them are the crownwheel bolt sizes, which can be easily rectified with sleeves, and the position of the half shaft circlips. My best guess would be that the circlip positions would be the same between those 2 models, so the crownwheel bolt sizes would be the only difference I would think. This can be sleeved easily enough.

No, Not really, Just age related wear and tear, Not much, Most info you seek is either in these forums or just ask the right questions and someone will usually know. Try to be a little more specific and add photos when you can.

I don't think that is right Dennis. Pretty sure the bolt patterns are the same, so long as you're comparing 2 to 2 bolt. Of course there is also a 4 bolt short nose R200 back plate also, but the back plates are interchangeable anyway. You can also re-drill the mount holes if that helps.

Is this a diesel LD28 crank? You can get a whole L28 for $500 or less

No, pretty close to being exactly the same, around 1360kg. 2 seater 280zx is lighter than 4 seater and '31, around 1280kg.

I have heard of the Porche cv conversion a lot. Seems pretty common, so I would assume that it shouldn't be too pricey. I don't believe they are actually Porche cv's, just cv's made by someone that are used in Porches and probably other cars also. Honestly I don't think the brand would matter too much. Just get decent sized cv's that are common enough to be rebuilt easily and cheaply. Make sure they are ball and race style like your 4 and 5 bolt Nissan cv's. These can withstand greater shaft angles than the tripod style (6x2). I believe both the Porche and the Holden cv's are the 6 ball and race style and are both large enough. If you have already improved your diff mounting position and camber angles too get your shafts at better angles then It's probably not actually causing your premature shaft wear. It's quite likely that you are just using tired 2nd hand parts that have already seen 25 years of abuse and high angles, and you are just the straw that keeps breaking the camels back. Either way It would be peace of mind for the future if you upgrade to a newer cv. For those that don't know the difference, Here is a pic of a tripod style ..and 2 pics of a 6 ball and race style, ie; 4 and 5 bolt Nissan These are considered to be stronger and able to withstand greater shaft angles than the tripod style.

I'm no expert but I don't think power or use are your problem. These shafts are generally not a problem for big hp cars being abused. What kills these cv's mostly is exaggerated shaft angles as a result of lowering. So upgrading to anything, including GTR or even custom shafts is probably not going to eliminate your problems. I would be looking at ways of raising your diff and keeping your axle angles straighter. This will reduce your wear rate somewhat and should increase the life of stock shafts whatever model combo you choose. You can run the larger 6 bolt shafts from the GTR and 300zxtt if you run the 6 bolt stub shafts that go in the diff, but like you say you will need to use an LSD center for a GTR because of the larger 31 spline stub shafts. But then the GTR axles will be too long and will need to be either shortened (~$400) or custom ones made (~$500) plus of course the cost of a new LSD center. But personally I wouldn't be spending money on converting to stock 2nd hand parts, even GTR. Spend it on converting to good brand new parts as I said before.

Sorry I wasn't clear mate, the tripod style (6x2) are the weaker ones, the 5 ball race style (4 & 5 bolt) are the stronger ones. What you need to do is get the inner race, the part that slips onto the axle shaft, from any 5 bolt cv from '32 Skylines onwards. This should fit your cv but will be very tight getting it on your axle. It's so tight I would call it a once only job. Put it on once and only remove it if absolutely necessary. It is the cheap fix option though, so just be aware of that. If you need to do them again though, I would be looking at a custom set using readily available parts. You don't have to use Holden cv's, they were just suggested by the shop as they are cheap, readily available and will more than easily withstand the power and use. Any brand cv could be made work in reality. DR30 and HR31 4 bolt cv's should be the same. Not sure why you found differences.

I believe the DR30 4 bolt type and the 32 skyline onwards type are essentially the same with a couple of minor variations. So it is possible to use parts of one to repair another. Obviously the main cup is different as one has a 4 bolt flange and the other a 5 bolt flange, so if this part is worn then there is not much you can do. But the the balls and inner ball race that slips on the axle are close enough. The axle splines changed profile slightly between the early 30/31 4 bolt type and the later type, but they can be interchanged. I have used z31 4 bolt shafts in r33 cv's in my zed and they work. Z31, DR30 and HR31 4 bolt axles are all the same. The slightly different spline profiles made them very tight to get into the r33 cv, but this swap is reasonably common in the USA. As a reference, I was quoted $800 to have a pair of custom shafts made complete with brand new Holden cv's. The shafts were about $400, so that's about $400 for the 4 cv's. Rebuilds would be easier and cheaper afterwards. Something to think about. The 6 bolt (3x2) use the tripod style cv while the 4 and 5 bolt use the 5 ball race style cv. So yes they are kind of stronger in the sense that they can withstand greater misalignment angles than the tripod style and wear less as a result. But beware that some 5 bolt cv's can use the tripod style cv. They look identical from the outside though. So be specific and use part numbers when ordering. The 6 bolt from GTR's and 300zxTT are different again.

Rules state you must have a price.

Price?

NISMO; Some companies offer a packaging service along with freight, I believe Pack and Send do this as do others. I have never used Pack and Send though. Had quotes but they are expensive. The condition of the wheels and what they were worth would dictate how you would need them packed. I had a few set of wheels sent from Otomoto in VIC to QLD through TNT that were in boxes with a little bit of foam around them that arrived in perfect condition. But personally I would have the boxes chocked as full as possible with foam etc just to be safe. I have used Air Road Direct and TNT, both without any drama. I had a mate who worked for TNT though who got my stuff sent on a large customers invoice, so it cost a lot less and may have been treated better (probably not though, more likely just luck). Greyhound freight seems well priced, but I haven't used them as yet. If you are not a company with an account I would definitely not use TNT though. I have heard many, many stories from my mates who worked there so know better. It has been said here before, but transport companies are full of low paid workers and arsehole bosses. There are a lot of short term labour hire and casual workers. The result is obviously a workforce that doesn't care and often hates their jobs. Everyone from the courier that picks up your parcel to the dock hands at the depots to the B-Double driver are underpaid and ridden by overpaid and under-qualified bosses. I have worked in the industry myself, not any more though and never again. It's a cut throat industry that runs on extremely tight margins, and the ever so small amount of profit being made is not seen by anyone who actually handles your freight. Sending freight in Australia is a gamble. Chuck a dart at a phone book and cross your fingers tbh.

What's your location? Around $3-400 together.

Should be back on the road within 2 months. The extra stuff will just come when it comes. Got her a little present though.

The real issue with vitamin tablets is that there is absolutely NO evidence that any vitamins are actually absorbed by your body. Vitamins have been around for a long time being made and sold by very big companies. There has been ample opportunity for proper trials to be done. There have been studies that showed NO benefit, but none have ever been released showing they work. Of course these multi-million dollar companies have trialled them, they just don't get the results they claim so the trials never get released. It doesn't matter how much or how little of anything they actually have in them, your body simply does not absorb vitamins ingested through tablets. High-vis piss is what pissing away money looks like. If you are lacking in anything improve your diet to include foods that contain what you are lacking. The best insurance policy is a healthy diet.