rb26zed

umm, yeah bro?

Stupid error message

I found it funny that you used that pic as a reply when I thought it pretty much summed up my thoughts on every post you made in this thread.

If I had the time I would get it rebuilt but I need the car back on the road by Monday morning to get to work. Plus I don't really want to waste too much money on things that will just be coming off next year anyway.

Thanks Dennis, I got hold of a second hand C210 one for $20. If it doesn't turn out ok then I'll just get it rebuilt.

Cheapest. I'm upgrading the brakes next year and will probably put a different master and booster on then. For now I just want it on the road asap. What is a general price to have one rebuilt?

My brake booster has sprung a leak on my C210 coupe. What is the quickest, simplest and cheapest way of fixing it? I would think replacing it with a second hand one would be the answer but as these are not very common what would be the most common datsun that shares the same booster?

Factory ones are expensive. I bought my fake ones off ebay for around $30 posted for the set. tee_n_tee is the seller, they come from Kuwait.

Have you got the ooupe rear window seals or the windows with seals?

Thanks, I'll try gluing it up over the weekend and see how it turns out.

That's the problem with mine, won't pass RWC with a twisty grip.

I don't think 31's fit. Wreckers around here are pretty crap. The nissan section seems to be closest to the crusher, so they are first crushed and don't last long.

Wanted to buy - R30 steering wheel asap. Need one for a RWC. My interior is Blue, so would prefer grey, but would be happy with any colour just to get it on the road. Will pay postage to Brisbane from anywhere in Aus. Or one from another model that fits and works with minimal work. I believe R30's are the old larger spline, same as Datsuns etc, R31 onwards changed to the smaller spline.

Can't really comment on it being legal or not as my car is track only, but I would be fairly sure you will need an engineers certificate for it to pass roadworthy. You will almost definitely have to cut away some metal, so that will require one, and the lights themselves being different probably will too. Not sure of cost but they should be fairly cheap, they are pretty common. Measure a set 1st to make sure they can even be made fit and if they look like they can then go buy them. At a guess they should be less than $50, personally I wouldn't be paying more than $20. I am assuming you're talking about aussie spec ones not import. If you would like to see some pics of how I done mine then pm me your phone number and I will send them to you.

Go buy a set, or go to a wrecker and measure them. If you are serious about doing this you will be better off having a set there so you can physically hold them against your car. This will help give you a better idea on how they will look and if they can be made fit. I have put a set of 240k coupe hotplates in my 240z, so I understand where you're coming from. It's not an overly difficult job for someone who is handy with a few power tools. I cut a large hole for the lights to clear then made up a 1 piece bracket to mount each light on (for each side) then welded it in place. Good luck, hope it turns out well.

Sure, many of us have probably had unexpected wheelspin with some reacting rightly and most wrongly. Yes, you may be "used" to FWD's and extremely inexperienced in RWD's. Maybe you had bald tires, too much pressure or even the wrong gear. But I don't think any of these things are the real problem. My problem with your post is your complete lack of understanding of how a car behaves, especially after 10 years driving experience. There are many people, probably most people, who don't know what to do when thier car gets out of shape. But you don't even know why you got out of shape in the first place. A defensive driving course would help you learn how to handle a car when it's out of shape, but you need to get a handle of the basics to understand how not to get out of shape in the first place. After 10 years "experience" though, I would have thought you would fully understand this by now. It may simply be beyond you. Sell the skyline and get the lowest powered buzz box you can get with the highest level of safety features and electronic stability systems. Any car with more than 100kw at the fly is not for you.

He is just proof of how bad our licencing system really is. It is funny until I remember this clown is driving on the same roads as me and my kids. OP, you clearly don't have a handle of even the most basic driving skills, hand your licence back and learn to drive before you kill someone.

Ad says with dish, so where is it?

You shouldn't have been given a licence.

PM'd you about the axles.

Are the axles ok. I'm after the long one. Not sure which side it's from as I don't have a skyline. I don't care about the cv's just want the axle shaft itself.

A guarantee from an oil company wouldn't be worth the paper it's printed on. Only a naive fool would trust bullshit from the bullshit experts.

If yours and the Greddy one both have the 2 large bolts then yes they are the same.

If it's mainly street driven 4.3's would be best. If you want shorter than 4.375 you can get a 4.6 or even 4.8. The easiest to find are out of the front of a 90's v6 Pathfinder, Navara, Terrano etc. The housing is useless but you can use the crown and pinion in your housing. If you go down this path the ratio is stamped on the build plate. It will have an axle code eg; CA46 is 4.6. PM me if you want more info. Are you putting a stock viscous lsd in? If so don't forget the stub shafts that go in the diff. You will need one of the long viscous ones. If you need a viscous lsd or long shaft PM me as I have a few. I'm in QLD. Personally I would try getting something better if your going to all this trouble as most viscous lsd's are pretty old and past it by now. They may 2 up with some mild use but once pushed a bit will just 1 wheel.

He mentioned the parts you guys asked about, like the rear vision mirror and bumper ends etc. They were'nt in fantastic cond but were ok. I think he wants to take some photos and post them up to let you decide if you definitely want them. I hadn't met him before yesterday, but I have his number so I'll send him an sms to let him know. I'll answer a few of your questions based on what I saw though. Front bumper was in ok cond, bit of surface rust and a minor dent (pretty small) end pieces were there and in ok cond. No console though. Bonnet was pretty much stuffed beyond repair, very heavyily rusted. Nightmonkey, the metal behind the rear wheels was fairly rusted, probably not worth taking. Ricky, rear view mirror was a little faded with that crusty layer that plastic in the sun for 30 years gets, but otherwise not bad, assuming you want it because you don't have one it would definitely be worth getting I think. Dizzy and a few engine ancilliaries looked good.