rb26zed

Picked up a towbar, front grill, lights and surrounds, rear control arms, bonnet and p/s pump from Shaune yesterday. Great guy to deal with and would buy from him again. There's still a few good parts left. Most body work is very rusted but most chrome trim is in good cond and still there. Few other bits and pieces still there too.

Where are you located? Pm sent in regards to rear control arms and bonnet.

Sorry, I'm not interested in buying your engine, but I am curious as to how someone spends the time, effort and of course money to build a $22000, 1000hp engine, drives it 1500km then suddenly needs to sell it at a huge loss.

That's pretty pricey. There would be less than an hours labour, $20 worth of materials, plus the plug, tongue and ball. $400 would leave a huge profit. Even though, a $50 tow bar plus postage from an eastern state to W.A. would add up. R30's in wreckers are getting few and far between, finding one let alone one with a tow bar could take quite a while. If you have no luck finding one second hand shop around for a custom one, surely someone would charge a something a little more reasonable like $250.

Can't you just go to a tow bar shop and have one made? They're a pretty simple thing, can't imagine It'd be too hard to have one made.

Did you seriously send a long nose r200 4.375 diff with half shafts and disc brakes to the scrapyard?

My local wreckers asks $800 for these. I think that's pretty steep though, $500 tops for a good condition runner. Yours does look a bit rough, so maybe $250.

Actually most factory cars are not exactly the same. I haven't looked at an r33 but I doubt it would be either. It's not a priority for normal street cars, just improves things when on the track. You don't need it to be exact just as close as possible, at the very least as close or closer than factory. Shouldn't be too hard to find a suitable length rack. Just go down to the wreckers with a measuring tape. You can redrill your inner LCA mount holes if you need to.

After a c210 bonnet, Prefferably within a few hours drive of Brisbane, but will look into postage if interstate.

Another option you could look at is using your original r30 x-member and welding on rack mounts. You could either just cut each rack mount off your r33 x-member and weld them on or cut the entire middle section from both and swap them. Using a jig ofcourse to keep everything straight. Try to find a suitable rack that has as close as possible the same length pivot to pivot as the spacing of your inner LCA mounts on your x-member.

PM sent

This statement just shows how little you actually know about the system.

Lol Ghostrider, I was going to suggest that but thought it was a little harsh. But It's probably more accurate. Honestly if I bought it the 1st things to go on ebay would be the wheels, tail lights, webers and stereo. So they aren't really of much value. It's a nice clean stock example, nothing more. Colour is ugly so needs a paintjob too, so I can see $4000 to someone who is after a stock c210 coupe and nothing else. But to a non-enthusiest $2500 tops.

Yes. I informed him he had made a typo and had a 1 on the front of both his prices. But he seriously thinks it's worth that much. lol. He will need a serious reality check if he wants to actually sell it.

If all things are kept the same except the ratio then yes it will get a little heavier, but that is very easily rectified with changes to the power system. I doubt he is going to get a rack that is more than half a turn less than the standard one, so I was just keeping it simple rather than explaining complicated details that he is most likely not interested in. Changing from his current rack to one a little better from another model of car is the simplest solution and won't affect steering weight enough for you to worry about. In my opinion the skyline, like most modern cars, has steering that is far too light. Making it a little heavier would be a good thing. It is possible to do what you want if you find a rack with the ratio you like. If you do the work properly or get a professional to do it you should be able to keep it looking like factory, which is the next best thing to it being legal. Done properly an engineer may even give it the all clear. Things to look for are keeping the pivot points on each side of the rack as close as possible to original, or ideally in line with the lower control arm inner pivot point. Then finding/making tie rods the right length that suit both the rack and the hub. I suppose it depends how much you want this, and how much you're willing to spend to get it done. Definitely do-able. Possibly not too expensive either if you're lucky enough to find a rack that suits with very little mods needed. But if new mounts need to be welded to your crossmember, new parts need to be machined to get the pivot points right and custom tie rods are needed then it could get expensive.

You can get low ratio racks but not skyline specific. I have a 1.25 turns lock to lock power rack in my 240z, but this is a total custom job. Could be done in a skyline but would be difficult, expensive and illegal. You could try searching other models of cars to find lower ratios. Unfortunately most cars are fairly similar to the skyline if not worse, so finding a better ratio would be rare. There would definitely be cars with better though, so it could be worth the look. The racks from the BMW and 370z would quite likely go into a skyline with some mods. Does a 350z feel as good as a 370z? 350z racks would be cheaper and easier to find. Also the ratio has little to no effect on steering weight, this is controlled by the power system used.

A 2.6 is really 2.57, 1mm o/s takes it to 2.63, 2mm o/s takes it to 2.69.

I doubt that an entirely new diff type was designed and built for only 1 car with only 2 ratios. So I would assume that if it is in fact a 160 there should be other short nose 160's found in something, somewhere. Long nose 160's and 180's have been around for more than 40 years. They are found in Nissans and Subarus. They are largely interchangeable with minor differences that can be overcome. Short nose 180's and 200's have been around for 25 years plus too. Most of the minor differences can be overcome also. These diffs are made by Hitachi not Nissan, so they are possibly found in other makes. Short nose 160's would have to be available from something else, imo. I could be wrong though.

Like I said I have not done it and never will, but I have always been told the front diff was an R180 in the GTR and GTS4. I have seen references to the F160 which does put some doubt over it. If someone has an R180 and a front sump from a 4wd skyline measure them both. That will clear it up. I have never seen or heard of any short nose R160 diff though, so if it is in fact an R160 there would possibly be no other ratios available.

SCAM. I've had quite a few of these. They are all scams. It doesn't matter what they say, they are always scams. Somewhere along the line you will be asked to go to a link in thier email and enter your information. Usually paypal info, but the link will be fake. There are other ways they use too, so don't trust them ever. They do get your hopes up but unfortunatey they are ALL scams. Other stories include, being a worker on an oil rig or miner on the opposite side of the country etc. Obvious give aways are bad english, paypal and shipping agents. They are always vague about your item and never refer to it as what it is. Anyway mate you have a nice car that will sell soon enough. These are a rare car that appeal to a small number of enthusiests. It may take a little longer but it will sell. If you had it for sale 6 months ago I would have been interested myself but unfortunately I have already bought one. I would have preferred yours though if it's any consolation. Good luck with the sale, but this is a definite SCAM.

Just a bit of info for those who want to do this. The front diff in a GTR or GTS4 is an r180 short nose. This is the same diff as many nissans incuding n/a s13's, terrano front, pathfinder front, navara front, pulsar gtir rear to name a few. They aren't always r180's so check first as some are r200 depending on model etc. I have not done this and won't be as I don't have a 4wd nissan. But in theory you should be able to use the insides from any short nose r180 in your sump. This will make matching ratios easier and open up more available ratios. An exampe would be using the insides (crown wheel and pinion) from a mid '80's Navara, this is an r180. You could then use the insides from an r200 from the front of a terrano for the rear. Giving you a 4.6 ratio. These 4wd's have a number of ratio's and a number of diff combos. Ratios are 4.3, 4.6 and 4.8 but there may be others too. Navara and Terrano/Pathfinder front diffs can be r180's or r200's.

You can spend 20k on anything and get poor results if you make bad decisions. 20k on an NA RB should easily be around if not over 300hp. The point is this is not a turbo vz NA thread. It's an NA thread in the NA section. Stop talking about turbos in it. And Jonno yes I have been driving the NA far too much and for far too long, lol, turbos are money pits too. Sensible decisions are left at the door when you are into modified cars. My advice is waste your money making your NA go faster, have fun and learn lots. Then when you're finished your P's sell it at a loss and waste your money on a turbo.

I did read that and yes you do often give some useful info, but not before you spin the same old turbo crap that this NA section is full of. Please don't patronise me mate. Give NA advice but leave the turbo crap in the turbo section. For the record I have both a turbo and an NA.

It's been said too many times. Nobody cares. If your answer is turbo then really your help is not wanted. "We are trying to help people not waste thousands of $$ for a handful of horsepower" There are many reasons people would want to NA over turbo. Not everyone wants 600hp. NA's sound cool, they have old school appeal, they 'fit' better in certain cars, they can be easier to modify without being too obvious (sometimes). Those are just a few reasons. Honestly why are you here anyway, you have 2 toyotas and believe turbos are the answer to every problem. Yet here you are as always patrolling the NA skyline section.

Why does every thread in the NA section have somebody repeat for the millionth time how NA's are not value for money and that a turbo will make far more power for less money. Everybody knows this and are really sick of reading about turbos in the NA section. People post in the NA section for a reason. If your answer to every question is to turbo and not waste your money with NA's maybe you're in the wrong section.