shinaka

I do these myself by: 1) Removing the manifold and other obstructions in the engine bay 2) Use a center punch to carefully mark the center of the stud with a hammer 3) Use a small drill with a 1/8" or so titanim bit and CAREFULLY, SLOWLY and STEADILY drill completely through(about 3/8" distance) the center of the stud. Make sure bit is aligned and is center. AVOID breaking bit and its ok if the hole is slightly off. 4) Use a slightly larger diameter bit and drill about half way or more(same rule as above) 5) Carefully use the largest diameter stud remover that will hold(one like drillbit that locks by turning anti clockwise)with hand turn. Stud should turn out. 6) Cleanup and replace. Old non-broken studs can be replaced also using two nuts to lock and turn out. Hope it helps..

Found myself in this situation too. Any answer?

This is why I keep asking if its interference because over internet some are saying all rb's are interference and others that rb20det is non interference... Are you sure rb20det is non interference?

costly lesson for me using the wrong water pump which shredded new timing belt and destroyed engine ...

Just shredded my rb20det timing belt and wondering if I have to worry about bent valves...anyone

The rb internals can take 300kw, but, with regards to the rb20 head, wouldn't an intake cam with longer duration help? The redtop rb20cam has a longer duration than silvertop at 248 vs 240. Can this be a cheap upgrade?

Could be as simple as an electrical short in the AFM wire and plug.. Try playing with the AFM wire and plug while idling... Any consistant changes in idle or cutting off would indicate a short

trying to upload pics...

The downpipe has a wierd shape and the flanges have different shape from rb20det flange so some custom work required for the exhaust. The bore of the downpipe seems closer to 3" and bigger than stock also.....

its noticably laggier than the stock turbo.....but the boost/power response feels more smooth and speedo keeps climbing easily past 180KM/h.....

Have on on my rb20...had to build a spacer for compressor housing clearance with the exhaust manifold......my automatic transmission has been destroyed though......haha....alot more power...than stock

any pics of the manifold and gate? ..are you willing to ship overseas

Found this informative link: http://www.club240.com/forums/showthread.php?p=337334 I have a good idea what to do now

I want to find out if the cefiro rear spindles are a direct bolt up on the S13 rear so my handbrake will work and I can install the nice Z32 rear calipers. The S13 has its handbrake system integrated into the left rear caliper while the cefiro and z32 has it in the hub as far as I know and I want my handbrake to remain functional and the 4 stud set up thoughts appreciated

Found some useful info in this: http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpumpguide.htm

Your gas tank might be filled with gregs.. Did you check the filter on the pump to see if its good? Check the gas filter and voltage going to the pump...possible causes