IanH

Here's the 4door GTT lights (Non-Xenon) Here's the Standard GTR/GTT Lights (Xenon)

Here's the Boost Graph - It made 1.2bar by 3200rpm and held that til 5000rpm before slowly dropping back and holding 1.0bar by 6350rpm til 7250rpm Ignore the spiral effect - the operator over-boosted it at 1st That was with a completely standard head/cams etc just lots of bolt on bits. I was aiming for Tomei 260' Cams and Pulleys for even more poke. It was fantastic to drive - good off boost preformance too.

I had a the same turbo on my GTT and it made 350HP at the Hubs so about 250 hub kw which would be 240rwkw at 1.2bar. It is strangled up top tho, dropped to 1.0bar by 6000rpm This dyno shows it (the software says Flywheel but it's the power measured at the hubs)

It'll fit mate - I had a GTST one on my GTT but I took it off as it made my car jerk about on part throttle (cruising on the road at 80mph I kept having to accelerate/decelerate as i couldn't keep it at the same revs - the engine would surge/gasp/jerk however you want to describe it)

They're the 4door lights that are sometimes fitted for importing (to pass compliance testing).

It's a TopMix version of the Top Secret Front-Bar mate and you need to get some mesh like the silver stuff you've got on it already. Spray it black and then there's a few little metal tabs on the inside that the mesh will fit to. It'll look like this - Old picture with my battered FMIC and un-modded Front-bar Now it looks like this - Until my CF eyebrows abd Lip get fitted

5mm spacers for front and rear should push them out fine.

The same Flywheel power engine will give slightly more power to the wheels in a GTT as there's less transmission loss (but your only talking 5-15rwkw at most)

Dt4 - It worked fine but I really wanted the iD but, being an idiot, I ordered the wrong one (the iD looks better to me too).

The Dials are the opposite way around on the GTT/GTR GTT - Fuel Speed Rev Temp GTR - Temp Rev Speed Fuel So I don't think it'd work without some wiring Mods.

If you take out the heater controls there's a connection for the ambientsensor at the back - make sure it's connected (to get to the back of the heaters you'll have to strip the front panels like your replacing the stereo - http://www.r34gtt.net/r34howtoradio.html)

Lowered 30mm front and 35mm rear on Trust Dowmax springs, looks Much better and handling was much improved. However the rear camber was pushed out to -2.6ve so i needed my camber adjusting to bring them back to -1.1ve - a 30min job.

I ended up selling it and getting the SBC-iD V3 (the one I wanted originally - I buggered up when I bought the DC version)

I'm hoping for 275-300rwkw (GTT so RWD) although nearer 275rwkw is my guess with Standard Turbos at 14.5psi with the following PowerFC Tomei PonCam A's 550cc Inj & uprated Pump Z32 AFM's Apexi Filters Full exhaust I really want to steel internal/GT-SS but have run out of money so I'm going to run 10.5psi for day to day use until I can afford new ones.

Bayside Blue was introduced for the S2 facelift version, not seen any S1 GTT's in BB that are the original colour. The GTV got it about the same time IIRC.

Shonen - Thats the one I've got and my only problem/issue is rain can make the fan belt squeal for a few seconds at startup.

Binky1970 - It's not a piccy from my car, I borrowed it from Car-Domain. One of the best looking GTT's I've ever seen! - http://www.cardomain.com/ride/387882

Defi

I've never seen it either, just the TCS OFF light on permanently

Series 1 came out in May/April '98 - The series 2 in Aug 2000 The difference's are mainly cosmetic (new front bar, darker wheels and GTR coloured interior) although the S2 has a little extra torque. GTR wing - Adjustable and a little taller GTT wing - Non adjustable sits lower with different tip design.

I've seen quite a few with Defi/HKS/Greddy etc and I "Think" the replacements are 52mm (not too sure TBH) but the holder will need a little modding (I think the holes are less than 52mm)

In the short term - Turn the TCS off the TCS compares the speed of the rears to the spedd of the fronts, and if the rears are spinning faster - it thinks you're wheel spinning HOWEVER It's very sensitive and, like the GTR's ATTESA, it can sometimes sense if the rear tyre is nearly bald (compared to the front) which makes it look like the rear is spinning faster and BINGO - TCS! Here's a quick list of the things I'd check Rear Tyre wear Tyre sizes (compare front to rears in this tool - http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html and make sure theres less than 0.5% difference)

With a new plenum you'll lose the TCS permanently. The TCS only operates an extra throttle body infront of the main one. This is so that it can close the throttle (and stop wheelspin) even if you've got your foot flat to the floor. I don't know wether the ECU will pick-up the lack of this 2nd throttle body but my guess is that it won't! It will detect wheelspin still and flash the SLIP light but nothing will happen. However, I always turn mine off anyway.

Blitz SBC-ID Manual in English - Here