IanH
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Everything posted by IanH
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The GTT one doesn't have LED's.
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GTT radiator is rubbish (1/2 as thick as a GTST one!) so I'd fit a R33 one.
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Love Is200's and that top one look fantastic, it'd also be a much easier car to livewith over the GTR but I think you miss that Skyline smile
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Rb25 Turbo Upgrade, All Dyno Results
IanH replied to Nacho Vidal's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
GTT at Stage1 (exhaust etc) Trust TD05-18g 14psi Standard ECU 98RON fuel Figure is HP at the wheelhubs on a Dynapak Same car with same turbo but FMIC/Inj/Pump/ECU etc TD05-18g 17.5psi PowerFC 98 RON fuel Figure is HP at the wheelhubs on a Dynapak -
Who is a Wheel Offset Master?
IanH replied to Downforce's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Without inner arch mods or excessive camber the best setup I've found is this Front 18x8 +30 to +32 with a 235/40 tyre Rear 18x9 +35 to +38 with a 265/35 tyre but you can fit the following as the biggest size I've personally seen Front 18x8.5 +25 with a 255 tyre (although it almost sticks out the arch) Rear 18x9.5 +32 with a 285 tyre I haven't seen a 10inch rear on a GTT yet but I'm sure it'd fit if you alter the inner arch. I'd go around a +28/30 offset. -
How much boost? Stock GTT, GCG highflow.
IanH replied to Abo Bob's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Ran 21.5psi on mine with a 1.6mm HG which didn't affect off-boost driving that I could notice. I'd definately change it if you're going past 1bar in the future. The Tuning issues, was it a hesistation in the 4500-5500rpm range at all? -
I've got a piccy somewhere of a lowered GTT on 20's (on car domain in silver apparently too)
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Nissan quoted is 160rwkw but most seem to be around the 140-150rwkw range when dyno'd. With a full exhaust and pod mine made it's way back to 160rwkw roughly.
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Those wheels will fit really well with no problems. I'd chose 265 for the rears as they match the rolling radius of the fronts (and doesn't affect the speedo at all)
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Sorry mate but I've got a Pro and it's AFM only, The only bit extra is a Launch control and Spark cut instead of fuel cut for the limiter Taken from various websites - APEXi Power FC D-Jetro The D-Jetro Power FC units carry the same functions as the regular Power FC units but do not require the use of the factory standard air flow meter and use a mass air pressure sensor. Apart from the unit itself, use of the D-Jetro units requires addtional parts that vary depending on the model. Power FC Pro Spec.CPU (for DRAG) Only available for some car models, the Power FC Pro Spec.CPU has been designed for drag racing use. These units have two additional functions over the regular units: Ignition cut used for rpm limiter - Regular Power FCs cut fuel feed when the preset revolution limit is reached. At high rpm, there is the possibility of knocking when the fuel is cut in high powered cars. The Power FC Pro Spec.CPUs cut ignition at the rpm limit to prevent the knocking that could potentially destroy the engine. 0km/h rpm limiter setting - Allows for the setting for an initial rpm limiter that is active whilst the car is not in motion. This allows for mainting a rpm level for consistent launches. I've never found any info about Pro ECU's being MAP capable when I was buying mine.
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Mate, a PowerFC PRO doesn't use MAP sensors it's still uses AFM's, only the PowerFC DJetro uses MAP sensors. Make sure you've got the right one!
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lets have a proper "this is my car pic" post
IanH replied to doxximus's topic in General Automotive Discussion
On Grass On the Road -
I found that with 235 fronts I need to fit 265 rears as my 255's caused a TCS error explained below 235 = 79.8 inch rolling radius 255 = 78.6 inch rolling radius The TCS can see this difference and , on my car, activated the TCS above 140kph (the rears were doing 2mph more than the rears at that speed and the TCS saw this as wheel-spin) Fitting 265 tyres cured this as there is only 1/3rd of an inch difference so no wheelspin sensed (unless you really are wheelspinning!) The Offsets are also good for 8" wide fronts and 9" rears (as on mine)
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a single td05-18g (on a gtt) did me 230rwkw so I'd say that twins would do 400rwkw on a gtr!
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The Neo Loom is very different to a GTST one so you'll have to either make a custom one or spend ages modifying the GTST loom (oh and the GTST ECU plug on the loom won't fit a Neo ECU)
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Greenline Nengun Taka Kiara
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Will 19x8 Wheels fit on an R33 GTS-T?
IanH replied to sablegryphon's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Yeap they'll fit, although you'll have to chose your tyre size carefully (to keep the same rolling radius) -
It's just the Nissan lip on the standard front bar, but theres also an aftermarkey copy around from www.topmix.hk I think
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Choyda - His option 2 is the same as your list mate (although he doesn't say which turbo) I'm go with the HKS2835 Pro over the RS too.
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Hiya Paul - A re-tune is usually just as much as the 1st time as theirs just as much setting up to do on the PFC. Reliability at 400hp is fine as long as the mapping is very good. Mine did over 30,000Km before I broke mine (my fault with fitting an oil cooler, not the cars) at that power as an everyday driver from -5'c to +35'c in summer without missing a beat. One thing I did notice is that the standard GTT radiator is utter rubbish! It's only 1/2 as thick as a GTST one (about 1cm! with very thin water channels) so I changed mine for a modified GTR one.
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RB26 engine into R34 GTT, any issues?
IanH replied to Chris Wilson's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Hiya mate - "Driver" on here is also doing a RB26 conversion if you want to PM him but here's my list Sump - You've already took the front diff off your GTR sump so that shouldn't be a problem. Wiring - The Engine to ECU loom is a fairly straight swap but the dash/stereo/lights etc wiring uses different plugs (if it's a R33 GTR engine, not sure about R34 one) so thats a fair amount of re-wiring. FMIC Pipes - might need some altering to fit the GTT holes but you shouldn't find that a problem Battery - Into the boot Washer bottle - Rich mentioned that the bottle might have to be changed for access You've got some fabricating but other than that it's really only the wiring thats a nightmare. -
Option 2 is what I did, otherwise you spend $500 now for a 11psi tune then another $500 after you fit your new turbo.
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I was going for the PonCam B set (260' in/ex) to get me around 280rwkw (up from 250rwkw) on my Trust turbo but it all went wrong before I had the chance.# The Tomei site reccomends them for aftermarket turbos. There's a lad in the UK with them fitted and his mid/high rev-range was alot better than mine.
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Hiya all, I've just converted my gtt site to a business plan which has given me 2.5Gb of space to play with (instead of 25mb - so 100x's more space!!!!). Now I've got the space to do what I really want to, so I've uploaded every bit of GTT info I've got and lots of Vids but what I'm really missing is some of the really technical info and part numbers etc. Now I've done my own How To's etc and I'm uploading some more from people from here and from Jap sites (translations are a bit dodgy at times!) but if any GTT owners are doing anything in the future could I ask you to take some piccys and maybe jot down a few hints (notepad etc) so I can make the best GTT info site on the web. It can be anything from bulbs to engine stripping I'm not fussy. Also if you find anything GTT related on the web (or your own PC) thats interesting/fact/how-to's etc could you PM me the Link please. I've also altered the layout now so it uses Frames (not my favorite way of doing it but I'm still a fair newbie to good HTML design) so if you could just check over the site and let me know it anything doesn't display right (pictures etc) or links don't work etc I'd be grateful. PS The site has now passed 60,000 visitors since Dec 2003 and I'm getting e-mails everyday from people around the world - Thanks Very Much Everyone! Cheers...........................................................IanH
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Closest I've found is EastBears bottom lip attachment http://www.east-bear.co.jp/aeroparts/skyli...-34/index2.html