6BOOST

Hey guys, I've recently purchased an R34 GTT as a project car, and would like to make it visually the same as a GTR with panels etc. Don't need judgement on cost vs outcome, however if you have or know anyone with the parts needed please pass on my number. So looking for complete front end, rear guards (genuine not bolt on style) cut off a wreck that can be welded in, rear bar, side skirts etc. 0410 730 598, located in QLD but happy to travel for the right parts. Regards, Kyle

Hey Guys, Thought I'd chime in and say I've known Bobby for a number of years now and we discussed this manifold the very first time we met. He has been a great supporter of our products and certainly isn't here to bag 6boost, and thank you Bobby for the kind words on the quality of our product. Whether anyone see's the benefit in his design is irrelevant, this project is being built for one person and it's the same person paying the bills, so maybe cut him a little slack and appreciate that rather than wait and see IF it works, he's putting his rep on the line and showing everyone the full build DURING the process, if nothing else the level of thought and engineering warrants commendation. I believe there will be a few other factors in engine design that will help with spool in this combination, and while I appreciate the effort gone into equal wastegate flow, I am still sceptical at its hp improvement over conventional design, hopefully even if it doesn't achieve your ultimate expectations we still get to see the real outcome and response. If it doesn't meet your expectations, at least you put your money where your mouth is and tried, more than I can say for 99% of the rest of the performance industry who just copy and regurgitate the competitions product over and over. Glad to hear the end is finally in sight guys, good luck with finishing the project and I look forward to seeing your results. 6BOOST

Seeing as I took the time to go out of my way and help you out to sell your exhaust manifold, I'd appreciate it if you did the right thing and got back to me about sending the other one back, I won't be supplying one to him until you do. Kyle

Hi guys, To clarify and try and help Turbz out of an unfortunate situation, I am happy to build the manifold high or low mount, T4 or T3, single entry or split, in any position you like for whatever price you work out in the sale with him. For security of payment, once you have paid him for the manifold, send me a copy of the payment receipt and I will ship the manifold directly to you myself, cutting out any question to the legitimacy of the seller or delivery. It may take up to 10 days to build what you want, however I do have a T4 RB25 manifold on the shelf for immediate dispatch. Hope this helps you out mate, just so you know freight will be at yours or the buyers expense 6BOOST

5 manifolds built guys, 4 to go. All manifolds will be gone monday, hoping tjis gives enough time for delivery pre christmas. Also NYTSKY, I have not recieved your turbo or manifold, can you please call me asap so we can chase it up, I need it by friday to get your manifold done this year. If anyone is yet to make payment, please do so NOW, as by the time it clears to Leon's account, then to mine, we will be running out of time to get these out. Kind Regards.....................Kyle

And everybody in the group buy needs to tell me what turbo and gate they are running, not just high/external, as I could build everything from a T28 high mount with a 38mm gate for a RB26 up to a GT55 high mount with 60mm gate. So please give Leon details of what flange/turbo you want to run and what size gate. I recommend minimum 44mm and if you haven't purchased a gate yet, the new turbosmart 50mm. If you need gates with manifold contact Leon about arranging one with your manifold from me at cost price. Regards.........................6BOOST

Hi All, Sorry for my late reply, I flew to sydney for the weekend to help my sister move. To answer some questions: 1: I cannot do stock position low mount manifolds for RB20/25. There is simply NO room for a manifold, if anyone has ever back to back tested those cheap stainless manifolds, they actually spool later and make same or less power in my experience. I have seen this on 2 cars, one with standard hiflow, the other GT35. The problem is room, the turbo points straight at the engine, and is about 2" from the head face. Just not doable to any decent standard. Sorry:( 2: My RB26 low mount manifolds are standard position, I have done many of them, and never had a single car have "surge issues" without a balance pipe. I don't have time to go into massive detail right now about it, but there is absolutely no need for a balance pipe. If anything, its the worst thing you could do for spool and HP. Think of a divided manifold and turbo, your trying to use pulse tuning by keeping the gasses divided all the way to the turbo, similarly to a twin turbo on a 6, front 3 runners go to one turbo, the back 3 to the other. Running a balance pipe would be like drilling a hole clean thru the divider in the split manifold. Compressor surge happens when the turbo's are trying to flow more air into the engine than it can consume at that RPM and load point. So how the hell is running a balance pipe between 2 manifolds suddenly going to make the engine flow more air so it no longer compressor surges?? It can't, and won't, and if anything, IMO would actually make it worse due to poorer pulse tuning. If anyone has back to back tested them and found the opposite, I'd love to hear from you. Otherwise my point remains. Another thing is that the other manufacturers don't use merge collectors. While you might think they look all neat and free flowing, we did a manifold for Rob Baraks Evo3, which had a VERY similar design manifold to those low mount 26 manifolds, and by changing to my manifold, picked up 380rpm of spool (huge) and 31kw at all 4. The air hits the turbine so efficiently and with such velocity with a merge collector that I would find it hard for the air from one turbo to effect the other. 3: All my manifolds are designed to suit 3 litre bottom ends. Regardless of what you order, be it RB20 or 25, it will still sit low enough that if you went to a 3 litre bottom end you would have ample bonnet clearance. I own a R32 skyline myself with a 26/30 in it and this was used to jig up most manifolds. We can fit anything from a T28 all the way up to a GT55 under the bonnet, with anything in between. If anyone has any specific questions, please email me directly at [email protected], and I will reply in more detail there. Please make your order here with Leon tho as I appreciate his efforts to start and run the group buy and taking one payment from him for all goods will make life a lot easier. Kind regards, Kyle 6boost.com 0410 730 598

Item:Complete turbo setup from the ex "IMKAOS" R32 skyline, has made 713rwhp on pump fuel and tol and over 800rwhp on C16. Setup consists of pretty much all bolt ons needed, being stainless steel exhaust manifold, T4 split pulse, fitted with turbosmart 48mm gate, MR Turbo DBB T76 GTS Trim turbo with .96 rear housing, basically a GT42 in size, polished compressor cover, all oil and water lines, full 3.5" exhaust from dump to tip with 1 fake cat and single rear muffler, reasonably quiet for what it is, 4" inlet pipe with K&N Filter, ARE 600x300x109mm cooler brand new never fitted, 3" inlet and 3.5" out, all intercooler piping, silicon hose, clamps, aftermarket single throttle intake manifold, typical cast looking item fitted with single 100mm front mount throttle body. Intake manifold, TB and turbo cover all newly polished and not refitted. Basically, there is EVERYTHING here needed to bolt to a 26/30 to make 800+rwhp, depending on engine strength, it could also work fine on a straight RB26, however would need 1" taken from the dump pipe length, that is all. Age: ARE Interooler new, Mr Turbo turbo reco/checked, everything else 2 years of minimal(read maybe 2000k's) use. Condition: Good to perfect condition, some stuff is average like filter needs a clean, pipes could do with a polish, altho all parts usable and in perfect working order. Price: $4500 plus postage Location: Toowoomba QLD Contact: Kyle on 0410 730 598 or [email protected] Comments: Please no time wasters, reason for sale is going bigger setup and all items here being replaced. Will not separate any components unless there is a byer for each group of parts separately and total $$ value is the same between you all, please call or email if you have genuine enquiries and don't waste my time unless you are serious, I don't have time. Kind Regards..........................Kyle Some video's of the setup and its performances. I wouldn't put my name to anything that was less than perfect. http://www.youtube.com/results?search_quer..._type=&aq=f

Have sorted Andrew out with a new tial 60mm at cost and will be also refunding him money in return for his used gate as well, if he didn't get it today, should have it tomorrow. Look forward to seeing the final power firgure, we know its flowing some unrestricted air at least;) 6BOOST

By sending me the manifold and paying the difference to a 60mm gate and letting me modify it to suit. It'll work, no question. I would however like to know if anyone has really pulled the second spring out of th egate, I'd really like a dyno graph to show it also, and if it doesn't go past 21-22si, I'd like to see it run to redline, or to whatever rpm it takes to hit 21-22psi. Its getting too hard to diagnose when I can't see fist hand whats going on, except that others, in large numbers have had no drama's, its gotta be fixable. 6BOOSt

A GT3071, 3076, 3082 and 3582 turbine housing are all identicle, the only difference is the size of the hole bored in them for the turbine wheel, which is bigger for the 3582, all the others have the same size exhaust wheel. You could take a 3071 .63 turbine housing, machine it out to GT35 size and slip it straight on, it would be identicle to buying a GT35 with one already on it. Secondly to that, the smaller turbo explains boost control. Some people in this thread have said remove the exhaust. This is the worst thing you could do, more back pressure/more retriction will create lower boost, so leaving it on will giv eyou the lowest boost possible. Some of my customers street/race cars pick up 10-15 psi of boost when the drop their 3" exhaust at the track. The 3076 will be holding lower boost because it offers more retriction and back pressure hence more air will exit the gate. I will reinterrate what I have said 2-3 times now Andrew, I have NUMEROUS RB30, 25/30 and 26/30 engines that have no boost control isues with a 44mm gate. I have at least 10:1 ratio of ones that have No issues to ones that do. You have an issue with the fact that I told you a 44mm gate should be fine, but what would you have me say?? If people are on a budget or doing things as cheap as possible, heck, even if they aren't, do I tell every customer to go and spend another $350 on a bigger gate over a 44 when 95% of people have no issue?? DO I just offer my advise to each person that it MAY work but they should consider a 60?? I empathise with your position, I have been thru this on a customers car myself before, we put 50/50 pump fuel and tolulene in and brought peak boost down from 27psi to 21psi, we then changed the intake manifold to something better and it came down even further again. Other than that, we now run the wastegate from the turbine housing where possible. I understand you feel its dodgy, I think the exact opposite, I'd PREFER to run it off the turbine, and do so on my own car, everyone of my friends cars, and any customer that will listen and let me do it. You have better boost control, more hp, faster spool, and I PERSONALLY don't think it looks dodgy. Each to their own. As I said earlie tho, if the gate isn't a restriction, why does it go up when you fit it back on the manifold?? Theoretically it should stay at 13psi when open. Hope you've removed one of those springs..... 6BOOST

A few things Andrew. From the first dyno graph you posted, and emailed me, the boost goes to 13psi with no gate on there, maybe it would have gone a bit higher, 15-16 tops by redline. Your now saying it tops at 13. which as I said, I would at least expect by cutting off that pipe going down to the ground. Can you please post up a pic of your gate setup now, with it on the car and the wastegate pipe cut off?? So its up the top now?? You make it sound like you've done this, but somehow I get the feeling you've just run another outlet and refitted it, picture will tell a 1000 words. Second to that, I would expect a decrease in boost had you cut that pipe off, hence backing up my previous statement that it was a complete waste of your time and money to add a second outlet, which I told you would make no difference, I offered you a 60mm gate, brand new, for $450 change over including modifying the manifold with a gaurantee it would work. Why are you also making statements that I never bought up the 60mm gate before?? What a crock!! I discussed it with you numerous times before you touched the manifold last week!. It is starting to come across more and more to me that your just trying to blame me and make me look bad, which just doesn't float mate, if you'd done a single thing I'd said to so far we my have gotten some results. Where has this majical 5psi thing come from?? I ask you, if the gate offers no restriction, so when its fully open under boost, if it could pass ENOUGH AIR for your application, would it still not hold 13psi of boost as the manifold does with no gate?? It should. Also, maybe you should try calling some workshops with big hp experience and ask them about manifolds, Bresciani Racing would be a good one. Years ago I used to deal with them, and it came about because one of my mates has a manifold on his RB30 that would hold 14psi with no gate on there, he told john who said "who made tha manifold? Get him to call me, thats a good manifold". Your not waking up to the fact that cheap shit stainless chinese manifolds have the gate coming out of the BOTTOM at 180 degrees to the flow, and hold boost with a 38!!!mm gate. So whats it tell you that at the angle mine does, and has issues with a 44?? Thats it works incredibly well at reducing back pressure, increasing velocity, and scavenging. You can go on about this all day mate, but the fact is, I have 400 other cars and RB manifolds with little or no boost control issues, and less than you could count on your fingers and toes that do. Rather than jump up and down and look for someone to blame, listen to what I originally said when you first called me with a problem, that every application is different, 98% work fine with that setup, I can't account for the very few that have problems, and my ADVISE would be to fit a 60m gate. Been there, done it, fixed it. This whole 13psi with the gate off biz is just annoying me, as if the gate flowed enough, it would hold 13psi with the gate ON. Higher boost with no gate on there is an indictaion of a good manifold and a very efficient and well setup combination, not poor design. 6BOOST PS, please put up a dyno graph with the runs you did with the outer spring removed from the gate, how I told you the spring reduces valve travel?? And make restrict flow?? The graph should come up to 5psi and climb as it revs out, much like the 15psi one, just starting at 5. Also a pic of the current setup. I want to help, I really do mate, but looking for someone to blame won't help either of us.

No offence taken, however to highlight the points you just raised, my gate outlet comes off the collector at 30deg, I cut every single one of them and put in a big box with my drop saw every few weeks, so I know the angle, maybe you haven't taken notice before. Secondly to that, the gate outlet pipe is 42mm id. A Tial 44mm gate(most common I and my customers seem to use) is measured at the valve, not the hole in the inlet, which is actually around 41mm or the same as the outlet pipe. The other most common gate is the turbosmart 48mm, which as a 45mm hole in the inlet flange, again, only 1.5mm per side bigger than the pipe I use, there is no such thing as 50mm pipe. Conversly, the next size up pipe has a diameter of 54-55mm ID, its so big that the gates we are talking about, the flange would fit INSIDE the gate outlet. This in my eyes would cause massive turbulence into the gate... Would the bigger outlet pipe make up for any downsides to the flange transition?? I don't know. Simple fact is, if anyone has a probem with boost control, calls me, and actually listens to what I have to say, rather than just look for someone to blame, rarely can you not get a workable result easily. Its just most people want to listen to the advise of others, rather than the designer of the product who has done over 1000 manifolds and encountered every problem first hand along the way. Often removing one of the springs in the 1 bar gates helps, as does a change of cam timing, and also putting a proper cat in, the back pressure reduces boost. Simply put, if you want to run your car like a race car with a 3.5"+ exhaust, no cat and 1 muffler, then run a race style 50-60mm gate, don't expect to use the best manifold on the market thats is designed to stop turbulence, reversion and increase velocity, and expect to use a street style(for the application) 40-45mm gate. 6BOOST

Never mind, refer to my last post, problem found http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Hu...22#entry3829122

HOLY.......f**k You mean to tell me, after all these problems, and all the calls, that I was just silly enough not to ask if you had mounted the gate off the manifold with the SUPPLIED f**kING BEND??!!! The picture tells the exact reason you have bloody boost creep issues!! Did I supply it with a 90 degree bend and some straight pipe?? NOOOO!!!!! Because you have a manifold that is so efficient that under NO CIRCUMSTANCES should you mount the gate more than 50mm away unless you have a 60mm gate! Tell you what, wish I had of known this sooner, I would have told you to just chop the gate pipe off in the car without removing anything and given it a run. Hey presto, boost control! There is room to mount the gate up high, if I can fit a GT42 and 4" dump with a 44mm gate up high, you can fit one as well, keeping the ABS and all. 2 whole threads on this same subject and finally, an answer. Andrew, DO NOT mount the gate down there, and you will have no issues. 6BOOST

Without going on about this all night, being 1am, I'll start by saying that I wish people with little to no experience would save their comments for things they actually do know what they are talking about. So first item on the agenda. I have built at LEAST 400-500 RB nissan manifolds to suit GT35 turbos. The manifold is essentially identicle bar the head plate and port spacing between RB30, 20, 25 and 26. I do the same gate outlet on every single one, and a large % of my customers use Tial 44mm gates. Of the...... lets say 300 manifolds I've done, maybe 10-20 have had boost control problems. Now who would like to tell me why less than 5% of people have a problem if its solely the manifold to blame?? Its not. Simply, when you run a big efficient engine, with a turbo that is easy to spin, a manifold that has no reversion, turbulence, and perfect design/scavenging, its going to get VERY difficult to keep boost levels down. The biggest culperets are big exhausts with no cats and 1 muffler, offereing no resistance to turbine flow, usually small to med cams, and people who don't want to listen. Why will a 60mm gate fix the problem if the manifold still boosts to 13psi with no gate?? Because the surface area of the exit is 70% greater for a start. Also, if the boost changes 7-10 psi with the gate on, its obviously a restriction yes?? I have tested and found the 60mm gate to work, I offered this as a solution, not a suggestion. I offered to trade the used 44mm gate in on a new 60mm and modify the manifold to suit for free, total change over being $400 which is the cost difference between the gates new, but Andrew chose to have a go at fixing it by themself. I have no problem with this, however its a case for me of everybody not understanding that no one part can be made to work in every application every single time. I have cars with almost identicle setups and no boost control issues, Mercury Motorsports RB26/30 drift car being 1 example. Its simply a matter of working thru the issues for a usable result, rather than looking for someone to blame. I have however found that the Tial gate has limited valve travel with both springs installed(1bar is inner and outer spring) and I suggested to remove the outer spring and give it a run. In my experience, it has brought the boost down by 5-7psi, and the graph I have been given for the above setup shows about 3psi per 1000rpm, and stops at 20psi, I would expect a top of 25-26psi by redline, and with the spring dropped out, boost to come down to around 20psi. I was told this was tried, but given no dyno graph to show it at this point in time. All I can say to people is don't ask for advise if your not interested in listening, my experience is hard learned and earnt, extensive, and 9 times out of 10 more accurate than the mates and people around you offering "advise". You can't always please everyone and its really disheartening when people just look for the easiest person to blame rather than understand that sometimes specific setups just require more work to get right. All the best with the gate mods andrew, be sure to let me know how you go when its back together and how the boost control works. Regards..........................Kyle 6boost.com 0410730598

So what ended up happening with this?? I haven't been on here for a while and just got your PM. Did you find the missing power?? OR find any other problems on the dyno?? Give me a call, 0410 730 598. If you haven't found a solution yet, I'd be happy to build a manifold for free for you to try and back to back test, just send it back when your finished, that way I get feedback and results and you get to check if that was the problem. Altho at this stage, I'd be thinking cam timing..... 6BOOST

Please don't turn this thread into being about me guys, I am more than happy to answer general questions and help out, as I genuinely believe there are great gains to be had with a well designed and built manifold, not just mine, however I don't want to disrespect those that pay to sponser the site, or the moderating team for letting me post as much specific information as I have already. If you have a specific question about MY product, do some research and find my number and call me, otherwise keep the questions to manifolds in general or pm some of the site sponsers who also do great manifolds. Regards...........................Kyle

Thats cool man, they are both good products, I'm sure your very happy with your purchase. As for weight, we are talking about a manifold that weighs 10.8kg. A staino or titanium manifold would still weigh 4-7kg. I don't see what all the fuss is about the weight. Shit, surely people often drive around with 5-7kg of extra crap in their car as it is?? If its an issue that people have in theri head that the weight of the runners will effect longevity, then read my previous post that the few manufacturers in australia offer an unlimited klm lifteime warranty, obviously this does no seem a concern for us. To answer your question directly tho, nobody makes titanium mandrel bends, I did some extensive research a few years ago, the only ways you could do it is mandrel bend them yourself(100k for a machine decent enough to do tightradius bends for a manifold) or lobster back it, which is just crazy. It just isn't feasible, and may not last any longer than staino. 6BOOST

There is absolutely ZERO benifit of mild steel over staino other than appearance, and as Ricky has said, if its that important to you, get it coated!! 6BOOST:)

If its of any interest on the cracking issue, I think half of it is weld quality, half is material selection. Like I said, the guy who welded the staino steam pipe manifold is a ticketed pressure vessel welder, it didn't crack cause he didn't weld, it cracked cause it was stainless. I've got a whole heap of info about it, like th efact stainless expands an contracts 270% more than mild steel, but thata a spiel for another time. Suffice to say, all my manifolds come with a unlimited klm lifetime warranty, and in 780 odd manifolds, I have had 2 manifold crack, both were heat wrapped, both had no bracing, and both were used in racing applications with the full weight of the ront of the exhaust hanging off them. After repair and additional bracing, and adding a support to the exhaust, both cars have done another 12 months of racing with no issues. I have customers VL's with 30+k on the clock on the street with 350-400rwhp that have no issues to this day. As I said previously, the same quality and durability could be expected of most of the well made steam pipe manifolds on the market, just steer clear of stainless if you want a long life. 6BOOST

PS, also note the 300LB's more tractive effort on the EVO after mani change. 6BOOST

Geez, anyone would think business owners have nothing better to do than sit on the computer and answer pm's, emails and posts, its been less than a week, the first week back from christmas, try having a look at the times I reply and get an idea of what time I finish work, shower, eat, and get to sit down sometimes FFS Warlord................ Now, 2 dyno graphs, first is SR20 from mercury motorsport. No other changes to car, simply back to back manifold change. Its a bit shit in terms of the fact previously, the car made 30psi, and fell away to 27psi. And afetr changing the manifold due to where they wanted the gate, it came on to 18psi of boost and creeps to 23. Even still, you can see it spools 250rpm sooner, and makes another 38rwhp on 5psi less boost, at 6300rpm, its making the same power on 8-9psi less boost. This setup went on to make 568rwhp on 35psi and race fuel and is number 3 in the street rwd under 2.4 litre records in hpi. Second is a well known evo, has runs 9's and done 600+ dyno pulls, I made the offer to build a manifold for free to see the results on a big HP car, this thing had already laid down 640awhp on gas and the manifold off it was actually quite nice. I copied the exact flange position, and the manifold was back to back tested on the same night with no tuning changes. The black line is their manifold, the thin black line is my manifold with a small round hole(we were testing outlet shapes and sizes, and for a 700+hp car, the small hole was just too restrictive), and the red line was after 40min work with the die grinder to port match the manifold from a round hole to the same rectangle as the turbo. The results?? 380rpm faster spool, 40hp at all 4 wheel son the same boost, and they since went to bigger cams and more tuning, and still is as resposive as the previous manifold and now makes 704awhp NO GAS. NOTE: The last and biggest number graph stops short simply because being a highly tuned race engine and with half a season under its belt, they didn't want to keep revving the thing when it was obviously making more grunt. You can see the spool gain in the previous run with smaller outlet that was taken all the way to redline for proof. Now, at the time, I had nothing to do with mercury. and their results are completely unbiased, I Wasn't even there when they dyno'd it. The other car I still have nothing to do with the shop that dyno'd it and I can assure you they would do me no favours in making my product look good, this also was a completely unbiased result. I have more, but its 12.30am, and thats all I have time for tonight. There ya go Warlord, you have proof, now go make it worth all the compliants and demands and actually buy something....... 6BOOST

Well, trying to remember all the questions.... I cannot produce a stock replacement manifold for the RB engine, and any manifold that does fit this position would be a complete waste of money, there is simply NO room to fit a collector of any description in there, the turbo points straight at the block and is like 2" away from the exhaust port. If I built something, it would look like something from nasa and have shit going everywhere, pipes looping out and back in, would be a nightmare and a compromise if it could even be built. The stainless replacements crack very very easily, and are very poor, a friend who used to work for Tighe cams has a 25/30 VL with a GT35, it didn't make full boost till 4300rpm with one of those things, this cam all the way back to 3700-3800rpm when he put mine on there(sorry, no dyno graphs, not everyone gives these types of things to me) You would be far better off just getting the factory item extrude honed and ported, very good gains, long lasting product. As for taking a photo of the dyno graph, that is something I can do, I'll take some pics in the next day or so and post them up of back tpo back comparisons. I would however not like to turn this into a 6boost thread or for sale thread, and will point out that similar gains should be expected of most merge collector style manifolds, the information will purely be for a comparitive purpose to show that a well designed manifold dows and will actually be a benifit. Chrisman, of the few locally produced manifolds around, most come with an unlimited klm lifetime warranty, so should you have the same problems with cracking I'm sure it would be fixed for you no questions asked. The full race manifolds are a work of art, something I will aspire to build to some day, however they have something like 40 staff, and most of us have 1 or 2, their manifolds are the price they are because of the development and cost of machinery it takes to produce them. I still don't like the stainless factor, and think you'd find after 4-5 years of street use you'll start to see some cracks appear, I did 1 manifold for a customer in stainless steampipe 3 years ago, he is a ticketed pressure vessel welder and works on the mines welding, and welded it himself, and it has cracked at least once that I know of under the collector, it is a T76 RB26 nissan producing around 600hp at all 4 with a single entry style collector. The full race manifolds are a very very nice product, but as mentioned, at 2200 plus shipping and taxes, it would be an expensive investment, that apart from looks, I don't think would outperform the local product. Twin gate outlets cost no extra over normal outlet, call me if you need yours changed on already completed manifold Huddy, most of the asian manifold companies, no matter who they are, prob produce 10-50 times the amoutn of manifolds most of us custom guys can, they simply have to do it the most cost effective way, and as such, the way they piece them together is the easiest way. I'm sure someday one of those companies is going to look very closely at mine or leighs manifolds and go and work out how to do a cheap or stainless pretty version of it, but till then, they just cut and split mandrel bent pipes to fit together on a jig. Secondly, no matter how much me or anyone else screams the praises of mild steel, "Pretty Manifolds" sell, and always will, especially in the US and asia where it would be very hard for me to sell a product unless I silver ceramic coated it, so for this reason, stainless manifolds will ALWAYS remain common place for these companies. Hope that answers a few questions, I'll get some pics of comparisons for you all to look at in the next few days. 6BOOST

Firstly, let me apologise to any of my customers that have waited excessively long periods for a manifold, in most cases it was a case of 1 person trying to do a 2 or 3 man job, and after 2-3 years straight, keeping people informed took a backseat to just getting to work everyday. Suffice to say, keep your eyes out in 08 as we have 2 new staff, 2 new welders, a lathe, inhouse sandblasting cabinet and linisher, and prodution times by feb will be under 10 days with a 3 day express order option. Again, I don't wish to make excuses, just to say that I am sorry and aware of the poor lead times, and have done something about it As to gains over the cheap style manifolds, any of the merge collector manifolds on the market(of which there are 2 and soon to be 3 on the australian market) will make good gains in performance and spool over a non merge manifold. Look around at some of the power firgures people are making, or the rpm at which they are making full boost in comparison to cheap manifolds and you'll get a good indication of how much difference they make. While I don't have scanner to upload any of the back to back dyno graphs I've done, I have done testing on 11 cars to date, every single one picked up at least 150rpm of spool, and any that haven't picked up spool we have designed to make more power, which have picked up 50-60rwhp. Don't take my word for it, here is an unbiased post on another forum from a customer: http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=27825 Similar results can be expected from most well made brands of merge collector manifold, its all in the collector;) Regards..............................6BOOST