hal32

dual clutch transmissions etc. all sound great and that, but one possible issue is that we'll end up with a market flooded with cheap and nasty dual clutches and even more cheap and nasty tiptronics which are all going to suck, and no option of just standard manuals until you get top-end. it's not hard to build a good manual box cheaply... maybe by the time i'm looking for a newer car i'll have heaps of cash and won't have to worry.

check your battery etc connections too... i had a similar prob last week over going over the mother of all bumps. thanks dept of main roads... (also killed a head light bulb)

trucks way over the speed limit? wow. how is this news?

you'd better stir in some vegies or all that rice will taste very bland...

jaycar sells master solenoids for about $25 from memory or slaves (pass side) for about $15. sure it's not as pretty as standard but you won't notice with the door card back on. $65 sounds a little excessive...

this feature is two of four count-down modes. you need to be in the count-down mode, p+t (i think, but it might be s+t) cycles thru the modes. then you need to press p+s to cycle thru the count-down modes. there is preset 1 and 2, and auto lo and hi. preset 1 is a preset time that is smaller than preset 2. these presets stay the same and always count down that set amount (say 30sec vs 1min). the auto settings also have preset times but they are a base to which the greddy timere adds secs depending on revs and driving time. auto lo starts adding time on to the lo preset at 3k rpm and auto hi does the same but starts adding at 2k rpm. these modes are a great idea but are excessive when you do long drives. when i drive from brisbane to toowoomba the auto lo gives you about 10 min, and the auto hi gives you so many minutes the display won't show the exact no. just says 10+ or 20+ or something... the rpm thing your talking about lets you use the timer as a rev counter. both these features are redundant if you're rev wire is not connected.

i'll be there - i want to see some more cinnamon based antics...

hey guys i'll be there, +1. we're keen for dinner beforehand, if that's still happening see you all then

oops. i uploaded the original again... try again

surely this would mean that it's illegal to drive with your hands on the gear stick? i swear 90% of people only have one hand on the wheel - even when they're not using the other one for anything (visible)

nup. only just got into it. i mustn't be doing it right. i got the bc639 --> i've got the collector grounded, the base connected to the lock wire (live when locked) and the emitter on the trigger wire. so far the windows aren't going and the pass door locks aren't following the drivers side lock.

here's the same but bigger

i had this a few weeks back, but it fixed itself before i got a chance to take a look at the back. i think i must have had a poor connection at the back. pull your h/u out and check your wiring... (otherwise just whack it a bit)

p plates have nothing to do with young drivers and disciminating against them - it's so everyone (police and public) know that those drivers are inexperienced. i'm not saying they're bad drivers - but they do have less than four years exp, compared to ten or twenty or whatever. if you were to wait til you were 40 to get your licence you would still have to wear p plates...

i was using the remote but my alarm/turbo timer means that when i lock the car the windows don't activate until after the timer finishes, and then several seconds later the immoliser kicks in. i don't want to walk off with the windows down. it also means that if you turn the car off the windows go up when the immob starts automatically. which sucks if you're waiting in the car. that's why i'm changing to the door locks themselves - that way they only lift when i lock the car - remote or key and not when i don't want them to...

hi all! i need help with my window lifter module. i want the windows to shut when i lock the doors. the window module is activated by an earth signal. the existing wires are: - constant charge and - earth when unlocked, charge when locked (opposite to what i need) this is the switch i have made: the new wire is on the control rod for the lock, which earths when it locks by running into the strapping. this mostly works but it also earths when the door is bumped - closing or driving over bumps. it's a short pulse but enough to close the windows. anyone got any ideas? i thought maybe a capacitor to filter the pulse, or a relay but not sure how to do it. i would appreciate any help... thanx hal

good point. but i wasn't excited enough about suvs to look that close...

photoshop or lift kit?

if you use a switch to turn off the front wheels and then put them back on, i think you have to stop completely before the front wheels reset and start working again. i could be wrong but that's how it happens when you use the "switch off the ignition while moving" method of disconnecting front drive...

all car ads where they tell you nothing about the actual car are dismal - i can't imagine why people spend all that money and they know nothing about the actual car. that's partly why the 200 killer wasps ad is so good. i'd never buy the car tho...

room for one more?...

the thread on e46 forum was just a pisstake on the original, if you read thru the 1st one there's a link to that... serves the dumb kid right + gives us all a good laugh. (there's some awesome smileys on that forum. people with too much time...)

i saw an audi ages ago - WRX SUX

Greddy timers are awesome til they burn out and melt the casing. i've lost two in less than eighteen months. they were wired in by autobarn so it's not my wiring mistakes...

TezGT-R - you can see that same ute and 100s just like it in toowoomba every friday and saturday night, lapping the main street. i once saw a ute with two giant aerials turn on to the main street and they were still swaying side to side 200m later. bogans. other utes with mack mudflaps and anything up to 12 aerials...