yokotas13

well after about 2 hours we removed it, pumped it, stuff barely came out so we broke it apart to see if there was a clogg, or bad orings, and after we put it back together, the fluid came out liek it was supposed to....but put it back on teh car, and nothing

we tried for 5 hours today beside, if you take the bleed screw off the side, it should damn near pour out, and it wasnt also i have no speedo or tach.....but thats another problem for another day

Ok so i have a problem Basically, my master and slave cylinder arent doing anything i cant pull fluid from the bottom with a speed bleeder, but none of the lines are clogged (ran air through everything) and broke apart the master cylinder to check for bad seals etc etc im ordering a rebuild kit anyways Im using an r33 gt25t slave and master, but i also tried a 260rs master as well. i have elimnated the loop and its straight from the master to the slave. any ideas? pedal isnt kinked either.

well unless you move the brake thing like you did, its not gonna happen lol

i found the rear part (with my kit and a few on the auctions) but ive only seen one of the front parts on the auctions im going ot have to make my own

its missing a few things, mainly hte center console regardless, if you get that one, the Master cylinder wont work

pics nad specs of wheels!!!

i like it!! cant wait to see it with some wheels that fit!

eh, i changed the harness to the manual one, maybe i wont have to.

so where do these wires go to? the neutral, power, and reverse BTW if you dont bridge that connection, the engine just turns over constantly lol Also, an RB26DETT Clutch master cylinder WILL NOT WORK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! you need an RB20, or RB25 clutch master cylinder, the 26 has a booster thing on it, and it wont fit...luckily i found one at a local shop for 3,000 yen

i have always swapped the manual harness in. it has two extra plugs for the manual tranny on this particular one, adn gets rid of a bunch of htem from the auto. makes it cleaner, and less wires all around. dont do it if you dont want to. THe other thread left me thinking wtf do i do next. Didnt say anything about longer bolts etc etc move it if you want, or dont. and if you use the auto harness, where do you plug the two plugs on the side of the tranny into?

HKS hi power trust sucks ok i kid i kid i just prefer the sound of the hipower over hte trust ive actually got a bid in on one now http://page2.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/b75287628

if i can get a pic of hte three wire setup he did, ill be done with the wiring my tranny is back in, all i have left is pedals, i had to wait so oi can buy some more hole saws it shoudl be done tomorrow

it was here in japan. not US turbos maxed out, engine built with cams, only the bottom end not touched

yeah, i do. how much is it to fill a bottle down there?

ok, im not going to do bolt to bolt however i am going to do the REAL details the things that make you go to the hardware store 4 or 5 times for crap first ill tackle the tranny and wiring aspect...theres alot of work 1.remove the battery, adn the harness going from the battery on back (it has the alternator, 3 sensors behind the alternator which go to a plug in front of the alternator ****remember this plug, very important****, then to the starter, adn then to the auto tranny)and the four plugs in the front on the side of the left frame rail. on the auto harness, you can cut everything that is connected to the tranny itself, nothing in teh harness in front of the harness. 2.Take off starter, and lay it to the side, remove the shifter linkage, rear driveshaft, front if you have it installed (i didnt), and rear hydro line. DRAIN YOUR TRANNY. i had a friend that didnt, and it was funny as hail....better yet, leave it full....its more funny for your friends 3. Put a tranny jack under your tranny, dont worry about your engine, it will automatically go into the position you need to remove the tranny. remove the tranny member, and the mount as well, so you dont damage it. on the tranny-take out all the bolts, and keep 3 of the bottom ones, the two for the starter, and throw the rest away take the ones you kept, and go to the hardware store, get ones that are about a half an inch to an inch longer, as well as a number of washers, in case the ones you got were too short the bolt size is M10 1.5 i don't remember my length, i will measure it tomorrow for you guys. pull the damn thing already....whats taking you so long!!! Ok so its out, now for hte fun part Breaking apart your old harness and splicing into the new one Hopefully you were smart and bought the manual power harness (the one from the battery to the alt. to the starter etc etc etc) if not, go get it, your an idiot. so now, lay the old auto one, and the manual one side by side there is a grey 6 pin plug (wow its the one i told you to make note of in front of the alternator). You need to separate that from the auto harness. THe manual harness does not have it with it, so you need to put them together. I dont know what sensors they are, but i broke one clip, and couldnt find hte plug for another, so we will see what they are when i start it up right? so go ahead and dismantle the Auto harness, and remove the wires and plugs and integrate them and your almost done! THe two white wires, ont eh manual harness they should be on a ring terminal cut it off on teh auto harness, they are on a plug cut it off put the plug from the auto to the manual so that it plugs in, and its not a ring terminal wiring is done plug it all in....and go to the interior tear it all out Its that simple unbolt everything, i didnt have to drop any columns, or naything, take your trim off, and take everything off. those bolts on the airbag module, if you don't have the right socket, use vicegrips, i did also if you use the 260RS center, you need hte new bracket for hte airbag and Gmeter box thing, it moves it all back to make room for the new compartment. blah blah blah get it all out thats all you get for right now. heres some pictures for your enjoyment the left over parts so far the tranny tunnel from teh 260rs is there as well, thats where i got my ebrake bracket from, an hour of drilling and prying got it all off. self explanitory 260 center console engine shot baller but i didnt put it in, im ordering a new throwout bearing for it, and plates. they are .1 under the limit. exedy is in there now VG30det turbo with cheater (screamer pipe)gate got em for 50 bucks, adn they work the turbo is a bolt on, so i have a spare

im starting a new manual conversion thread so everyone can actually benefit

yeah, his N1s are maxed out, time to upgrade ill be happy with my measley 400 on an rb25 but why are you using nitrious instead of a larger turbo? I dont know about aussie but NOS Is like 200 bucks a small bottle to build. at that price its more economical to pay for a larger turbo to me. But sitll, your number is impressive what turbo was that on?

if you need nitrous to get 650HP, you need to build your motor a little better A real good friend just dynoed his r32 at 600HP. with no nitrous and N1 turbos

no, they dont If you lay the manual and auto harness side by side RIght where the alternator branches out (or maybe the starter) there are 4 plugs on the auto version, i removed the auto to put in the manual like i always do, and im missing a few plugs. WHo needs sensors anyways and yes, pics woudl be great

mine came with all the lineage and everything but i do have a few questions If you use hte Autech Manual power line (that goes from teh battery, to the alternator, to the starter back) It has like 4 or 5 plugs less than the auto one why? (ill find out tomorrow if it will start up without them) also, you can use the bracket off the old tranny tunnel from a manual, it just takes some work took me about an hour to remove the bracket. but it works with some 10mm bolts holding it on. im just worried about all the plugs left over that arent used, or no plugs for places there were

well thats no fun

your getting on the throttle wayyyy too late It should be spinning when you ENTER the turn

Ok It is a FULL dayz compliment all the parts on the outside are dayz works are 18x9 +20 all around with a 20mm spacer in teh front wellll its not too bad Tranny is out Ebrake relocated Pilot bushing in flywheel on gotta do the clutch pedal and the brake pedal manual harness is in alternator and starter are wired up there are a bunch of plugs that arent on the manual harness, so im just gonna see if it works...if not il deal with it then should be putting in the HKS twin plate, adn tranny tomorrow along with the pedals and clutch master and slave cylinder.

starting the 5 speed swap in about 2 hours....wish me luck