yokotas13

you could also go quick release as well I had an r33 hub, NRG quick release hub, and nardi suede 350mm wheel plenty of leg rom

everytime i change them i just take a big brass hammer take hte nut off...give it one or two big whacks on the side not directly on the stud thing nad it pops right out.

s13s will fit z32 outters will fit with skyline inners they are all the same really, just different diameters and such i think the r32 may be a little longer or something? Ive replced my tie rods on my s13 with r32.

it sa ballast, wiring and a bulb thats it my kit is plug and play (not in yet though still shipping) you plug your stock harness into the HID harness, then it goes from there.

and ya know, i think i described it a little wrong its like a gurgley stutter at high RPMs.... I replaced the pugs with some new NGKs i had sent from teh states, it made an improvment but the coilpack shoudl eliminate everything

i reccomend the Delphis ok well they were reccomended to me by a few places apparently the splitfires are shunned in japan becuase of their difficulty in reliability or something? I talked to a local shop about an upgrade, and they rececomended delphi which are cheaper than splitfire as well.

it sounds like my problem have your coilpacks checked one or two might be weak...that was my problem it like hiccups for a few seconds at the top of the RPM range, then lets a small backfire out as it shifts to the next gear. i got some NGK plugs that i have to put in and my coilpack, hopefully it will go away

well, we have it isolated, its a weak coilpack, and i have 3 on the way from osaka japan. we actually hooked the pack up to a tester, and it wasnt putting out even or enough voltage.

i know S14 rods will work in the rear camber arm toe rod traction rod

rear links Camber arms, toe rods, and tension rods all are interchangable with s14....i have installed and verified. i have my own on order

its completely removed i have an AVCR in place. im gonna reset my ecu tonight and see if it goes away.

its in the car It happens when im not moving and rev the engine to build boost Its not in the engine either, looked there. Its just ..odd

with no AC on, no radio on its a ticking sound. i had a friend ID where it was comming from while he was in the car one day. I dont notice a loss of power at all, its just annoying

so i hear a ticking sound form my ECU under boost why is it doing this? Ive never had an ECU growl at me lol

im going to see what i can do about whiteline from the US and have it shipped here. shouldnt be too much But as an update trying to research which rear toe rods are the same. If i had a copy of FAST i could do it myself. I ordered 8000k dual beam HIDs shoudl be here next week Bought some puddle lights bought two 12s and an amp for a temporary setup until i fiberglass my setup and order my real equipment got an alignmet today, its horribley still toe out in the rear, but since its been adjusted camber wise and as much toe as possible, i have almost 2 inches of clearance between shock and wheel. no more rubbing issues i see, but i ned to roll the rear fenders a tad more. the kit never got ordered by my "friend" so im debating if i want to order it through someone else, or buy more go fast and handle fast parts. i have yet to decide

1. I love that there arent solid engine mounts 2. I love that it doesnt leak....yet 3. I love the torque over an SR 4. Electric seats 5. Interior design, very european 6. two sunroofs so i can be a video car 7. great acoustics for stereo 8. the lack of woodgrain

well, right now horribly when im done and dial in the spring rates to help with body roll in addition to the correct rear sway bar when someone figures out what car to use it from since its obviously not a GTR rear sway (200 dollar lesson) i think it will handle well once i get everything done.

well, im workign on finding a spare rb25, hell they are only 300-500 bucks

350ho is what an SR can make reliably, with two more cylinders id hope the RB can make more.

so what is a "reliable" HP number off a series 2 rb25?

rear sway bar is not an r33 GTR it is too narrow

what do you reccomend else i do? ive heard of 600+ HP on stock block RBs.

eit is the greddy oil filter relocation kit it was around 150USD new. it has two temp ports, and an oil pressure port It uses the same oil filter the RB normally uses as well, so no need to find a weird threaded filter. It mounts in conjunction with the fuel filter. uses the same holes and bolts. its extremely well made, and i reccomend it to anyone.

yeah, thats the truth isnt it But i cant continue to diagnose it until it comes back. THe only other thing i can do at this point is replace suspect parts, which im going to do, and check wiring

not stock, well stock bottom end at that point i woudl have cams, headgasket, etc etc.