yokotas13

there is a stagea specific one, i have one cusco make sone, around 80 USD

1: Horriblt front suspension design, needs an S chassis (180/240type) front setup 2. Horrible rear suspension angle that lets me hit my wheels on the coilovers 3. Lack of areas to mount gauges nad other random toys 4. THe stupid cupholders that wont hold a 20 Oz bottle 5. The fact i dont have heated seats 6. Lack of aftermarket support.

yeah, try and hide that monster I can find you a used AVCR for around 350-400

what do you want more pics of?

:Shrug: it is the kit specifically for hte stagea. ill have to take a closer look at the instructions to find out where. but its not a universal kit, so it has to go somewhere

sway bars will be here friday

but htey are huge!!! they only look good in 600 HP cars lol

if you get an EBC the only ones id reccomend are the Apexi AVCR, adn the Greddy profec B do not get a profec B spec 2, they are horrrrible at holding boost. I personally use an AVC-R. best boost controller on the market, hands down

i read about half hte thread, and i just wanted to make sure before i went and spent 450 bucks on sway bars r33 GTR do bolt up? Im going to be getting the cusco 24/30mm adjustables

Ohrly Mine wasnt all fancy with factory TVs. i haev a pioneer flip out lol

i dont think i have quite made a post in here yet so i will 18x9 +0 offset with spacer to clear GTR brakes 18x10 +20 no spacer Problems if you do not have rear toe arms and camber arms, going low is a problem in the rear for sure. You need to put a decent roll on the rear, so you can get as near to 0 camber static as possible to keep from hitting the coilovers. as wwell as a stiff springrate and sway bars will help this fact as well. Front....well im still working on that. but they kinda fit. I spraypainted the inner well so i can find out where it is rubbing, right before full lock it rubs somewhere, but at full lock it doesnt, so i have to figure that out. other than that at my current height, no big problems, or at least nothign that a little thinking and money wont fix. tires are 235/40 front and 245/40 rear soon to be a 225/40 front and 235/40 rear once i decide to go get them

but see, if you drive your car everyday, that means you need thos gauges even MORE!!! think of it the likelyness of something going wrong on the track, in a well taken car of car, with 20 minute sessions, figure 5 session a track day. Arent very high if everything is operating correctly (or at least in my host of trackdays ive never had a problem) where most people have problems that need monitoring are in fact in daily driving. the stop and go traffic, and sitting in traffic, put more abuse on your engine on a regular basis than that one single tracday. your car is mor elikely to overheat, oil temp to rise, while in traffic. i hate gauges too, but i have some on the way, becuase well.....its a necessity

why dont you go up there with me, they didnt quite understand what i was trying to do.....maybe you can help me out? i need something that is shorter than this from bottom of tophat to bottom of the shock (out of lower bracket) is 33 cm with the lower bracket it is 36 cm i need like a 30-32 cm shock possibly shorter

if it is an RCA wired camera, it should work fine (mostly i havent had a problem with mine in the past) mount the camera run the rca to the front of your car. Hhook up the reverse wire from your headunit to the reverese source ont eh stagea (i have no clue, i still have to hook up mine) prolly for the reverse light wires depending on if they need a negative or positive signal adn hten plug your RCA into the revers camera input done! and if you want it to run al the time Plus it into the auxiliary plug not the reverse plug, and hook the power wire from the camera to a source that is only on for ignition sources.

just to touch on the EBC vs MBC thing just straight up functionality, keeping the frills out I have seen firsthand on higher HP cars (350+) that a manual has a problem holding boost at higher levels, while an EBC doesn't in many cases. Ive seen a number of MBC (halman, greddy etc etc) that cant hold their own on the top end, but the same manufacturers EBCs work flawlessly. just a bit of info ive observed

so which turbo timer would you reccomend for him?

yeah at like 11

tanaka wont do it scotty but a guy back home is a distributor for the same shit that was on my 180 and he can get 20mm shorter front shocks and custom springrates with the shocks valved to match. for an ass kickcing price

f**k thanks!!!! why have i been reading 4/6 for an rb25? stupid people

ok, started fabbing up the exhaust today i have all the piping from the cat to the sway bar done. i have to pick up some more 3 inch pieces and pie cut and weld them to make the s shape right there. my aero will be here friday my gauges should be nere in a week and a half ORdered a greddy oil filter relocation kit Ordering NRG Fuel pressure regulator nad AEM UEGO monday ordering cusco r33 GTR sway bars monday and hopefully have my wheels sold so i can get some 9s in the rear so i can go uber low.

you gave me the wrong in and out I need the one for the first menu i knwo the second in out is 1/1 come on guys, i know someone has an safc2 they can just go out to and get these two numbers for me.....

i get like 300 KM to a 15 gallon tank i did however just replace al my pads iwth endless brake pads for around 300.00 (usd)

noone has the settings?

i know its a hotwire thats about the only thing im 100% sure of i check the safc support online, and didnt see the in and out settings. i cant finish hooking this thing up without them

so just wondering i cant seem to find all the information on the net the sensor is a hotwire is throttle up or down and what is the in and out numbers?