mike_a31

slightly off topic but can any1 tell me what sort of performance a lap top requires to run the EMU software? I'm lookin to buy a EMU soon and was gonna grab an old 2nd hand laptop purely for tuning as i have to much other stuff on my current laptop.

SnapOn make an awsome one under the Blue Point name is without a toubt one of the lowest trolleys jacks i have ever seen. When dropped down the front of the jack is about 40mm high but they still raise up to about 500mm if i could afford it i would buy one straight out. I made some little MDF wood ramps to get a lil extra clearance when jackin my car. Very simple just 3 piece of 15mm MBF all cut at diffrent lenghts then glued on top of each other. Then stuck a piece of rubber mat on the bottom to stop them slipping on the concrete as i drive up onto them. very effective and i have been using the same ones for about 5 years now.

This is a long shot idea i was told about and i am still a bit skeptical about it but might b worth a try. Been told when the car is cold the ecu automatically makes the cars idle jump a lil to try warm it up. If the thermostat is jammed open this means the car is gettin fed cold coolant and can take alot longer to get up to temp. SO as such the engine remains cold and the idle jumps a lil to try increase engine temps. Then after a while all the coolant has gone thru the engine and is at a temprature that the engine itself is warm and the idle settles down. As i said i'm a bit skeptical about that whole idea does sound like one of them bullshit storys a dodgy mechanic might feed you to try hide the fact they have no idea what a cars problem is.

i havent pulled the crank pulley off. I just put a timing light on it cos car was feelin sluggish so wanted to check the timing.

can some1 confirm for me if i have this the right way, my timing marks on the crank pulley go: -5 0 +5 +10 +15 +20 is that right or is the first mark -10? cheers mike

while drivin my RB20det ceffy on thursday night it started to develope a missfire at high revs and boost, after i started to baby the car home at this stage to try stop any further damage. As i kept on drivin the missfire slowly got lower and lower in the rev range until it was missing at idle, after quick inspection i diagnosed it at failed coilpack. Went to wreckers got a new coilpack yesterday. Tried to start car this mornin was strugglin to start at first, got it runnin but was idling extremely low almost stalling then it did stall and hasnt started since. Just cranks over and tried to fire on what sounds like one cylinder. I tried fittin my coilpack only to find the RB20 one was wrong and motor is currently usin red top RB20 or CA18det ones. Anyway got correct coilpack thrown in it and still has same problem motor cranks over ok but wont fire into life. I'm thinkin now that the igniter module has died, after i tried crankin the motor over 2 or 3 times the ignitor module was warm to touch, is this normal? Is there anyway i can test the module with a multimeter b4 i go try track down another one?? Anyone got any other ideas where the problem could lie?

Need some one or more coilpacks for RB20det in cefiro. Need these ASAP and will pick up anywhere in metro area. cheers mike

hahaha yeh i couldnt agree more, i know exactly where to get some 25mm hub centric spacers from and what price, just had a million bills arriving at the moment. soon as i have the spare cash i'll b gettin some.

dunno if r32 is the same but on my S13 if the brake fluid level was low the handbrake light used to come on.

Does any1 know if iits possible to buy R32/A31 drum handbrake shoes from supliers like bendix or lucas? Or will i have to go directly to nissan for them? Any1 have a part number? cheer mike

Ken Nomura used to drift the Blitz R34 sedan pretty well.

It may seem strange but i was having problems with mine havin varied boost levels while driving, i have since then mounted the MBC vertical as b4 it was on its side kinda tucked down the back of the power steering resvoir. Since mounting it vertical i have noticed no more vaired boost levels, smashes straight up to 15psi and holds there strong.

went down and bought myself some 3" exhaust pipe from local exhaust place this mornin so i could make new tail pipe(s). Unfortunatly neither of the exhaust places i went to could supply a 3" 2->1 adapter so i bought a bit extra pipe and had to f**k about for nearly 2hours cuttin, bending, welding then bendin some more to make a nice unrestrictive Y piece. Got it all together and f**k me is it loud still has cat and a center muffler but has an awsome real deep burble to it. pics:

u might only b able to get 0.7 bar as ur lowest due to the weight of the ball bearing and the spring resistsance still holding wastegate shut just that lil bit longer. Just a guess.

lol thats a bit excesive dryin time. 2-pac drying times 40min @ 80deg or 12 hrs at 25deg They r pretty much the standard dryin times for most 2 pac products. To buff 2pac after 2 weeks would b a nightmare by that time wit will b rock solid and u will have to really work the buffing pad hard to buff out any paint defects.