25t

joel i must have got lucky ,i didnt change the spigot bearing ,did measure though,just bolted the gearbox up. car is sold now ,new owner ran at drags 2 weeks ago did a 12.8 in street trim

yes

Hey all Guilt toy good work rb30det + PFC would be fun good fun can you tell me more about you turbo set-up,I looked at rx7 turbo onto my rb30det but was advised on this forum that it would be futile currently building a track car and have the rx7 turbo still ,i was hoping to fit it is the turbo responsive from down low? do you have a list of what you have done to your engine in buildup? sorry for the bombardment of questions cheers

i lowered mine with r33gtr front shocks and springs(bolt straight in) back shocks were fitted with gtr springs front is 50mm lower than standard rear is about 30mm lower than standard lots of gtr shocks floating around cheap coss everyone fits flashy shocks to them!!! ride is actually better with these fitted than standard cheers

thanks i apreciate your reply do you knowif they can they be rebuilt with garret exhaust housing and wheel????????

can i ask for more info please ???,big exhaust housing ???

will this be any good on a rb30det?????????

inasnt i live in a town with 30000 people, elf racing store is but a dream methanol is obviously better than toluene but paint thinners are easy to come by in this hicksville how do u inject methanol anyway?

my 30det does this also,crimped rocker hose once and lost oil pressure at idle,scary stuff the pcv valve (just back from vvt solinoid on inlet side of motor) is plumbed into the inlet manifold ,at idle ur motor is like a NA and is sucking air into the engine ,the plenum is under vacuum until boost is applied

methanol??? now how do you get hold of that stuff??sounds very serious like drag rail serious , i just drive a family skyline which i use to scare the wife with toluene is very easy to get and is quite good at stopping detonation,im running 27degs advance tell me more (please)about your install qic33, where did u locate the injector,pressure of fuel system,switched on how?? would an injector directly after the throtle body butterfly cause 1 & 6 to run lean??

is this a stupid thing to try??? i would have it installed via a solinoid to operate under higher boost mainly to stop detonation. if its a goer what CC injector?? someone must have tried this??

Re sumps the 25t sump has some fins (2) at the rear end above the baffle plate ,rb30 sump doesnt have ,these fins touch the crankshaft and sound just like a run bearing!!!!!!!,strangley it couldnt be heard or felt when turning the motor over by hand before installing,quite heart breaking having to remove motor to fix this but relief to find this rather than a bearing!! so remove fins from 25t sump or use rb30 sump

Joel the dyno sheet is not a computer print out such as the ones guys post around here ,but is a hand written sheet with the fuel ratios and h/poer in each gear ill try and scan it and post

had to travel 1000+ks but it was worth it, 280hp at wheels with 14psi boost(did see peak 300hp but dyno sheet says 280) for those who dont know i have bolted the 25t head onto a rb30 na bottom ,im still running the 25t ecu,turbo,injectors,intercooler,etc mobs are simply K&N pod full 4inch exhaust and elect boost controller had problems with my original bleed valve making spikes up to 17psi and causing boost cut had to buy and fit a ebc fuel mixtures were fine, still running rich at full boost though ,obviously the 370cc injectors are up to the task the only thing that caused concern was the timing having to run at 27deg advance to preform ,this had the dyno mech rather confused ,a few degrees more and detonation was heard SYDNEY KID/ Anyone do you have any idea why the hybrid has to run so advanced to make power do i need adjustable cam gears????? all the same ,im very impressed with the cheeap hp, sure beats forged pistons/aftermarket ecu on cost cheers

thanks boosted /sydneykid soo, whats better a z32 afm or bcd??? im not going to run boost any higher than 14psi as i still have the 25t turbo installed cheers

boosted /guys can you go into more detail with regard to the boost cut being calculated via time verses afm voltage, do you meen that when the afm is maxed out on air flow the voltage across the "hotwire" is at its peek and the ecu has a time limit preset to shut things down??? cheers

hi Guys ive been driveing my rb30det for 2 weeks, i suggest that its an ideal conversion for a 25t as ive used all the standard parts from the 25 and retained the vvt, Just as Sydney kid has written this motor was only the third engine rebuild ive undertaken and really its quite a simple motor ,the only thing which is a bit of a drama is fitting a oil hose from the oil sender port to the vvt /front inlet cam bearing im running the standard 25t series 1 turbo ,injectors with 25 deg advance ,no shit this thing is way faster than the 25t,NO lag just full boost all the way form 1500rpm (bleed valve) i had to remove my struct brace(no name brand) Guilt-Toy try around pages 5&6 Joel posted a link which showed the vvt/cam feed hose mods Guys stop talking/start doing, its cheap and easy horsepower cheers

Hi all Joel the exhaust was tight but because i only have a rear muffler it bolted up without hassle ,its quite tight to the floor and knocks on the floorpan when the car is started ,will be changed soon as the things too bloody loud and the police can instant off the road for loud exhausts in NZ now! GUYS regardless of weather you want the VVT you dont have an option , as the RB30 block has only 2 oil feed ports to the head (the RB25 has 3) you have to supply oil to the inlet Cam front bearing Journal and the only way it can be feed is via the vvt Gallery, even with after market cams . cheers

Hi Dennis/all ive never been down a drag strip ,so i dont know a time,at the moment with the boost set low 6psi its as quick as the 25t was with the boost up at 12psi. its not been driven very hard yet as its only done 250ks comsumption seems to be about the same as the original rb25 ,im guessing but the ECU still thinks its 2.5ltrs so the fueling etc is as if it was 2.5ltr ,as soon as the boost is on they run rich anyway? Sydney kid ,when i get to a Dyno what are the basic things i should be getting checked/changed? costs = rb30 motor $200 rings/bearings $200 gaskets/lipseals $100 acid bath,gallery brush,frost plugs$50 oil hose/fittings for VVT $100 cheers

Hi all as suggested i have advanced the timeing to 20deg, made a huge diffrence ,no stuters anymore just to confirm ,this motor was built with the lowest cost in mind all 25t parts that could be used were, oil pump,water pump,oil cooler etc VVt has been retained with the use of a oil hose from the rb30 oil pressure sender port which was plummed into the vvt feed gallery as per a link Joel posted a few pages back. the rb30 block was given rings and bearings(not needed) as it was the correct thing to do while it was in bits.the RB30 only cost $200 complete I tried to install the rb25 piston squirtersinto the rb30 block(disaster) the oil gallery casting is too thin and when installed the squiters restricted oil flow to the mains and bigends,a post from Sydney kid stated that the squirters were not necessary so i capped the holes. the motor feels stronger/torquey across the rev range and running 6psi boost feels like the 25t did with 12psi. the only other issue worthy of noteing is the bonnet only just closes ,sadley the strut brace has had to be left off. I guess there is always some tradeoffs cheers

Hi All after alot of ISSUES the rb30 twin cam turbo is alive.seems to be a problem with the VVt as about 5000rpm it stuters and coughs due to $$$$cost the standard turbo,injectors and ecu have had to make do for the time being. the rb30 block is also standard NA internals ,all seems well can anyone suggest a safe boost pressure to run it at? thanks to this topic/post it has been possible for me to do this conversion ,much appreciation goes out to all who added to it. now to find a dyno and get a checkup. cheers

hi all no i mean that the head has oil return/drain line that is plummed into the block just above the sump level, Dave the turbo drain point is on the block / i plan to plum the head drain into this point as well will take a pic to explain my rambling.

Hey guys how do you do the qoute thing? I said a wee while back the series 1 na blocks are stronger/thicker castings,the only fitting not in the series 1 casting is the turbo water return line,which isnt a really big problem, i was wrong,the water line is there ,the fitting that is missing is an oil drain from the head into the sump ,will plum it into the turbo drain line cheers

hi the series 1 na blocks are stronger/thicker castings,the only fitting not in the series 1 casting is the turbo water return line,which isnt a really big problem, be aware that if you intend fitting the neo head or the vvt head then You will need to feed the oil from somewher else

HI NA block is ok. Joel / Steve have more info than me on whats what with the blocks