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happy birthday mate!

saw a charcoal R32 turning onto anzac ave. at kallangur about 30 minutes ago 2 minutes later i spotted 33SKY on Dohles Rocks Road Spotted Troy, Terry, AJ, Andrew & Anna in Kingaroy last night!

errr.... yes, rb26s13... its been done as for my personal experiences with mechanics/workshops, i have found alot of the 'big name' workshops are con-artists who do dodgey work and charge you through the nose for it... my personal opinions: Mercury Motorsport - would never use them again, not even for an oil change Tuned Automotive - probably wouldn't use them again, though they are nice guys and try hard to make you happy. Allstar Tuning - nice guys, know their skylines, would use them again. Chapman & Chapman - If you don't own a GTR, or something running an RB26, forget it, they don't want to know you. Elite Racing Developments - Would use him again Excellent guy, goes out of his way to help people out.

do you have a boost gauge in it? (can't tell what that gauge is on the dash from those pics) if so, what boost are you running? oh, and welcome The car looks excellent, and the paint is in really good nick judging by those photos... its making me jealous...

don't bin it p.s. i'm jealous

yeah, i gave them a fairly good punishing over the last few days, like some really hard stops, and not only once, but repeatedly...

bendix ultimates better than ferodo DS2500? don't think so... though i guess it depends on what you're looking for in a brake pad...

congratulations you guys! awesome name too

Hi all, well, i finished my brake upgrade... I now have fitted to the car: DBA4000 Slotted rotors on the front Machined standard rotors on the rear Ferodo DS2500 Brake Pads front and rear Motul RBF600 fluid... anyway, i have driven softly on this setup (just day-to-day driving) for about 200km now, without really giving it any real heat etc, to give the rotors some time to bed in (as per DBA instructions, which say you should use the rotors for about 200 - 300km in everyday driving to bed the rotors in) anyway, that is done, so i thought i'd start trying to bed the pads in... took it for a drive, warmed the rotors up slowly first with long braking, and then a few harder stops, before really starting to stand on the brakes.... the thing is, it still didn't seem to pull up that well.... sure, its better than most standard cars, however, it is nowhere near the level that i was led to believe/hoping that these pads were at... i did many repeated hard stops, as it felt the pads weren't up to temp yet, yet it only marginally got better, sometimes it got worse (almost as if the pads were fading) after i got home (had a bit of a cooling off drive afterwards) i had a look at the thermal indicator paint on the discs, the first level (green) was a bit discoloured to a pinky/white colour, which has now gone back to green (either that, or i'm seeing things... do these paints change colour back to original after they've cooled down?) that green indicator states that the rotors have reached at least 458 degrees celcius... you can tell that the rotors have been warm, by the colouration of them (they haven't turned blue or anything though) and you can see some resin deposits in spots around the rotor, however, its not all the way around... just in spots.... this is from the Ferodo website on bedding in the pads: "When bedding in the car always try to bed on used rotors. If bedding on new rotors follow the rotor bedding instructions of the manufacturer, as it is important to heat cycle them first before bedding the pads. After fitting the new pads prepare the car by blocking off 50 percent of the brake cooling / air ducts to speed the “heat up time”. When leaving the pit lane apply brake gently at low speed to ensure pads are fitted correctly, build up temperature progressively to approx 350° C (670° F). This enables the heat to distribute around all areas of the pad. When brakes are at suitable temperature begin bedding process, achieve approximately 70 percent of race speed then perform 25-30 brake applications at half normal race pedal pressure holding on for 4 seconds. When this is completed use a slowing down lap to allow brakes to cool. Return to the pit lane and allow pads to cool completely, check rotor appearance. Transfer film should be constant around rotor face, any “patchy” deposit will result in brake pedal judder. The use of temperature paint on rotors enables more accurate bedding procedures." now obviously i can't bed the pads on a race track/at race track speeds etc.... any ideas of what i'm doing wrong/ways to improve my braking/bedding effectiveness?

was driving behind WAR32 on the way to work from Aspley to Newmarket this morning, around 6:15am woulda been a bit of a sight for other traffic... 2 x nice white R32 GTS-t's, both wingless.... looked like identical twins...

lookin good mate... can't wait to see the finished product

They come from south of the border

spotted '93TME' R33 on the M1 at the hyperdome heading down the coast last night about 8:30... on the way back i saw a gunmetal R32 with mexican plates, and also a darkish (black?) R33 (also mexican plates) at BP Coomera northbound around 1am

there are nearby residents on mt coo-tha?

grrrr :@ that makes my blood boil! What f**king right do they have to tell someone that they can't park in a public place?

put me down as a 'maybe' because i'm not sure what i'm working at that stage... haven't got my roster that far in advance yet

was built 06/1990

Have they released the name of the girl yet? I hope it wasn't my cousin She's from up rocky way and loves skylines.... around the right age too I'm sure i would have heard by now though... *fingers crossed it wasn't her*

I start the car and let it idle for a minute or 2, then i'll drive off-boost/low revs for 10 minutes. using 4100 turbolight

The lowest i'm prepared to go on this is $200 +shipping I believe one of the rims has a very slight buckle in it (you don't really notice it until you're doing about 130 - 140....) There is a slight amount of gutter rash on some of the rims, nothing OVERLY bad though... I can arrange to get some pics if you're still interested?

BOV and Seat SOLD! I'm open to offers guys... this stuff is just taking up room!

whats your VIN and i can check for you?

i think it was a joke

the dust honestly doesn't bother me that much

again, i haven't tried both, but i recently asked myself the same question.... i went with the Ferodo DS2500's... mainly because they suited my purposes more (i.e. track days etc) whereas if you were looking for a purely street pad the outcome could be different