Whooby

Did the fast bags thing in my celsior a few years ago. was good fun going up and down, and side to side. I had quicker valves than that Stagea. You need to have lots of air to make it go up and down a few times. I had some custom shocks made that were stiff enough to make it handle well Compressor was VERY noisey and took lots of power. Plus most of my boot space. Air suspension is good, but you need to aware of the risk of popping a bag. So i went back to the stock stuff. kept all the aftermarket goodies though.

Saw a Stagea towing an R33 once. Also watched it sway left and right down the freeway. Depending on your state laws about legal towing limits. If you're towing a Stagea with a Stagea then you're over the limit. Makes it easy for the police to work out you're over the limit. Be smart about it or your could lose 2 cars and a trailer. Or some points and a fine. Just over the QLD border the NSW police used to make people leave their trailers where they got stopped. It's your choice and that was just my 2 cents.

Hey Series 1 owners, Jeff at NizzPro has a Series 1 for wrecking - Get in quick. Hugh.

Our RS4 has this body brace. But our friends doesn't (haha Curt )

4 bald tyres means no cruising for us

I may have seen you in this Saturday night. Got off Beenleigh South Exit. heading in through Mt Warren Park. Your left outer tail light is also broken I was in the Celsior with the Japanese on the back window

We have a Mines ECU also, but we also have a stock ECU we tried for a while. You can notice a difference between the 2. fuel consumption is crap on both. the rev limit goes from 6800 to 7000 on ours. we don;t have a front mount but it might of had one in Japan. It bypassed the 'half boost' mode they have, with the 4psi then 8. Just goes straight up, didn't need to earth the solenoid. But it's been pretty good to have so far. no complaints, just uses too much fuel.

Here's another issue to add to the list. Had to drive around some dickheads which then decidied they wanted to turn left from the RIGHT lane meaning i had to brake quickly and downshifting at the same time to pull the car up. Went to go again and there was nothing. The damn thing had stalled!!!! I've noticed the last week or so when sitting at lights waiting to go the rev's seem to be a little low. If i move it to N and then back to D the revs go back to where they should be or if i accelerate a lil to creep fowards and stop the revs are fine again. So the question is:- TPS getting closer to dying??? Hugh.

Recaro's were already in the car when we almost bought it, almost 3 years ago. Came close to buying back then, but found ours a few months later. I may have turned off the traction control on the test drive i have some pics from it at the dealer ship too

Anyone have ideas on why the idle is slow to pickup? could be the key? or center of the problems.

Checked all the hoses many times. no boost leaks. seems to have an air leak after changing the injectors but hasn't made anything better or worse. previously no air leaks anywhere. Changing every hose may fix it, may not. Timing has always been crap. CAS is current in 'stock' position, timing gun and diag computer say idel is 0 deg. make sense of that !? timing belt lines up with gear markings.

Thanks all for suggestions. Josh - I've got the cable and some diag software. But it doesn't let you change much plus how am I to know what they should be saying? We cleaned heaps of crud out of the AAC valve. Put it back together and it was same same. Curt - Yeah within walking distance but I'll drive any way Thanks for the offer, we'll have to take you up on that. Not sure when weekend is looking a bit busy at this stage. I'll let Kim know. We're leaning towards something electrical being crap now........ Thanks again. Hugh.

TPS hasn't been tried with a diff one yet, i'll start tracking one down. ECU temp sensor perhaps, that's easy enough to try. a nistune wouldn't make a difference i don't think. having tried 2 other stock ecu's i ruled the Mines out as being stuffed or the problem.

thanks, but tried and failed there. no fault codes. Without knowing what thing's 'should' be it's a little hard. It was fine one day and then the next morning it went to how it is now. No changes to anything just Bam and its crap. Tried adjusting TPS made no change.

Hey All, I've posted about this before without success, but this time I've got videos (Thanks Curt). The car still has the standard side mount cooler, 3in exhaust, no boost controllers. I'll list out all the things we've tried and changed/swapped but now we're pretty much out of options. List of parts changed/tried: O2 sensor Coilpacks - now super sparks plugs - numerous times - cheap and expensive ones injectors factory return fuel line reg fuel filter fuel pump ECU temp sensor CAS Timing adjustment - advance and retard AFM Checked VAC hoses Cleaned cooler cleaned throttle body clean AAC valve - can still be heard opening/closing Even tried 2 different ECU's Bigger battery starter motor Checked for standard cam's I think that's all perhaps more but I'll update if I remember. Here are the videos. theses were all done one after the other The problem: When the car is cold trying to start is pretty much impossible without pushing the pedal. The video's pretty much explain it. The car cranks fine, has plenty of fuel entering the rail but with out pushing the pedal it will never start up. Even once it's running on it's own it's slow and lumpy to get up to the idle speed. First attempt to start: Second Try bit of pedal to make it fire, if you listen you can hear the idle pick up slowly. It ran for a couple of mins Starting again: Inside seeing gauges this time. As you can see once it's running it's very lumpy and sluggish to bring the idle up. The car runs quite rich, 450k's to a tank is just doable. There is a MiNes ecu in the car currently but this has had no effect, the other 2 ecu's do the same. When the car is running it's doesn't have any misses, flat spots, it's not down on power, it seems to be getting quicker the more things we try/change. But starting is still crap. When the car is hot and trying to start is starts pretty much straight away. That's what I can remember at the moment, feel free to ask questions might jog my memory about something else we've tried. But basically it's been like this 18mths though all the seasons and we've had just about enough. Any help PLEASE!!!!! Cheers, Hugh

We have the same wheels on our S2. Take note that there is a Front Pair and a Rear Pair (assuming they came off the same car). The offsets are the same back the backspacing was slightly different. Ours were miss matched, eg. Front axles had a Front wheel and a Rear wheel. Same for the back. Only reason we noticed was because one of the rear tyres was catching on the strut and slicing the side of the tyre. Only during cornering when there is the sidewall flex. It was only when we had both rear wheels off that we notice the inside numbering being different. And the words Front and Rear. Even though this was probably specific to the 350Z we had all tyres stripped and the wheels fitted to the right axles. So even the M35's are a little different underneath keep and eye on them and you might save yourself a set of tyres

PM sent re: injectors.

I'll take the injectors!!! PM Sent.

There is a couple of relays down there. next to the ECU. But you only hear them before you start the car. I have a ticking sound when I take off, but i think from some reading it was the AWD system doing its thing. i think? Safe boost is about 10 should keep the turbo from crapping out. If its always ticking does it sound mechanical or electronic? Get a passenger to have a listen while you drive to see exactly where it's coming from. Hugh.

Ahh I see. So the traction control closes the throttle to stop the wheels from spinning? Or does it have a sensor for the ABS too? I thought in most cases(on my Celsior for example) the Traction control is managed with the ABS system. Thanks guys. How much truth is in the silver writing covers being a series 2 motor with the different turbo? Do Series 2 Stageas have 3 variations like the Skyline? It'd be nice to know I/we have the stronger turbo variant.

Hello all, After trying to work out whats wrong with the damn thing with it not starting, i started looking at the pics of the Neo motor's more closely. There is the Red writing covers and the silver writing covers. But i noticed that a red writing cover has a cylinder/solenoid perhaps on the intake pipe just before the throttle body ***See Pic*** And the other silver writing cover doesn't have it, just the blanked off plate. (My Stagea) ***see pic*** See also this thread - The red writing cover doesn't have the 'thing' on the intake pipe......?!?!? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ne...es-t285232.html So the questions are who has this 'thing' on their car, who knows what it's for? And Why are Neo's so annoyingly different to the earlier RB25's ? I found these threads have some info about the different turbo's, so possibly there was 3 versions of the Neo RB25 (Not including N/A) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ne...es-t285232.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...54#entry1527454 Feel free to shed some light. Hugh.

These are great, if you want an easy relatively cheap mod a chipped ECU is a good one. there is a noticeable difference between the stock and MiNes computers. They are rare to make good use of the exchange rate and buy it! Not sure if a NisTune board can go on one or not yet, but if it works you've pretty much got a fully unlocked ECU that'll work with your Auto.

I'm pretty sure it's a 38mm, I wouldn't be able to confirm until later tonight. It was a special trip to the Truck Parts shop to get it.

I had to do the passenger side too, had to get a 38mm socket and a breaker bar. from memory i only undid the axle nuts and the 38mm end nut and managed to wiggle it out. It was about 18months ago now so I can't remember exactly how I got it out. I have a scar about an inch long as a reminder though, so be careful!

I have one too. The break down on the MiNes site is they remove 180kph limiter, up the rev limiter. Advance timing and change other little tweaks. But if it was a special order it may also allow higher boost levels, exhaust, etc. You can try sending them an email to find out the exact specs but good luck.