3340TH

Well my problem is definitely my outer bushes, so i need new ones (or Lube? but the bloke who did the wheel alignment said he couldn't get it any straighter???), and new tyres as well So can anyone tell me what sorta bush i should be looking at for this, considering anything, but super pro's. genuine : being rubber? polyurethane (adjustable or non?) Can you adjust your camber with the non's and genuine?

I hate how shiny mine look during the day, if i could legally tint them i would. The ones shown in the picture look cheap. Too many normal cheap looking LED's, which means more can fail.

I seen those rims you got on a white 33, but they were goldish?? like that light gold idk, but i thought, i want them as soon as i saw them. This is them Is there a proper colour for this? or just gold?

how many different types of led ones are there? i have led ones on my car (one ring round the inner reflector, with chrome back reverse and indicator), i seen them on a white 33 in Sydney b4 i owned a white 33 and thought they looked awesome so i made sure i got them for mine when i did buy it they look a lot cleaner then the standard taillights.

The front inners require to be pressed out, at least mine did. I got soapy water in a squirt bottle and sprayed them to stop the noise to see if this is where the problem was.

My intermittent noise was coming from my ball joint. Cheap fix. was intermittent for ages then stopped, drove it for 4hrs on a highway, crossed a cattle grid then the noise came back.

yeah, i had a few problems with the whole situation of things, but i got them to put the aftermarket adjustable outers in, as this is what they thought was the problem and it wasn't. But they've been wound out to max and they are that tight that, if i go up to the car now, and push down on the suspension it will squeak. Im not sure which way to go...what's the pros and cons of adjustable - standard - genuine? i need to get this sorted shortly as ill get the mech to do it next service which is months overdue as it is. I was looking at nolathane ones.

Hi i once had a problem with knocking noise from the front left tyre/suspension, turned out to be the ball pin joint, but in the process other things were replaced, i have new control arms, and had outer adjustable bushes put in while they were install cuz that's what was ordered in so i just took them. They were superpro adjustables. I ended up getting a wheel alignment done not too long ago, to try get more k's outta my tyres, apparently they had to fully adjust the bushes to max, and there is still a bigger camber on that side over the right hand side. Fair enough i thought ok i will sort it later, but ever since they maxed it out, im getting squeaking from every bump movement and just makes it sound like im driving a heap. The question is do i replace the bushes, if so what with...same/different brand, adjustables or non-adjustables, or am i looking in the wrong place? what is the cause of throwing them out too far? ive had these bushes in for prob 3 years max. thnx

I bought the car in 06 and was on it then..i just pulled it out then, trying to find an allen key that will fit it right...but it looks as though i can remove the whole plate, but also the trumpet goes inside the plate...so whether i can unscrew it from that plate is another story but i cant budge it atm. EDIT: It unscrews. Also whats the business with the hard soft with the tension of the spring. better hard or soft?

y's that? the part on the right goes back into the intake. 50% goes that way 50% goes out the trumpet. Would it damage something to put 100% back through the intake side?

mine looks a little different, the trumpet is on a rectangle plate. Same with the plumb back side, its got 4 allen keys holding each in place. http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a153/spiralsmurf/DSC01184.jpg

cheers...just did a google image search... are these plugs round? i was thinking that'd just be like a rectangle plate that replace the trumpet plate. Or is it round and goes in the hole and put the trumpet back on top of it?

I'm having a hard time trying to find this plate...how do i know what size it is? As in what do they measure when they say its a 19mm or a 29mm or a 38mm??

I wouldnt be able to tell you, but atm the it's venting out...and the other side (cuz it's 50/50?) connects back to the intake piping with all little hoses connected etc.

So i got defected for this item last night, owned the car for 4.5 years and never had a problem. It's a dual port turbosmart BOV, So the trumpet is on one side and the other is plumb back...i read up on this and apparently they come with a blanking plate. The BOV was on the car when i bought it so i didn't receive this item (Blanking Plate). I was under the impression that it could just be changed back without having to take the trumpet off, cuz the cop last night had to watch it go off. But if it is suppose to be removed and a plate put over the top, wouldn't you just defect all bov's with a trumpet? Anyways i don't mind having to stop it...Is there anything particular i need to watch for if i cap this off, or would it actually be considered better, performance wise? Where is the best place to find these covers? Cheers

Well there are fuses in line with the cabling. It's currently got 2 sets of 4 gauge coming off the battery and going straight into the cartridge looking fuses. Then goes to the 12v+ on the amp , and there is the wedge fuses in the amps. If this is ok, then should i still have a c/b inline - as i know my mate had to reset his as it tripped the breaker when it was turned up too loud. (if it can go in, since there are two power feeds do they go through the one c/b or two or just do the subs?) should i even worry about putting the speakers amp through the capacitor (there are 4x 6.5" on HPF) I've installed 3 sound systems into my older car and mates cars, and just use the kit that was bought to setup. just never done anything to do with 2 ohm or capacitor, and just want to have it safe without blowing anything up And the mrp m-1000 can have two subs going straight out of the + - side of speaker outlet? (ie doubled up on the terminal block) This creates 2 ohms for 2 subs? and it's 4 ohms if it's for 1 sub? I also have a fire extinguisher to go into the car...prob not the most convenient spot if i had a fire but is it safe in there with the subs/wiring? sorry bout all the questions

Its an alpine mrp-m1000...when i bought it, it sounded like they said i could just parallel them, have both go back to the same terminals. So how do you find/decide what size circuit breaker you need? so from battery to c/b, then would you put the inline fuse b4 or after the capacitor? So a C/B should be in every installation? or only if it's wired a specific way? Cuz atm i have 2 400w 4-channels coming straight off the battery with only inline fuses on the active 4 gauge cable...the bloke i bought it off wired it up himself apparently and did custom installs for autobarn part-time :S

Hi, currently have re-made the boxes for my r33 skyline. I have gone from a 4 channel amp to a mono amp. I believe i have 4 gauge cabling. Im guessing i have only a single coil sub (x2)...alpine R 12" about 5+ years old as there is only one spot for cables so i wire from the positive of the amp to positive of the sub, go from negative of that sub to the positive of the next sub, then from the negative of that sub to the negative of the amplifier? correct?? Now i have inline fuses b4 the amps, im guessing these are to protect the cable? and not the amp (as the amp has it's own)? I only ask cuz my mate got his professionally done, and they threw a circuit breaker in b4 the inline fuses (may have been even b4 the capacitor, then out of the capacitor to the fuses, to the amp :S i'd have to re-check). Is this needed? what sort of damage can be done. I have a 2 farad capacitor to go in aswell. thnx in advance.

I thought this was the case on my r33, when i sprayed a lubrication at the inner bushes on the control arm, it would stop making noises, i bought a second hand one and had it replaced, but just for shits and giggles we pressed the old bush out of the arm, and made an absolute mess of the bush, but could not find any replacement bushes that were made for that part of the arm. After a month the clunking noise came back so i thought the second hand one was stuffed, so i bought two new upper control arms for $570 from nissan, same thing again, it was all good until i drove over a cattle grid halfway to brisbane. Turns out the clunking noise was just a Stabilizer Link Pin and was shot inside cost $100 to repair. As for the fulcrum bushes, i replaced the outside bush with the adjustable camber ones from fulcrum, and now it is done up that tight it squeaks every bump driveway, and i still have a large camber. So i will need to get this fixed. What sort of bushes can i replace the outside bushes with. Was thinking polyurethane again, and would they have to be adjustable ones, even if they come in some sort of kit, i may consider buying this way. What's a different fairly good brand i could replace with? Cheers.

What are these rims called been trying to trace them down, they gotta look better than my advanti stalkers. page 6, the black rig it didn't quote properly

well i finally recieved my series 1 garnish after the other one f'd up with the paint. made the circuitry about 3 years ago and is still not in my car. it may sound like a stupid question but what is the paint called that is on your car, and will this paint stick to an acrylic base paint. As i was going to get a spray painter to do this, this time, as the other one wasn't the right colour. But as it is plastic you need a plastic adheaser right? then i was going to mask up the letters and paint it black (acrlyic) and leave it masked up ready for proper white spray QM1. Didn't want to give the masking job to them as it may stuff up cuz you really need a sharp stanley and bit of patience to cut around the letters. Will this work? an info would be great as i did plan to have this on my car about 3 years ago and has still not happened.

If it's genuine, that is a cheap buy, what's with all the rofl about $380? ppl and their fibreglass I don't need one, I paid about 500 for genuine, freshly painted in white and paid for a mate to pick up. and was slightly damage in the mount holes, and I thought that was cheap. Good luck with the sale

Yes they do but it came as an option not all r33 gtrs have rear pods.

I was looking at pods but the kit is cheaper than the pods atm. Y would it hang lower than the sideskirts on there? aren't they all sorta the same size?

does anyone have a photo of a trial rear bumper on a car? i cannot find a photo of one on a car. anywhere... If i had standard series 2 sideskirts would i go bumper or gtr rear pods? don't want it to look silly