R34GTFOUR

ceramic coating works wonders though

looks great thanks again

is this still going ahead?

*points and screams at wogboy* its a NISMO BAR hahahaha nismo nismo nismo.... Howie go get that catalogue

VCT is good for a daily driver and most will say its worth the effort (its not hard to connect, just a simple oil feed) If you running big cams and big turbos and arent worried about the down low repsonse and cant be bothered hooking it up thats fine, a few people that have done the conversion havent connected it and its fine, but if you were running stock cams i would definately hook it up. The rb25de vct bolts straight up the same as the r32 rb25de head, you just have to block the oil feed on the bottom of the head on the vct head, its all in the rb30 pdf though

what does it sound like when cranking? is it no hint of a spark or splutter? or is it just completely dead and turning over? can you smell fuel? is your fuel pump working? is it definately pumping fuel to the rail? after cranking it over for a minute, if you take the spark plugs are they wet with fuel or dry? have you tried taking the spark plug out, connecting the coil to it, earth the plug out like it was in the block, then crank it over and physically see a strong spark? how old is the fuel in your tank? is it off? what ecu are you using? what injectors are you using? what cas are you using?

Just to set it all straight R34 GT (na brakes) are exactly the same as the r33 gts brakes, they are a 2pot front/1 pot rear (neither have nissan printed on them) The R33 gtst brakes are 4pot front and 2pot rear, but are totally different (rotors are larger aswell and calipers have nissan on them) The R34 GT-T brakes are 4pot front and 2 pot rear, but are totally different to the gtst brakes (bigger again) If you want to upgrade na R34 brakes, the "bolt on" upgrade is to get r33 gtst rotors and calipers. The R34 GT-T brakes dont bolt staight up, the main bolt hole needs to be drilled out to fit the bigger bolt from the GT-T setup

good stuff

nismo make more than one kit its a nismo bar

i've just searched and read through a few different threads but none are clear cut (i have been at uni for while so my eyes are half asleep so i may of missed it ) Some say the r31 cable works others say its double the length required Some some the vl cable works, but if thats the same cable as a r31 it may not. Some say the sr20de cable fits perfectly Some say just get the stock one modified (which i wouldnt want to do) So who has fitted a greddy plenum and went out and bought a new cable that fits perfectly (ie no 90degree bends), and what car did it come off? Not really after, i think its this or that, but i need 100% sure. I'll be fitting one this week and i will be buying a new cable for it so i need to know its will be right

180, 90, you'll hear something, might not be a big bang but it wont be crank crank crank nothing (thats if its only timing related) i assumed that the engine was completely dead whilst cranking, because if it was backfiring or spluttering i would think he would of mentioned it. But one thing i've learnt about ass-u-ming is that it makes an ass out of you and me... 1+ on more info though, its hard to suggest a fix when you dont know whats going on. I would spray some carby cleaner next, see if it gets the old girl going

The link is almost $400 cheaper though? whats the difference? Does the $400 just get you australian based support? Also, what about air temp sensors, with the afm gone, do you wire one in?

you can buy nismo products through nissan themselves. It was a factory option from nissan its a nismo rear bar....

when i was in brisbane you only got 4 points for your P's One year later i got a 4 demerit point fine, then they give you a choice of either losing it for 3months or keep it with only 1 point for 12months, and if you lose that 1 point inside the 12months your original fine doubles!! (ie 6month disquailfication) WA's abit more easy going haha

even with 180degrees out, youd expect a backfire or something to show that its trying, ifs its total dead its missing one of the two key factors or both of them

thats pretty clever for an alternator haha

mine hits 7k on the dot, my bros is about 7200rpm

have you checked the two basic things? fuel and spark? Are the injectors opening, get the special injector bulb that clips into the injector plug and crank it over, make sure the light pulses (proving that you are getting both constant power and signal to the injectors) Check the fuel pump is actually priming the rail, undo the fuel line and turn the car onto the on position and physically watch fuel come out. Take out a coil, with the spark plug still in it, earth the plug out and crank the car over to make sure there definately is a strong spark. If its got fuel and spark there should be atleast a kick out of it

i would try and hear it and see if its hitting, or measure the amount of movement it has with the dump on, then take the dump off and measure again If you think there actually is a pressure drop, take a vac line from the manifold and connect it to the actuator, take it for a quick spin and see if it creeps again

i blame mircosoft spell check, its ruined us all

bejesus... *reaches into pockets* i'll give this much to go for a ride

what boost controller you running? i would think option 1 is more likely, i doubt there would be a pressure drop big enough to affect the actuator. If you have a compressor handy, just pump some air on to vac line going to the turbo and watch the arm move, see if it is hitting at all.

hahaha you really are a complete f*khead Im not here to get into a big "keyboard warrior" thing, but it's really quite simple. You don't go into someones thread about their pride and joy, which they have spent a lot of time and money on and say that sort of crap. He's been nothing but helpful with any questions asked. I'm not here to stick up for warload, he's doing quite well in calling you a turd sniffer. So you and your "grama policing" can take a walk

r33 gtr box is pull type r33 gtst box is a push type so negative

sell it, its a Peugeot outside of warrenty, its only gonna get worse... if it cuts out when you back off from the throttle (ie slowing down at a set of lights), and its dies cleanly (ie no spluttering etc) i would think something like the idle speed controller maybe playing funny buggers.