R34GTFOUR

its not the clutch that you would need to change, but the bellhousing and associated bits (slave cylinder etc) to make it work.

does it come complete with the flywheel? is it possible to get some pics?

that is the factory nismo kit if its plastic, its a genuine nismo kit if it was white and in perth i would take it

bloody hell you're quick lol, you just sit around on the forums?? you should have the msg now

in that case, i'll take it. pm sent

if it was mine, i would check the spark plugs first, see what condition they are in then change them with normal copper plugs if they arent already in there. Then give it a compression test to make sure its all sweet. what are the specs on the engine, what cams, pistons etc are your running? also what injectors, coils, ecu are you running? I doubt a bleed valve would cause this problem, it can effect boost but not it missing after 6000rpm. I would be looking more electrical, ie spark.

how long did you have it in your soarer?

I know being triple plate it wont be the most friendly clutch, but how was this like to drive with?

i have most of the parts to do this conversion for sale hint hint... i reckon its a great conversion for someone that is handy on the tools and can just bolt all the parts up, there was a bloke that i met at the drags that did this conversion, made 260ish rwhp on stock turbo and shaved over 2 seconds off his 1/4 mile time. Not too shabby

if i didnt just buy a gt35r, i would of snapped this up... goodluck with the sale mate, it'll go at that price

pm sent

t3 flange?

i have a stock r34 unit but it has 116xxx on the clock, pm if interested...

thats cheap as, i wouldnt wire in three gauges for a 100 bucks lol

what mods do you have now? the stock cams wont be giving you too much of a restricition if you just have basic mods as it is (which is probably the case if you're running stock ecu), its probably better to spend that money else where. if you already have the basic catback and CIA setup, maybe go for some headers, or get you ecu "chipped" so it can be tuned, either of those options will give you better gains then dropping in some cams in an otherwise stock engine also, i would also think of other areas besides just the engine to spend money on. If its a gts, try and source the gtst brakes which would give you much improved braking, or if your suspension is fairly stock get some upgraded springs/shocks or get a new adjustable coilover, or sway bars etc... depending on how much you are willing to burn (yes burn because you wont get it back, its all fun though), cams probably isnt the best option

just on a side note, the whole water in the boot idea was a joke... hahaha

pics? does the rail take the stock r34 injector size or is the rail to suit physically larger injectors? does it have single or dual fuel entry? cheers

the harness for the r33 rb25 is the same regardless if its n/a or turbo, series one or series 2, nissan was smart like that. If you look at a n/a engine bay, certain plugs that are used only for the turbo application are still there but are just taped aside. I have a complete loom for a rb25, pm if interested.

cheers for the replies, i was going to buy a ross rb25 balancer but a ross rb26 balancer popped up in the for sale thread at a decent price and i was wondering how different the belts were. For the sake of a couple of hundred saved and possible dramas its probably not worth it, i'll just buy one thats to suit the job

Hey everyone, I know this is been covered in the big thread, and i've been searching for a while now and cant find it so i was hoping someone can help me out. With a rb30det build which harmonic balancer do you use? For example, if i wanted to use an aftermarket balancer like a ross or ati should i get one to suit my r34 rb25 or are they all pretty much the same. I'm mainly concerned with all the ps, ac, waterpump etc belts lining up, so which harmonic balancers are interchangable. All the rb harmonic balancers should bolt onto the rb series engines, but which ones differ for the aux belts? mainly are the rb26s belts different?

depending on how bad its been slipping, and how long you've been driving it like that for, a light machine of your current stock flywheel should be fine. Machining a flywheel is bugger all (ie if they want more than $100 they are assholes) but regardless how bad the clutch was i would get it done since everything is out. The better the mating faces of the clutch are, the better the new clutch will work.

much much better

are the sideskirts and rear bar still there?

Im running buddy club "racing spec" they call them in my r34, exactly what i want out of an adjustable coilover. Firm for the street, great on a track and fully height and dampner adjustable. I was happy to part with the few extra $$ over the teins...

haha GOLD!!