R34GTFOUR

if you have a aftermarket filter, its more than likely just the turbo slowing down like daniel said.

plenum had to come off, and it definately takes time to do that with the engine still in the car, its a bit of a pain in the ass. Going to be doing to my lil bros gtr soon, but we are taking the engine out at the same time so it should be easier (upgrading turbo and clutch)

if you have severly retarded ignition timing, you can make it "spool" at idle, thats how most of the aftermarket ecu's antilag systems work. When the clutch is pressed in it runs stupidly retarded timing and you can get boost. In a normal setup, you wont get boost at idle. As mentioned you may get a psi or 2 when you hold your foot flat in neutral but thats about it. Boost is a result of load

the neo rb25 is top feed though

haha i know you'll need them, i've seen some of your posts that suggest nitrous interest Im just saying in a stock setup theres no point upgrading injectors

also is it pinging coming onto boost or uptop in the rev range or both? Just stay off the right foot abit, and try not to load it up too much and get back on the dyno

what fuel you running?

like everyone else said, great write up just wondering since your running just the front setup, have you noticed any brake bias at all?

the cas is easy, if its never been touched before, when you undo it you'll be able to see where the bolt was originally, otherwise just mark it with a permenant marker or white out if you're worried. The crank bolt will be very very tight, but you will also need a harmonic balancer puller because its pressed on, other than that everything pretty straight foward if you're good with turning spanners. If it was me, i would also replace the water pump while everything is undone. Just remember make sure everything is absolutely spot on with the belt, these arent a free running engine, the valves and pistons WILL HIT if it jumps too many teeth. Goodluck

it will give you more midrange, but on the stock turbo it is abit wasted. However it will be a noticeable difference with the gt3076r vs stock cams

you just t-peice into the oil breather line that goes to your intake. The whole purpose is for the can the "catch" the oil and stop it going into the intake. So run the line that normally goes into the intake (the one coming from the engine) onto the catch can, then run a return line from the catch can back into the intake. Also, if you're buying a cheap catch can off ebay that has no baffels to catch the oil, stick some steel wool inside the can, otherwise its not going to do much.

yeah of course it will go straight in, but with a stock na rb25 theres no point sticking det injectors in unless you require more fuel which he wont. Bigger injectors when not needed = no performance gain = waste of time and money

3-4mm ontop the full line isnt that bad, most gtr owners do at least that to help with oil surging. if you have access to a compression gauge, give the engine a quick test

will the skyline plug in version have a base map loaded on so you can drive it to the workshop like a powerfc? or will it have to be tuned from scratch?

Have a search on the forums, that hp has been acheived heaps of time. Especially look at the dyno result thread for the rb25's, that way you can see the people that have achieved that hp and see what mods it took them to achieve it. Just to get you started: Fuel: -Bigger injectors (something like the nismo 555cc would be good) -Bigger fuel pump (bosch is good value) Management: -ECU (its hard to go past a powerfc) -boost control (profec) Turbo: -Garrett GT3071R or GT3076R depending how far you wanna go -all new turbo fittings including new dump The stock bottom end will be fine as long as the motor is in good nick and you get a nice tune done

just tap it in, give it the old tap tap taparoo. Whats the problem you oil fitting you to good for your home??? ok im tired, im going to bed now...

haha, yeah you wouldnt want to high mount the stock turbo = ghey i would just clean up the stock manifold, its not going to look as pretty as a golden s/s setup, but atleast you wont be taking the turbo off in 12months time to replace a cracked manifold

yeah its is, but something that cramped, with such big bends in a small place i wouldnt trust under the sort of heat a manifold reaches, especially being stainless

If you pull off the intake of a 100,000km old skyline thats never been touched, and the inlet will look exactly like that. Theres always a little bit of oil coming from the breather, like a slight mist and as you would expect, with over 100,000km of "mist" there will be some oil in the intake. Like turbotech said, its more than likely oil coming from the breather off the rocker covers (or cam covers in this case). When oil seals go, they tend to leak out the exhaust wheel and pump out a shit load of smoke from the exhaust, not the inlet side. If its definately the oil coming from the breaher than that can be a result from two main areas (this is if you have cleaned the inlet before you installed the turbo and it looks like that with in a short period of time): 1. Your engine is really tired and loose (ie its high km or had a hard long life), if theres heaps of piston blowby then it will pump oil in there 2. You've filled the engine up with too much oil and its just blowing it out the breather. So firstly, i would see if the dipsticks been blown out at all, then i would see how much oil it had in there. If there was too much, drain some. Then i would do a compression check on the motor to see what sort of nick its in, if its only pulling 120-130psi across the board, i'd say its just a tired engine. The bandaid fix would be to get a oil catch can and plumb it in, or save up for a rebuild. If you had the breather lines hooked up incorrectly and it was pressurising the crankcase, i would expect you to be missing your dipstick as it would of flown out..

personally for a low mount setup i would just use the cast manifold, if you want to go a bit crazy get it honed and cleaned up then ceramic coat it. Low mount s/s setups are reknown for cracking If you want anymore than that, just go a highmount with a bigger turbo

you're joking right???

i've dropped a na r33 rear craddle with the diff, brakes etc still connected and slotted in a whole r33 gtst set up, piece of piss and took less than an hour. I would recommend dropping the whole rear cradle, then wheel it out from under the car then undo the diff etc from it, then swap it onto the new cradle and put the whole thing back in as one peice. Although like mentioned above, i wouldnt of thought a r33 cradle would fit in a r34??

if its a r34 gtv like your username says, it will have the turbo brakes and suspension, but thats it. Other than that its a stock na r34. Have a search on the forums (theres a search function) and theres heaps of info on the models Have fun with it and post some pics up when it gets here

i heard they made it for the gay market...

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