R34GTFOUR

so it was just a freshen up then... lol what about the head specifically, did they replace things like valve stem seals? has it had a compression test and leak down test since the rebuild? thats a piss off, after spending that much coin and still having problems.

very nice mate, sure will be a fun car to drive

what was done in the rebuild?

the profile is dependant on the width of the tyre. ie the wider you go, to keep the same sidewall height, the profile number will be smaller. So since the 235 is a smaller width it runs a 45 profile, and the 255 has the 40 profile, but the actual side wall and rolling diameter should be identical, if that makes any sence

i enjoyed it, if it was a bit less scattered it would of been great, but thats to be expected with that sort of turnout 2nd and third leg was great imo, love the twisties

i do that all the time

yeah that was a while back though, and i thought any more than 5 defects got you a red sticker They only need to find one thing (ie bald tyres) and that can be enough, they can write all sort of bullshit. They could of even said that your aftermarket gauges blocked your view of the road and stickered you for that. Just sounds like you got some ASSHOLES

unless you are good with you fabrication skills, i would just buy a complete kit that came with everything, that way there arent any headaches and you'll have everything you'll need living in japn, you should have access to plenty of parts haha

i dont see how it would put more stress on the motor itself. For example, fuel sprays, theres no spark, the piston still goes down on its "power" stroke and when it goes back up it would blow most of the fuel out the exhaust valve on the exhaust stroke. Abliet there maybe some fuel vapour left over, but its just going to get more fuel on the next stroke anyway. There wont be an unexpected explosion inside the cylinder, its just that when the system ignites its next power stroke it ignites the rest of the fuel in the exhaust. Could be wrong, but thats the way i picture it

how are they incorporated? my r34 seats had 4 bolts holding the rail to the seat, they popped off and the rail came off

hey mate, it all depends on wat height they decked your block, your headgasket size etc but regardless i dont think you'll get it down to 8.5:1 CR The lowest i can see it going it 8.7:1 and thats with no decking wat so ever, running a big 1.6mm headgasket and std size pistons (86mm) Worst case senario, if they zero decked the block, with a 1mm hg and 87mm pistons your CR would be as high as 9.85, which i wouldnt think the engine would like 2 bar boost that much

I got mine this morning, looks bloody great. Thanks again, i left some trader feedback for you.

cheers bloody department of transport with their "rules and regulations"

the bee R limiter is actually better for the motor just not the turbo normal limiter kills fuel so theres still spark bee R kills the spark but the injectors still spray in the fuel, thats why they blow big flames out the exhaust. Its much safer for an engine to have fuel still pumped into it on the limiter than the spark still igniting with no fuel. On a side note, they WILL destroy ceramic wheel turbos (stock turbo) and your cat will go bye bye

and thats were the answers are... whats different between the your turbo and the xr6 gt35r? First the exhaust housing is larger, but thats mainly becuase its a 4L motor and its obviously going to pump more air and the last thing they want is the turbo to "choke" which would cause boost to DROP off. So if you housing was too small, you wouldnt have boost creep, but it would drop off in boost at the higher rpm mark so that cant be marked off as a problem Secondly is obviously the fords run a internal wastegate version. At a stock level they dont seem to have much of a problem holding boost, but if you talk to some of the boys playing with these cars its quite common for them to port the wastegate out abit and stick a bigger wastegate "flapper" on and they hold boost fine after that. So with the internal wastegate setup they dont run into a problem of having the wastegate pipe in the wrong part of the manifold, or not in the best location on the collector since the whole thing is done in the actual exhaust housing itself, which leads to the only logical answer to your problem, it has to be the wastegate pipe location on the manifold. Even without a wastegate wat so ever, i would still expect to see the turbo spool and make a psi or 2 boost, but no where near what your making. I dont see how a bigger wastegate will fix anything because your making 13psi (according to the dyno graph) with out any wastegate at all, the system is having trouble releasing the exhaust gases on the manifold side of things. I hope you get this sorted cause im going to run the exact same manifold/turbo/wastegate setup as you, and i dont want these problems

auto trans in an awd, so im assuming your talking about an auto gts4? you wouldn't be able to stall the stock box up to 5k rpm anyway so there no way you'll damage it, (unless you mean reving it at 5k in neutral than dropping it into drive, in which case yes that is bad) Stalling the gearbox up (you'll probably only be able to stall it to 2500rpm on the brake) wont hurt it so much, it will just heat up the auto trans oil quicker and may cause it to slip.

when you swapped the boxes over, did you check how much meat was left on the clutch discs? if the clutch was fine, and it was oil making it slip, theres more chance the rear main seal leaking from the engine than the box itself. It would have to be leaking quite badly to make it slip, ie you should be dropping oil on the ground.

your mates engine, was that definately a na rb25? its not a rb25det bottom end is it? Also your gts4 rb25 block will be wider to accomindate the front diff, so im 99% sure it wont just bolt up. I know you can go the other way, use a gts4 rb25 and put the rwd sump and it will work fine, but the normal rb25 rwd block doesnt have the holes for the front diff to bolt up. Just worth checking into...

yep true, they took mine out the bastards... i've got the headlights that say xenons, but no xenon bulbs haha i never understood why they took them out?? plenty of cars have xenons now days, whats the deal?

im not sure about the base powerfc map for the gtr, but with the gtst there was a huge difference. Just plugging the brand new powerfc in my bros r33 gtst was a massive step up, it started smoking second gear when before it only just broke traction coming onto boost in first. although id always put it on the dyno and give the tune a looksie

because mircotech doesnt have an output for an idle stepper motor, so it doesnt idle up like most stock cars when cold. It took more than 2-3 cold start tunes to get mine right, and i had to wait 5 hours for the engine to be dead cold again before you could try again. Even then, when winter came and i started it at 5am in the morning when it was 1-2degrees outside it didnt really like it too much. Once it got to operating temp it was great, but it all comes down to the tuner and how much time you have to spend on it. My tuner spent one full day tuning my car and went through over a tank of juice, then plus another week to get the cold start acceptable (he did it first thing in the morning when it was dead cold). I thought the mircotech (i ran a lt8s in my celica) was a great bit of gear for the price, but imo you'd be crazy to go down a path like that if you own a skyline when there are plug and play items like powerfc which work so well. You may only spend 900 on a mircotech, but if you dont know a tuner that tunes them well, the savings you make will be wasted on additional dyno time to get the tune right.

nah im in perth cheers anyway, coventrys over here sell them and i can get trade throught them so it should be sweet. I looked at their website and it shows a set, but it has valve reliefs so im not sure if its the correct picture. Whats the general opinion on running a head gasket bore of 88mm on an engine with a bore of 86-87mm? Is that going to cause a problem? 90% of the gaskets i've seen are 88mm for the rb25/26

didnt know that i can get acl at trade price so that looking better and better thanks

stay with the powerfc, much more user friendly it takes a fair while to get things like cold start right on the microtech, and even then you cant have idle up when cold. the powerfc has been tried and proven, theres plently of high hp GTRs out there running them Just stick a set of z32 afms on yours and it will fix the afm maxing out

Mainly to be a bit more boost friendly, but i just did some quick calculations: With the 86mm acl pistons it will run close to 8.86:1 CR with a 1.2mm hg and 9.01:1 with a 1mm hg With the 87mm acl pistons it will run clsoe to 9.04:1 with a 1.2mm hg and 9.20:1 with a 1mm hg So depending on the condition of the bore (i havent got a block yet) if i run a std piston the 1mm hg seems the go, and with the 87mm piston the 1.2mm hg seems the go Whats some feedback on acl race series pistons? Anyone heard good/bad things? Anyone know of any high hp cars running them on a daily basis?