R34GTFOUR

i've read it a few times on the forum, but its also listed in the rb30 PDF guide on here. Spoolup also mentions it on his site www.spoolimports.com that the combustion chamber in the head is smaller, and different pistons need to be used.

have you tried disconnecting the external gate?? or dropping the exhaust from the catback?? ...... jks dont hurt me haha i would be pulling the manifold off and getting it checked by kyle if possible

Okay so I’m starting to crunch some numbers now and I just wanted some opinions on what I was thinking. Basically I’m going to have a built rb30det with a gt35r pushing 22+psi and hopefully pump out 500+awhp. I’m going to use a NEO head and as most of you know it only has a capacity of 50-51cc compared to the normal rb25 head of 60-64cc, obviously this will raise compression. From what I understand the stock rb30 piston has a compression height of 1.260in with a 0.040 deck height (so the piston sits roughly 1mm below the top of the bore at TDC). I would like to have a zero deck height, and I’m still unsure on what piston size to run, either std 86mm or 87mm because at the end of the day most rb30s out there would of done at least 250,000kms and a hone might not cut it. So this is what I was thinking: CP Pistons (8.2 CR in the normal rb25/30) Piston Compression Height: 1.280 Deck Height: 0 (shave .020 off the block) Piston volume: 0 (flat tops) Head gasket thickness: 1.6mm Head gasket bore: 88mm Head chamber capacity: 51cc Bore: 86mm Stroke: 85mm According to the calculations that will achieve 9.13: CR, and if I needed to run 87mm pistons that would bump up to 9.32:1 CR which is starting to get a bit high for my likings, but I could drop that down to 8.75 and 8.93 respectively by having a deck height of 0.020in but im not sure how much that would affect the quench. OR ACL Race Series Forged RB30ET Piston Compression Height: 1.261 Deck Height: 0 (shave .040 off the block) Piston volume: -4.5 (dished) Head gasket thickness: 1.6mm Head gasket bore: 88mm Head chamber capacity: 51cc Bore: 86mm Stroke: 85mm With that combo I would be looking at 8.56:1 CR and with a 87mm bore it would have a 8.72:1 CR. I just don’t have any experience with the ACL pistons, how do they rate compared to CP? Also I’ve noticed that most aftermarket head gaskets that I’ve seen come with a bore of 88mm, has anyone experienced trouble running a head gasket like that on a 86 or 87mm cylinder bore? Any input would be great

im a believer of karma, these pricks will get theirs in the end...

sorry to hear mate, my younger bro is wrecking his r33, so if you need help in sourcing a rear 1/4 window give us a pm and i'll sort something out. wouldnt you love to catch them doing it with your hockey stick in hand???

if anyone can prove that the stock unopened rb20 is good for power, adam can i could hardley believe some of the numbers that motor pushed out

then his next post will be "why does it stall?"

any update on these?

if its blowing the dipstick out the motor is really breathing. Its either been way over filled with oil, or its quite tired. As for R32 Zilla, my number 1 suspects would be the turbos aswell. I know its a pain to rip them off, but you might have to bit the bullet and do it. How many kms have they done, with what sort of treatment? A weeping turbo seal will throw out a lot of "fluffy" white smoke, but it will do it quite badly at idle so that makes me think yours havent totally gone. Valve stem seals tend to be more of a start up smoke problem. If the motors only been rebuilt a few years back without much abuse, its hard to believe the rings would be buggered aswell, but i would do a compression test yourself and get the actual psi readings and post them up. Does the catch can actually fill with oil? if so, how quickly?

what is a compressor gasket? do you mean the exhaust gasket between the dump and turbo? what boost are you running and what other mods do you have?

The GT-V has the same brakes and suspension as the GTT. The suspension wont make much of a difference because most people swap that anyway, but the brakes are a good upgrade. The interior is still the na setup obviously (no centre gauges) I doubt it has the GTT gearbox, most likely just the stock na box

i know the r33 rb25de have softer springs than the det, but i've heard the neo engines are the same for both turbo and na also if the pistons are the only thing different internally, i wonder if the na shares the same gtr rods as the neo det? anyone pulled a na neo apart yet?

great build up, will be the ducks nut when done

thats no good, what actually let go? did it throw a rod out?

pfft i can get a rb42dett for less than that from japan....

yeah they have gtr rods but theres no need for forgied pistons for a mid 300rwhp car, way overkill. Even if he wanted head room for future mods, he has to ask himself, do i eventually want over 450rwhp? If not dont go forgies, just my 2 cents

his still running the stock turbo, stock exhaust and stock ecu, and hes set on the 5k budget, he wont be making over 450rwhp soon. I think most people are hearing numbers like 400rwhp too much these days and its lost its impact and want more than that. There is no need for a skyline that is RWD driven daily to have over 450rwhp. It sounds gay i know, and i want to hit myself for saying that there is such a thing as too much power, but i dont think many people know what its like to drive a car with that sort of power. It extremely quick and dangerous in the wrong hands If hes not going to try and break the speed of sound barrier anytime soon, i dont think theres a need for forgied pistons

personally i would just freshen the engine, ie new rings, bearings and stock pistons if need be (you might find that your current pistons are okay) Then spend a bit on maintence, like water pump, timing belt etc etc. That wont leave you with much more spending money, if you lucky you may have enough for a decent clutch, which i would definately replace. After the rebuild your not going to have a big jump in power (maybe a slight gain cause you're going to have a healthy engine), but you will have a good base to start modding. You'll have a fresh neo engine which will hold 450rwhp if you wanted to push it that far, and a clutch that will take some abuse. Its much easier bumping up the boost, or stick an ecu in, or changing to another turbo once all the maintence stuff is done first. Theres no point spending money on forged pistons etc, if you dont have the basic stuff like a decent clutch to hold the power. Once its been rebuilt, save for a couple of months and put an exhaust, tune and more boost into it.

what would be a rough price of a set of acl race series big end and main end bearings for a rb30? cheers

what is the turbo setup exactly? may help with the search hopefully they are found and "taught" a lesson

i doubt there would be a tutorial because tuning a rb20det into a rb20de isnt a common thing to do it would be much easier to sell what you have and get the na version, but for what ever reason you have to do it then your going to have a slow na rb20 Just rip the turbo off, get appropriate sized bolts and plug up the coolant and oil feeds on the block that use to feed the turbo, then get a na exhaust manfold and then connect that to the rest of your exhaust system. Then from the inlet manifold get some pipe to go over the engine to the passenger side of the enginebay, connect you afm upto it and then it should be done. I would adjust you cas and put some more igntion timing into it to regain some sort of performance. Its going to be slow and bad on fuel for the perfomance you get.

your oil pressure will go anywhere from 40psi upto 90psi when your driving (depending on rpm), on the other hand your cooling system will only be at a fraction of that, normally around the 7psi mark. So if there isa leak somewhere between the oil and coolant, the oil is going to be pumped quite quickly into your coolant since its at a higher pressure. at what pressure did you pressurise the radiator? and how long did you leave it connected for? there would have to be a leak otherwise oil wouldnt be contaminting the coolant

Hey mate you have a couple of different options.. the gt35r wont be a bolt on and is too much of an overkill for 300-350rwhp so thats out a real GT30r would be a good option, and will easily get you the power your chasing but isnt a direct bolt get a disco potato (normally on sr20's), would be very responsive on the rb25, get the power your chasing and bolt straight in You could just get a 2nd hand skyline turbo for $350-400, have it at 14psi and but only have 270-280rwhp You could spend 2k and hiflow your current turbo, which will get your power level and bolt straight in but if your replacing your turbo with an aftermaket turbo, i would allow atleast 2k as a budjet hope that helps

bloody hell you've had some bad luck i would pressurise the radiator (whilst still connected to the engine) like a leak down test, and see if it leaks any pressure. If it does, then trace where its leaking from and take it from there. It would be extremely strange that its the turbo (what turbo/s are you running?) You would assume that the block is fine since its a new item, but i would still be a little concerned with the head and head gasket, cause if the workshop are the ones that checked it and said its fine, but they can't get your car running right i wouldnt be too confident in their work. Take it to them and let them know its not right, then pressurise your cooling system, theres obviously a leak somewhere between your oil and coolant. Also is your oil milky at all?

i thought they were a great street setup, firm yet comfortable with heaps of dampner and height adjustment. And for price, i couldnt ask for anything else i've got a set of tein super streets for a r33 for sale (thought i would stick that in there lol), like new less than 5000km old if anyone is keen