R34GTFOUR

rb30 pump is fine, just has one differnt bolt location which you just fill with a tad of silicon, the rest bolts up perfectly.

Just go to any exhaust shop and get them to make up a catback exhaust out of mild steel in 2.5inch, it shouldnt cost you any more than 300. I would recommend selling your cat aswell and get a 2.5inch hiflow

^^ its much cheaper and easier converting a gts to a gtst, but going to a full blown gtr spec is just silly as mention above Just drive the r34 as it is and enjoy how it is cheap to run and reliable, then when you've saved up your pennys and are old enough legally then get a gtr and watch your money disappear

Nice pick up, the GT4's are a good package and can deliver good time. The gearboxs are tough as nails so you shouldn't need to rebuild it unless it has a fair few kms and its got worn syncos. Theres plenty of boys overseas pumping well over 400awhp on the stock box with no dramas. A gt30 would be a tad laggy on the 3SGTE, i would be more inclined to go a disco potatoe, which will quite easily get you you 280awho and will be nice and responsive. Even a stock ct20b from a ST205 celica go well and should get you close to 250awhp (i use to have a st162 celica with the conversion and i had the ct20b at one stage and it net me 271hp atw, plus it had full boost at 2500rpm) Anyway goodluck with it p.s. i have a low km st185 gearbox (from my halfcut) that i will let go cheap if you want it instead of rebuilding yours which tends to be big $$$. I live in perth aswell

unless its got new rubbers on it

thats bloody wrong, sorry to hear find the person, put lead weights on them and sink them in the river, 4 days later and there wont be a body, the crabs will eat it

looks good mate so how are you securing the pod to the dash? is it just a really snug fit? what workshop are you at? p.s. bloody sexy clutch

what are they? If they are custom offsets are need to be made to order then they take AGES, although 3months is now pushing it. A friend of a friend ordered some custom order wheels from nengun, took just over 3months all up, and he ended up selling them shortly after hahaha

yeah my neo reads pretty high aswell, at idle once warm it will sit right on 4, which is almost double anyother r33 i have seen. I havent put a mechanical gauge on it yet, but those stock gauges seem to lie a fair bit

Just for a bit of side info, my r34 gtfour uses the exact same calipers and brake pads as the na r33, but mine is 5 stud. So if you managed to get the 5 stud hubs, you could just order my rotors then you can keep your stock calipers and pads. Of course you wont be "upgrading" your braking abilities, but if your just chasing the 5 stud for rim purposes then this maybe cheaper for you.

exactly, even the digital dash stores its data in the dash itself, so if they get a low km dash and plug it in its instant low kms. Nissan can adjust the kms with their software, so anyone that can crack that can get into the km side of things.

turbo timers are REALLY simple things, its just a relay with a count down so they hardly every break, which is a good thing With yours i would just double check all the wiring is ok. If you look at the harness of the turbo timer it should go to its own little 4 wire black plug (this comes with the timer out of the box). The other end goes to your ignition barrel. Anyway undo that plug and you'll have the 4 prongs. Use a test light or even better a multimeter and test that you have the correct power going to each one. One should be constant 12volts, the other igntion power, the other is accesories power and the last is negative. The negative is black, the red is constant, and the green and blue are accessories and igntion (i cant remember out of those to which are which, im doing this off the top of my head haha) Anyway it doesnt matter if the green and blue is back to front cause you'll see a little switch of the back of the turbo timer which changes these to over if its wired up wrong so its kinda hard to stuff it up anyway. Once you've check that let us know what readings you have.

You'll find that besides the fact that you there are BMW and merc dealerships in Australia, if you import one personally (even though its complied in Aus) insurance companies raise the insurance premium cause its now classified as an import, kinda like the r32 skylines, the local delivered skylines are cheaper to insure, even though are the exactly the same as the imported version but thats the way it is. As for finance, most financial institutions wont offer a personal secured loan on a car that isnt physically here, even though you can prove that its on the way. The only way around this is an unsecured loan which you will pay a little extra in interest, or if you have a house draw againt the loan for that OR if you have the money sitting there doing nothing then you obviously dont have to worry about finance. You find that if you have patience and dont mind doing the extra work, importing a car like this can literally save you thousands, but it isnt just a matter of paying the money and getting it here, there will be hick-ups alond the way. My old man just imported a Bayliner (a boat) from the USA, the amount of bullshit if he gone through to get it here (warfies are wankers) its been quite a headache, but in the end hes saved close to $50,000 so its worth it.

that will fit nicely on a GTT or gtst I've got s2r's 18x9.5 with +28 offset on my r34 gtfour (Same offset as a gtt) and it fine, no rubbing

Just chasing the rear hub from a r33 gtst (i already have the full front brakes and discs) for a 5 stud conversion. I will most likely just be using blank na rotors drilled to 5 stud so i can keep the n/a brakes, but if some one has the complete rear hub, disc and calipers i may also be interested. Pm me a price i your keen to offload some. cheers (im in perth btw)

i've got one, but it came with my car, would be pretty hard to come by i would think. Its pretty much useless though, everything it tells you is very basic, nothing that helps you mechanically. The workshop manual on the otherhand can be downloaded easily

Item: R33 RB25DET coilpack harness Age: 12yrs Condition: Perfect, was taken off the car 5years ago, no discolouration, looks like new Price: 50 To Fit: (What car) Skyline Location: Perth Contact: PM

correct o' mondo obviously nothings going to flow as well as a straight through pipe, but there are different types of "hiflow" cats and some are not as good as others. I've never dealt with xforce cats, but i use to have a 3inch hi flow cat (forgot the brand) in my old turbo fwd celica which was brand new and the car drove seemingly fine, but the best i could do was crack a 13.0 over the 1/4, so i was thinking of something simple to get me a 12s quarter mile. So i put a straight through pipe in and i noticed a difference, but unfortunately i never got it to the drags and sold it shorlty after haha so in short, i would expect a lil drop

that exhaust hose has nothing to do with your exhaust so dont worry haha thats the air the bleed valve is "bleeding away" in order to raise your boost. That just goes straight to atmosphere (so out in the open). Most boost controller wont have a return hose cause they are designed to be under the hood anyway and instead will only have a slight hole on the side of the controller to bleed the air. They reason why they say to connect the return hose is to reduce noise inside your car (cause it will hiss very slightly when its bleeding air), but if your going to mount it under your hood you'll never hear it over the engine, so dont bother connecting it

thats just a normal bleed valve , but they extend it so you can install it inside the cabin to adjust boost. A single stage has a missle switch so you can go from stock boost to what ever boost you set it at. A dual stage just allows you to have a low setting then you flick a missle switch and it goes to you high setting. It always best to keep the vacuum hose as short as possible to help reduce boost spiking, thats why i personally dont like this type since the vacuum line has to be run all the way inside the car. The t-peice just goes inbetween your boost source (normally a nipple off your FMIC) and the turbo actuator, the arrow should go in the direction of the actuator. Then you just run the vaccum line to your bleed valve and your done. I personally would just mount it inside the engine bay, since its only a bleed valve and once its adjusted to the desired boost level you should really need to adjust it again, and like i said the shorter the vacuum line the better

no you need a pull type this is a push type

yes, black also disperses heat fastest but it also absorbs it the quickest. So in a a location like where the radiator is under the bonnet, there is no light contact so black is a good choice to disperse heat. On the front of the car with a big fmic on show, black would absorb heat faster just sitting there in the sun, but once you were driving around it would also disperse heat faster. Either way it would make bugger all difference in most applications, and the only real reason you would do it is for some sort of "stealth" effect

put it on the dyno and see what afr its really pushing (my bet in the 10's despite the "mines ecu"), and those gauges are as useful as tits on a bull (unless its a proper wideband) get it tuned properly, you'll notice a massive difference in ecomomy and power

tapping is generally head, which is nothing to worry about, lifters with age just get louder and i doubt you'll notice any difference a spun bearing on the other hand is more of a knocking noise, they are very different. If it sounds like its coming just from the head then its unlikely to be a bearing. Its also quite common on these to get noisy injectors aswell. My bros car (has 180000km on it, but REAL kms) and his stock injectors tap. How many kms has it done? I would check the oil first, and give it a oil/filter change aswell. If you dont really know what your looking at, it might be worth your while to take it to a performance shop and get them to give it a once over. Its always hard to diagnose something like knocks and tap noises over the net, it could be anything

he had a fully built engine, so i'm assuming forged pistons/rods etc etc you will EASILY spend 6k if you take it to a workshop for a "tough" rebuild pistons, bearings, headstuds, gasket kit, timing belt, water pump etc etc all those things should be done while its torn down, and when your paying for labour it adds up very quickly, or you can go cheap and replace only the broken piston but that wont be any better than a second hand engine anyway. If your not planning on making over 400rwhp get a nice low km engine, they can do a compression test on them outside the car, and buy the one that pulls the highest and most even numbers or take it to URAS, it seems he knows something about skylines haha jks