R34GTFOUR

nice numbers!! just out of curiosity, whos running stock gtr boxes and whos got upgraded gearsets/dogboxes?

the corrolla would have a 4AGZE from the mr2, zippy little motor. As for the starlet as mentioned it has the 4E series motor, being such a light car i would expect it to hall some ass

i've got buddy club coilovers in my r34, couldnt be happier. Gives a nice firm feel, and is dampner adjustable to soften it up if need be. Has HEAPS of height adjustment, shits all over my bros teins in his r33, so for a show look you could dump it quite easily to the height in the photo, but like previously said, it would be on bump stops the whole time and would ride like poo which doesnt make any sence when you just spent 2k on decent suspension to make the car ride better Go coilovers, not g4, and you'll be happy

yep sounds good, no rush at all

my stock bunky r33 gtst (160rwhp, 235 wide rear tyres) = wont break traction in 1st coming onto boost (ie, just engage the clutch then flooring it from 1500rpm, no dropping the clutch) my bros r33 gtst with basic mods (280rwho, 265 wide rear tyres) = will break traction coming onto boost in 2nd gear mates r33gtst with a few more mods (400rwhp, 265 wide rear tyres) = will break traction coming onto boost in 3rd gear it all depends how you drive, even my bunky gtst will smoke 2nd gear if i drop the clutch hope that helps

i doubt that torque curve could get much better. Most of the de+t setups have all the timing ripped out down low to help it stop pinging when its coming onto boost because of the cr. Not a bad result though

they definately look good when they havent been installed, but its the actual quality of the s/s that lets them down. I havent had one that has lasted anymore than 12months, and allthough after the first week of it being installed it looks great with its golden glow, that tends to change shortly after to a dull brown. With the extra power you will being making with that turbo (and heat) i would be suprised if it lasted 12months. Not saying its a bad thing, some people cant justify spending over a grand on a manifold, but when you replacing them annually it starts to get annoying imo. Hope this one lasts abit longer for you and good luck with the dyno

cops dont know what they are talking about, half of them dont know what they are looking at under the bonnet let alone whats legal and whats not. All they have to do is spin some shit that the car is illegal (even if its not true) so they can stick a yellow on your car so you can get reemed at the pits. The turbos will function fine

no the vac line is there to open the bov, but on boost it does help keep it close but the spring does the majority of the work. On 7psi, none of the bovs i've had have opened with no vac line, its been fine. Obviously if you were running 20psi through it i wouldnt expect it to hold it shut but at the sametime you would be stupid to have the car running "quick" with them driving it. Make it as slow as possible so they dont think your such a "hoon". I normally just run wastegate pressure (ie 7psi) and retard the shit out of the timing and it drives like a slug and they think its as boring as batshit.

blasphemy!!

as adam87 said, the actual gearbox side of things are exactly the same, same internals, same strength. Its only the bellhousing which differs as obviously the bolt pattern on a sr is different to a rb. Change the bellhousing over to suit the rb and it will work fine.

+1 this is almost as gay as that gtr thread that you made, every one just agrues about bullshit would drop a nice skid me thinks

my bro has a r33 gts, stock with exhaust and cold air, pulled a 14.6 at kwinana motorplex on street tyres. Its a bloody freak, noone really beleives it stock but it is haha most of the time, they are in the mid to low 15s bracket they feel slow maily because they are n/a and lack that on boost rush that turbo cars generally give. If you keep the rb25de in the happy zone ie 5000-7000rpm they tend to be ok

i've passed quite a few cars by just plugging the vacuum line going to the bov so they dont go off and make the noise. Not sure what the rules are where you are but in WA, bovs arent illegal to have on your car, just if they are too loud. By blocking the vacuum line, they can rev all they want, but its not going to make any noise. Just be prepared for them to be extremely picky, make sure there arent any oil leaks and make sure the car looks nice and clean, and mainly just know what your talking about so when they try to stick bullshit things onto the list you can defend yourself. Goodluck, they are the biggest bunch of assholes on the earth

and walbro rate there pumps at a voltage which isnt achieved in a "normal" car, sneaky haha

check fuel filter check air filter they are the only two things you have changed that will affect performance hootchy thats a cool pic btw haha

im happy either way im not in a rush to get them, im expecting to complete my build in 12months so aslong as i have the manifold by then im happy haha the cheaper the better, but if you want them now thats all good aswell.

true, but black also disperses heat faster white fmic would look as ugly as sin

if it was me i would take out the resistor pack and put the stock injectors back in if you still have them. At least that way you can cross out the injector side of things i would much prefer to run stock injectors on low boost on a stock ecu, than to run larger supra injectors on higher boost on a stock ecu

can vouch for allstar, they do really good work.

i hit r&r in my r33 gtst shitter on stock boost with BPU sparkplugs wont have the spark blown out at 7psi its the ecu shitting itself, they're known for it. Get somesort of management and it will be sweet

not a bad idea on a new engine since everything is wearing in but i see it doing close to nothing on a engine that was already "run in". If your engine was turning around metal that is able to be picked up by a magnetic, you have more things to worry about than oil filtration.

the compressor wheel is steel, unless its from a very late series 2 then it maybe nylon/plastic. The exhaust wheel is ceramic. I wouldnt be too worried about the exhaust side, the first decent rev will clean most of the junk out. If you want to do a good job on the compressor side, just undo the compressor cover. Theres 2 brackets on the back with a few bolts holding it in. Its very easy to pull off, that way you will have full access to the turbine and inside the cover itself. I would just use some degresser, since it should only have a bit of oil residue in there anyway and will come off easily with a rag. Just make sure the cover is in the same postion when you tighten the bolts/brackets back up

in principle they will, anything to help clean up you afr will net you hp gains, and better economy aswell in reality they are a very basic tool, that only offers 5 tuning points. Me and my bro did a n/a auto to turbo manual conversion on a mates r33, near the end of the conversion he was running out of money (as everyone does haha), but anyway he got the first generation safc for 40bucks. On the dyno it made bugger all difference (although this does come down to the tuner aswell), and the adjustments on the safc were barely adjusted. Long story short, if you could snap it up for say 50bucks, then get it tuned for a 100 (they take bugger all time to tune), then i say its probably worth it if you dont have big plans for the car, at the very least you may notice a difference in the fuel bill

how long does it take you to remove the front shafts?