R34GTFOUR

I always sikaflex my sumps on. Clean the block and sump with metho/thinners, nice big bead of sikaflex and bolt up.

Wouldnt bother with a gtr sump, like you said theres a diff you dont need and they arent the best design to start with (hence why theres trust extensions etc) Any rb25 sump will do the trick, the r33 rb25 engines are a dime a dozen so it should be easy to pick one up for cheap.

SOLD

Hey guys, I've got a HKS ETC for sale, i bought i for mine but its nearly impossible to get a harness for a r34 and i dont have time to manually wire it in so i thought i'll sell it. These are extremely rare to find and HKS no longer makes them so its a good opportunity to pick up one of the best 4wd controllers in the market. Basically it allows you to choose how much power you want to go to the front (0-50%) and for the r32 owners there a rwd mode at the push of a button so you can have some "fun" IMO they are much better than the other units since you can CHOOSE the torque level going to the front, where the other units just amplify the signals. This will make a huge difference to the way your gtr/gts4 handles and i've heard from quite a few people that this is one of the best mods they've ever done. Have a quick google search and you'll see what the rave is all about. I paid $400, I'll let it go for $350. Located in Perth, willing to post at buyers expense (would only be $10-$15) within aus. NOTE: this comes complete with the harness/wiring/plugs, but i dont have the main adapter so it "t's" intot he awd system. You'll have to source the adaptor or wire it in. If you have basic electrical knowledge you'll be fine otherwise just source an adaptor for your model (yahoo actions maybe??)

"ping is power"

The belt hasn't been changed so it's not a tooth out and my brothers r33 gts had his on full advance aswell for years (when it was na). I know what det sounds like, she ain't pinging. Also when the stock ecu hears det and takes out 15 degrees of timing all of a sudden its noticeable, which it definitely isnt doing. Not suggesting every just go and smash timing as much timing into theirs as possible, but for mine and my brothers, full advance worked a treat.

You need the shafts, the rear diff in ours is the same as a r33 gts (2x3 bolt pattern) where as the gtr is the same as the gtst (5x1 bolt pattern). Unfortunately (or fortunately depending how you look at it), the gtr shafts are thicker so you need to run gtr hubs aswell. I'll be doing a gtr diff swap in mine aswell (only using the r32gtr diff though), but the hubs and shafts should be the only other things needed.

Premium fuel goes a long way, I've been running mine at full advance for years, not a problem. Even in the peak of summer, full load, doesn't even think about pinging. Definitely give that CAS a little twist, free HP imo.

You'll have to change the rear diff to the same ratio as your front diff since the stock gt4 is different. So in essance you need a r34 gtr rear diff.

I totally forgot about posting the pics, but I haven't got any of them in the car but they fit spot on Look and fit like a factory mat, no comparison to the generic crap.

Yes and no. The neo head was designed to be more "emissions" friendly, so certain areas are leaning towards that and power/performance is sacrificed. Overall its not a bad engine, but I wouldnt say its much better than the r33 engine. If the ports are indeed as small as I've seen in the photos when compared to the DET head, then that would make it a big fail in my book.

Depending on how long you can afford to have your car off the road, take the inlet manifold off and get a stock r33 inlet gasket and pop it on. You'll be able to see the difference in the ports from that. From the pictures I've seen it looks more intensive then a die ginder job haha. I still can't believe its smaller than the turbo counterpart, the de and det heads on the r33's are exactly the same port wise I dont know why they would make them different on the 34's.

There's no point sticking a stock N/A ecu in there if you are still running the turbo injectors, it will run much worse (ie much richer again). You must run the same injectors as the ecu you are using (ie na injectors = na ecu). The AFM are interchangeable so no worries there. If it was me there would only be two options: 1.Get a powerfc or emanage at the very least (something that will tune fuel/air and ignition timing) and tune it. When you go to bolt the turbo back on you tune it to suit again. 2.Don't go to the extremes of rebuilding that engine back to N/A specs, waste of time and money. It would be much much easier just to pick up a cheap 2nd hand RB25DE for $500 or less, slap it in and be on your merry way. Remember if you buy a complete engine with manifold, injectors etc you'll need the na ecu. Its a full day job and you'll have the "proper" N/A engine. Again, once you are off your P's, pop the RB25DET back in and sell the RB25DE for what you bought it for. I would probably lean towards option 1 because its easier, but the beauty of option two is that you could do a "freshen up" rebuild on the DET engine to support bigger power down the track and you could still drive around with the DE engine whilst its getting done.

The head stud pattern is the same so it would bolt up just like a r33 rb25. The only problem i see is that: 1. The manifold is designed for side feed injectors and you would need to run a fuel rail to suit top feed as above, easily fixed with same spacers. 2. The idle control is different on the r34 so you would need to run a r33 AAC set-up an wire it up accordingly (haven't hit this hurdle yet, but I will when I'm closer to the build). Don't expect it to be hard to figure it out though. 3. The neo de head apparently has much smaller ports (just going off photos I've seen, but I'm going to double check this when my engine comes out), so the manifold will be far from "port matched". 4. The shorter runner style of the greddy will reduce down low torque and is more suited to FI, unless you're planning on really reving the old girl hard. I dont know about yours but the only thing that the neo DE has going for it is the lower down low torque compared to the non-neo DE, and this would work against that. Hopefully it would add to abit more top end as mind just dies in the ass after 6k rpm but I don't see it helping that much as I think the stock cams hold it back aswell. It does look a lot cleaner though, and the extra time you would save from spark plug changes would pay for itself

Yeah thats what I meant, on the GT's its only 12mm and the brakes are the same as the r33 gts. My brother has a r33 gts and we converted the brakes over to the gtst stuff at the same time as mine and both of ours were identical. If yours had the bigger 14mm bolt and is a GT-X i wonder why it didnt have the GT-T brakes on their aswell? It must only be the GT-V?

If you have a rb25 head on there, use the rb25 ARP studs. If you have a rb26 head on there, you can use either the rb25 or rb26 studs. It is prefered to use the rb26 studs if you are using the rb26 head but you will beed to drill out and re-tap the rb30 block to take the bigger studs. ARP 202-4301 is the part number for RB20 & Rb25

The R34 NA runs the same na calipers/rotors as the R33 NA. I've bolted the R33 gtst calipers and rotors on my R34, straight swap. If you want to run the R34 GTT stuff you need to drill out the caliper bolt hole to 14mm like you mentioned, but since theres a 12mm hole there to start off with you would have to be retarded to stuff drilling that out to 14mm.

the rb25 neo runs solid lifters from factory like the rb26's The tomie type B are 260 duration by 9.15mm and are designed as a "drop in" cam so you wont need machining to fit the cams. Springs would be a nice addition if you're planning on reving the thing (which i hope you are otherwise theres no point getting the cams haha)

I received mine a couple of days ago, I must say very impressed. Thanks for organising the group buy Dave and sorry to hear about your parents, hopefully everything pans out for you.

Nice cage, so much for the 4 door though haha Have you noticed a difference with cage, more rigid?

Yep, direct bolt in. The are the same box out of the r32 and r33 gtr, but run the push config clutch. Should be quite tough (as tough as a gtr box is )

Top work, will definitely turn some heads Just a couple of questions (You may of answerered it but I've missed it haha) How/where are you getting oil/coolant feed/drains from? What are the boxes like in these? Kudos on the project

Just read the whole thing from start to end, my eyes are tired... hahaha Mucho respect, the whole thing looks bloody tip top. The new air dam looks smick too

yes you'll need a gasket either side. Any turbo shop will be able to supply the flange, even an exhaust shop (a good one) should be able to supply one. It the same thing they use for the flange on the manifolds.

Tomei pon cams to suit the neo head will drop into the NA neo head. These cams are designed to retain VCT so you only put an adjustable gear on the exhaust side for tuning. The stock cams between the turbo and na neo heads have the same duration and lift (according to tomei), so if you mean switching to "turbo cams", make sure they are aftermarket neo cams.