R34GTFOUR

*runs to check wallet* no....

i wouldnt expect anymore than 30-40bucks for a set of just locknuts

not to shit stir but.... he did mean hoot no hoon. As in it looks like a hoot, ie looks like lots of fun???

are there any other mods done to the car? have you every had the engine out? any conversions etc? i would start with coilpacks personally, splitfires can be had for around the 480-490 mark these days, and if you were having problems with misfiring before maybe you just need a new set. What battery is in it and how old is it? Maybe try measuring the cranking voltage with a multimeter to get a rough idea how many volts the bosch pump is getting whilst cranking. Its pretty suprising with older batteries and efi cars, sometimes they seem like they are cranking over strong, but really the cranking voltage is too low for the ecu to work properly and get the car going, i had simular problems with my r34, new battery and presto.

if you take it to a tyre place they will just smash them off, and hopefully wont damage the rims if they dont have the key. Its nothing difficult. If you want to do it you self, go down to supercheap or something along those lines and get a cheap socket that is 1 or 2mm smaller than the locknut (its going to be rooted afterwards). Then with a hammer smash it on over the locknut then with a rachet undo it, done. This will destroy the locknut, and if you dont feel confident, dont do it cause you will do more damage than good.

its not real leather, you would be lucky to get one seat done at that price in leather, i think they call it a leathette from memory its meant to be the next best thing

exactly, thats what i reckon they do most commonly for the digital dashs. Also if you know some one dodgy in the dealerships, they can plug in to their laptops and adjust the digitial reading, but the only problem with this is that is leaves an "imprint" on the computer saying what dealership and date something was adjusted. My bros bosses son (bit of a tree haha), bought a a 93 r33 gtst with 65000km on the clock. I looked at it and laughed at him, biggest POS, not a chance its done less than 100000km. Even the waterpump was starting to leak coolant, and they dont go until the 150000km mark there are dodgy people out there, but like everyone said, judge the car on its condition

i havent installed on into a r34 yet, but a mate has a r34 gtt with a front mount and he retained his washer bottle, not sure if it was a just jap cooler though. Even if you couldnt keep it in its original postion, i cant see it being too hard to relocate it, or worse case situation just make up a custom washer bottom from some s/s and mount it up, it would look pretty too haha

...when you step out of your gts-t to a na r34 with a stock exhaust, but still make gate and bov noises as you drive which somehow makes the car "feel" quicker ...when you kick out the passenger to save 80kg to help win a race ...when you park 10mins away from a shop centre car park, which is only 5mins walk away from your house or ...when you have no other choice and have to park in a shopping centre carpark, you do so next to a large pillar or wall, thus decreasing your chance of being hit by a opening door by 50%

should of left the front shafts in and do some lawn helis haha sounds nice

^^^ f*k yeah, SSR's look tuff as definately drop it first

email and money both sent cheers

come on guys, come get your legendary 6boost manifolds woh woooooooh

^^^ lol my younger bro has a 023 in his r33, works fine. The tank is an odd shape and you have to make sure you put the pump in the exact same position as the stock pump otherwise it will have trouble picking up, especially when your low on fuel. We just modified the stock braket, which was very basic and just used big hose clamps to hold it on, but the side of the tank where the pump goes is very deep so just make sure you have the pump at the right height. Use a long metal ruler, or something along those lines to measure how deep it is to the bottom and use that info to properly install the pump.

it isnt over kill, the more head room you have the better. Any extra fuel that is pumped that isnt used is just returned to the tank anyway so go the 044. 250 + labor seems to be on the money, i would install it myself, but if you dont feel comfortable with it pay a workshop, i wouldn't expect anymore than 100bucks for an install.

i know what your trying to get at, your thinking along the lines of the force required to slow down the turbine because of its weight cannot be produced by the force that the "trapped" pressurised air stuck in the intercooler piping, i studied physics aswell haha But think along these lines, The turbine is spooled from the load that the engine produces, no load = pretty much no boost as you would know with free reving (lets not get too technical and mention antilag) I dont know why im saying this cause by the look of your post count you've been here for sometime and you know your stuff but anyway, so when you get off that throttle and slam shut that throttle body butterfly, that compressor doesnt have the driving force from the exhaust turbine that it had when the throttle was on and the engine was under load, so the inlet charge WILL overwhelm the compressor wheel and slow it down. Theres not a matter of ifs or buts, the inlet charge will reduce the turbine rpm, maybe not all that noticeable at lower boost levels, but when the intake charge is up there, i've noticed a difference. I've noticed with all my cars an instant improvement with a bov, atmo or plumbback. The same xr6t i mention above has a tad over 500rwhp and you can feel it slowing down in each gearchange, then have to spool again. Another mate had a stockish s14, no bov he ran a mid 13, nothing else changed expect a bov and he shaved .2 of a second off his time. If only every noticed nothing but improvements with a bov attached, and that why i stand by my original comment that i will never run a turbo car thats under my name without some sort of vent valve. Its got abit off topic, and its late so im heading off haha

aahh wat?? your telling me air being forced back into a turbine thats spinning the other way wont slow that turbine down, then once that turbine's rpm has been reduced it doesnt take more time to spool up the turbo the the rpm which is would still be at if there was a bov there??? im the one lol a mate of mine has a xr6t with no bov and the compressor surge is huge inbetween gearchanges when hes at 20psi, and there IS lag when he changes gears because of this. A bov in this situation WILL reduce spool up (or lag whatever you want to call it) time in between gearchanges when your on boost in the previous gear its not a myth, its plain old physics

oops double post

^^ meh its all fun and games mate, most of the time i lose it at his posts if i posted questions like "how do i stick another muffler in my exhaust cause i like the sound i air coming out of a compressor?" even though i knew it would reduce the performance in my performance orienated car, i would EXPECT to get smart ass replies, after all its a stupid thing to do. Also this topic has been covered a million times aswell, if people dont search they deserve abit of lip. this is of course imo...

yes, yes it is. If money wasnt really on object, supercharging would be a good path for a resposive daily driver, but if you want something cheap and quickish just bolt a turbo on it haha. I used to own a st162 celica, with a tad over 300hpatw and that was extremely fun to drive, so i have a soft spot for turbo fwd cars haha A mate of mine had a 2000 model 1.8L lancer which he bought brand new, which is more along the lines of yours, and soon after he to felt the lack of performance like you and decided to shoved some forced air into it. Anyhoo he got a t25g like your taking about from the old sr20's, slap it on with mircotech running the show and he netted 220hpatw on stock internals. Now in a car that weighed less than a tonne he pulled a 13.3 down the 1/4 and thats with wheel spin all the way through 2nd. Now i'm not saying defiantely go down this road after all its not ball bearing like you wanted, but from personal experience the t25g was extremely responsive, even on the 1.8L and at a bar of boost was a lot of fun to drive. Plus they are dirt cheap

the afm doesnt have to be in the front bar with the pod, leave the afm in the stock postion and run intake ducting to the front bar and have the pod connecting to that.

im guessing its an aftermarket pump, and when your running low on fuel, the sound of it pumping or buzzing echos more in the emptier tank making it more audiable. Fuel types arent going to change the sound

no bov = stupid yes its not going to "blow up" your turbo, bit it WILL create more lag in between gearchanges than necessary, i would never run any turbo car that i have without a bov. If you dont want the ptttch sound, plumb it back, easy. search, this has been covered to death

can you close this thread?? its bloody stupid 17yrs old, wants 2x 2000hp turbos to push 800rwhp, but wants it street driven to show his "mates" full of shit

give it at least a week and if no one replied, then get worried haha yeah i doubt we'll get more than 15ppl, but its worth a shot. It would be nice to snap them up for 900 though so we'll see how it will go but regardless as soon as theres abit more interest (ie one more person lol) i'll put my name down in concrete with the 200 deposit.