R34GTFOUR

very interested, whats the additional costs for coating or wrapping? cheers

i would also keen to see this because i need a new knob (mine has worn out from alot of hardcore movement ) and I've been trying to find some pics of it from the top but all they have is side on which sucks. Not to hijack the thread, but does anyone here have a gready/trust gearknob and if so, what do they think of it. Just wondering if it feels small in the hand cause it looks a tad small, the gearknob i mean...

i'd say he was wondering what model the bov is since it has a universal adaptor, there has been a few bltiz bovs made

i've got buddyclub coilovers in mine and i can tell you yours is definately not on the heighest setting. The buddyclubs can actually go higher than stock height on max setting, but they do have heaps of adjustment so you would still be able to drop yours quite abit more if you wanted. Looks nice and clean btw

thats a dump/front pipe, goes from your turbo to your cat. My bro bought one for $280, not bad at all. Looks good and i like it better than the old small split dump (which is like 15cm long) then you have to get a seperate front pipe.

this might be a silly question but are they both external gate lol

I take it that your Drift boost gauge just a cheap knock off, in which case its properly as useless as the stock one. Go out and get a proper brand gauge, personally i wouldnt use any thing less than autometer (not autogague) so that means around the 100-150mark depending where you get it from, if you want to spend more on apexi and the like thats all good, you'll probably get an even more accurate reading but in your case an autometer should serve you well. If you have the basic breathing mods done, ie fmic, turboback exhaust and filter than on low boost with no solinod you should be around the 6-7psi mark. The location on the manifold where you get your vacuum/boost reading doesnt matter as long as its definately a manifold feed.

i say that would be fun haha goodluck with it

you luv bouncing that limiter

if i got time i'll post up my r34 gtfour, roughly the same deal as yours. Only thing is mine is completly stock and is a slow turd atm, and with the stock exhaust it really chokes past 6k rpm (yours powers nicely to 7k)

to get the rb25 to fit you would need to use the backing plate from the rb25 otherwise it wont bolt up, but you would still be left in the same postion with the gap where it meets with the bottom cover (cause the rb30 is a taller block the covers wont cover the whole belt). Just use the rb26 cover and modify it to cover the whole belt

You only tend to find a difference with these grounding kits on older cars, since wires break down over time and slowly reduce the amount of current they can flow. On a newer car like a r34 i wouldnt expect to see any difference what so ever

clutches are different the gtt uses pull type the gtst uses push type

looks very tuff

400rwhp in a r32? that thing would be breaking traction coming onto boost in third haha have fun with it, just learn how the car behaves before you boot the shit out of it, 400rwhp is a fair chunk of power

thats a pretty amazing find. The only stock manifold that will fit the rb26 head, is the stock rb26 manifolds, they arent interchangable with the rb30. You could just use the stock rb26 inlet and have the afm on the drivers side of the car instead of the passengers side, but a custom exhaust manifold (extractors) will need to be made up at an exhaust shop. There arent any n/a rb26 so theres no aftermarket support for na extractors. Are you sure it was built with n/a in mind? it seems like a waste for such an engine to be n/a haha For the timing coverside of things, a rb26 cover needs to used but you will find there will be a gap where it meets up with the bottom timingbelt cover, since the rb30 block is taller than the rb25/26 blocks. To do the job properly you need to weld a piece of sheet metal to extend the cover so it meets with the bottom cover. I wouldnt recommend driving around with no timingbelt cover, you dont want dirt floating around in there.

50m with no oil pressure should be okay, if it spun a bearing because of that i would be extremely suprised. I would say you will be ok, but thats if you lost oil pressure, theres still a chance that you just have a faulty sensor (although unlikely). I had a mate, who wasnt very mechanically minded, and he tried to do a oil change on his skyline, anyhoo he didnt tighten the oil filter very well and it came off while he was driving. As you can imagine he lost all his oil, and no pressure and drove it a good 5mins home (stupid). All he did was top it up with oil, put a new filter on and even to this day its still going strong. As long as you werent belting up on it, it should be fine

the harmonic balancer is on a key and is pressed on when the bolt is tighted up, so once the bolt is undone its still pressed on. You needed a harmonic balancer puller (supercheap sells them), and woolaa off it comes.

a 35/40 too small??? they run them on the 4L xr6turbo motors and they dont choke, definately a goer for the rb30

the xr6 turbo is a genuine garrett 35/40 and is a spot on turbo for the 3L bottom end in respect to topend power and response. Just look at some of the dyno results with the 35/40 and you can see how well it performs. The only difference i'ce noticed is the xr6 turbo has a slightly different front cover (doesnt effect anthing, just looks different), and is internally gated with a 1.06 rear housing. If you talk to different people some will recommend the .82 housing over the 1.06, but i think any difference would be minimal with spoolup time with the 3L bottom end anyway. Good thing about the xr6 turbo is that they go pretty cheap (all the xr6 boys upgrade) so you can cash in on that. A mate of mine has 460rwhp on 19psi boost on his xr6turbo and another has just pumped over 550rwhp on the stock turbo (gets full boost by 2500rpm). Bloody great turbo imo

yep

dont have that problem with mine, never smell fuel. I would look at getting a new fuel cap, you shouldnt be seeing fumes coming from the filler cap

a car can still have a blown headgasket without any of those symptoms. Does the coolant smell like exhaust at all? Not saying its defiantely a headgasket From those symptoms i would of thought a stuffed radiator cap, purely because it fits all your problems. A radiator cap that isnt sealing properly, will send alot of coolant to you overflow bottle, it will make you hoses feel soft since its not holding pressure, and it wont allow the cooling system to work properly since it relies on pressure. Car cooling systems are pretty simple, so it shouldnt be hard to figure out the problem. Check the thermostat aswell, even if it was a genuine nissan item

blue smoke = rings/melted piston definately rebuild time

did you check if it had any oil? eitherway, if the engine has only been run for 3 days and went through that oil thats a problem by itself. They'll just stick a mechanical oil pressure gauge on it and see what it reads. Hopefully its not a buggered oil pump