R34GTFOUR

nope it wont fit. If you got a rb26 cam cover and put that on your engine, then the tomie coilpack cover would fit otherwise its a big negative

boost controller, instant hp

sorry for the offtopic question but does your mate run stronger valve springs with those cams at that powerlevel, or is the head otherwise untouched?? cheers

there cool until some useless shit throws a rock through the rear window... not my 34, but a mates. Took him 3months and 3 grand to get one from nissan japan, luckily he was insured

SAFC = fuel only tuning E-manage = fuel and timing tuning i know which one i would get

i think you mean does the manual torque switch work from a 32 works in a 33 the answer is no unfortunately. The 33/34 can still use the torque splitter, but only to increase front torque, not decrease it or disable it to go RWD. The reason for this is the 32 gtr is essentially a rwd car untill attessa kicks in and powers the front (thats also why the attessa seems lazier in a 32 than a 33/34), the 33/34 on the other hand always has power going to the front, around 5-10% from memory. By running a 33/34 in rwd, ie turning off attessa, it can damage the front diff as it relies on the attessa pump for lube, and with no attessa pump = no lube = damage.

yeah pretty much, but with a highflow its like a new turbo anyway and its got the postive of looking stock = less cop dramas When pulling apart a turbo to change the exhaust wheel, you get new seals put through it while your there, and then it has too be balanced (which is were the money is spent), and while your there you might as well stick a bigger compressor wheel on it and highflow it. I had the same turbo as that mr2 on my celica, it was ceramic and after about 16months on 18psi it broke a wheel. I stuck a steel wheel on it with the stock compressor wheel and it just made the turbo laggy and lazy, so i took it off and got a new bigger compressor wheel and hiflowed and it was like a new turbo. Best to spend that extra few bucks and get it done in one hit and then you dont have to worry about it again.

Sweet as, thanks for the replys guys. Its the only part that really lets the interior down so I'll go out and get some nice paint and make her look like new again. Cheers again guys

*shakes head* you sir are an idiot okay im gonna drop the boost down in my cars now cause it will "run less backpressure and give me more power"

My vote goes with valve dropping Big end bearings wont make it drop 100psi in compression, unless its got that bad that its thrown a rod out the side haha, and the oil would of been metalic If it has just dropped a valve your extremely lucky to of only been idleing, you may get away with only new valve guides and valves. A mate of mine's timing belt tensioner bolt snapped in his r33 (so the timing belt then came off), which also only happened at idle which was lucky, and he ended up snapped the heads of each valve. We stuck a second hand head on it and she was as good as gold.

it would also be interesting seeing how they ran the exhaust, considering its normally on the other side. Especially with the driveshaft going to the trasfer case, i wouldnt think that would leave much room for a nice flowing exhaust *edit* just watched the video, its got some big bends putting it back on the "right" side

even if its a flat 12s car from the factory, imagine letting it breath that bit more with a straight through exhaust and run that extra few psi, shall go extremely hard i reckon

Hey all, Just trying to brainstorm some ideas, for a mate of a mate of a mate. Quick background, its a series 2 gtst motor thats been put into a hq ute, should be a lot of fun once its done. The car is about 3hrs drive away, and i havent seen its since he put the motor in and hes being ringin me every second day with problems, mainly electrical and its come to the point where he is going to tow the car up to my place so i can check it out, which im not really looking foward to. The car is running a powerfc (brand new), and the harness was modifed to suit the hq by a mob over east who apparently has done this conversion before, but some of the things they have done to the harness that hes told me about doesnt fill me with confidence. Anyhoo the car is also running a z32 afm and q45 throttle body. He has told me he has selected z32 under the afm menu on the powerfc so that should be fine. Now to the problem at hand. He's telling me that he getting no postive and signal voltages from the throttle body, and the car is running like shit and wont rev over 2 grand. I told him to measure the voltage straight out of the ecu pinout to cancel any chance of the harness being the culprit, still no voltage, which concerns me cause i dont know of any reasons why the ecu wont put out a voltage to the throttle body, on either tps pinouts (postive, signal). He tries swapping out the powerfc with the stock ecu, and still no voltage sent out to the tps. So i was just wondering what you guys think might stop an ecu from sending out the tps voltage?? Hopefully the harness isnt screwed and fried the ecu, because now the car wont even start at all. It cranks and cranks but nothing. Its giving injector pulses to the injectors so thats all good, and its got spark (which he tells me looks a tad weak, but should be enought to start) so its got me stumped. I suppose ill find out in a couple of weeks whats going on when he brings it up here, its always hard describing problems over the phone, then over the net haha. cheers for any help heres some pics of the ute i was working on

Hey all, Just running a small survey to gather some information for business purposes. It would be really helpful if you could spend the 90 seconds to run through it! 1. What size of tyre do you mainly need? 18inch 2. What do you mainly use your tyres for? 70% Daily driving, 25% Daily hard driving. 5% track 3. What is the main reason that you buy your tyres from your supplier (New or Used)? Example: Cost? Service? Cost 4. Would your driving style change if the cost of tyres was dramatically dropped? Possibly 5. What would you consider a fair price for a decent used set of 2 tyres? (Example: Bridgestone Potenza RE040 with 40% tread or more) 100bucks for decent tread 6. Would you be interested a bit extra if I could deliver to your door? nope 7. Would you be interested in paying slightly more for same day delivery? nope 8. What is your preferred brand of tyre? Federals 9. Would be interested in a fair rebate for every friend you refer? Yep

Hey everyone, just wondering if anyother r34 owners out there have noticed a simular thing. In the center of the dash were the air vents are, stereo and the plastic bottom section that the gearboot is clipped is the main area of concern. It got a grey paint from factory, which is also used on the window switch panel, and i've noticed during a hot day, these panels start to get sticky, kinda like the paint is softening, and if you scratch at it with your finger nails it comes off quite easily. When its cold, its fine. I just wasnt sure if its a common problem, but if it is, is there a special paint code that anyone knows cause i'd like to repaint it. Also, the whole centre section of my dash (vents, stereo and gearboot peices) are all the same grey colour, but i've noticed with some r34's that they have the same colour for the vents as mine, but their plastic peice for the stereo and gearboot and a much lighter grey (i have seen this in the r34 gtr's aswell), just wondering who has what colour scheme. Sorry about the ramdom post, but its something thats been getting at me haha cheers

^^^ good point

i would of though oil supply issue aswell. Thoses cams show oil stavation, and if you spun a big end that explains it. before you put it all back together, see why it was staving of oil

that front bar is off a 4 door, thats why it looks different

like mentioned above, numbers are numbers, track speed at the 1/4 mile is a good indicator of its true hp, not saying your result isnt accurate. imo a dyno is just a tuning tool, i've seen far to many variences from dyno to dyno to believe hp readings. The only way to accurately compare cars on a dyno is to have one after another on the same day and same dyno, otherwise there are too many variables. as long as the afr is safe, and its not knocking you should be happy

gfb make a "steath" bov that has vented and plumback options. You can just adjust the bov so it purely only vents back into the plumback, my bro has one on his r33, seems to do the job nicely.

did i say public road? did my last post have something do with hitting the limiter on cold startup as a joke? would one assume that i was "might" be joking about 4th gear limiter? i have never had my car impounded, winding out 4th generally ends the pursuits...

like a poor dog in pain, i would put that thing out of its misery and crush it

yeah metal intake piping makes a huge difference to intake sounds. The stock rubber intake absorbs quite abit of the induction sound, put a nice alloy or stainless pipe in place of it and you'll notice a nice jump in db's haha

meh, i still like my limiter in 4th...

?? hes running the stock r33 turbo, last time i looked they werent ball bearing