R34GTFOUR

haha thats cause they're slackers. It shouldnt take anymore than an hour if you know what your doing.

the suction sound can be affected by the filter itself, some are louder than others. the suction sound can also be affected to what boost level your running, more boost, more suction, more noise. The "flutter" sound is compressor surge, and that is affected by the setting of the bov. If the bovs spring is set hard, then its not going to release the intake charge as much as a soft set spring, therefore you will have more "flutter" going back through the turbo and out the pod. Even though you and you mates may have simular mods, ie pod, bov, fmic, the brands themselves and they way the are setup can affect the noise

thats abit scary... whos your tuner? you'll notice an increase if you bump up the boost, and its probably the best bang for your buck mod you can do. Although thats not going to help with your afr, the ecu is already running rich and its going to continue overcompensating fuel, ie running rich. The only thing to help you with that is a piggyback like a safc, or a new ecu like powerfc.

i've found that if i bounce on the limter first thing in the morning, it warms the engine up quicker....

If your only chasing 250rwkws than 6k should fit in that budget, but it also depends on what damage has happened to your current engine. The neo rb25 (the engine you have), is a bloody strong engine which can handle alot of abuse. Im not too sure why yours decided to die, but if its low on compression lets say worse case senario you melted a piston or your rings stop sealing. So just a basic rebuild and freshen up, ie new bearing, new rings, all new seals, new pisons (if 250rwkw is all your chasing stick with new stock pistons), and keep everything else like your rods, cams etc then i would expect a bill of around 2500-3000. Aa new clutch for 800-1000 to handle the power A new turbo (gt2871R should get that power and be ultra responsive on will be a bolt on but wont leave you much head room for more power, or go a gt30r to chase bigger numbers which would be around 1700-1800 A fuel pump wouldnt be a bad idea You have most of the bolt on stuff, but you'll need a good tune which is more $$$ So you can see it'll add up very quickly but if you shop around and get some knowledge of what the parts are worth your budget should be intact, but this is assuming you are willing to do some of the work yourself

thats a very vague question, all depends how much power you want, and how much money you have to spend. Wats the compression readings on your current motor? what mods do you have right now? The engine itself wont be the limiting factor if your running the stock turbo, you could rebuild your engine to factory spec but with the stock turbo your not going to get much over 270rwhp. The price of a rb26 would out weigh the cost of rebuilding your current engine (depending whats wrong with it), and you would still be stuck with a second hand engine if you went the rb26 route. Theres heaps of info on here about the pros and cons of pretty much an setup you could think of, so have a search around and get a general understanding of whats possible. You could rebuild yours to factory spec, or build it tough with forged internals you could get an rb26 engine or you could stick a rb30 bottom end and get even more displacement (theres a whole thread on that one) Before you go crazy with rebuilds, if you want more power, you'll need the basics, like FMIC, full exhaust, boost controller, better clutch etc all depends on what power your chasing anyway welcome to SAU

i baby it when its cold, making sure i dont rev over 3k, then i tend to boot the shit out of it all day long

yeah, the hand controller tends to be more of a visual aid then anything. Most tuners just plug in a laptop to tune the powerfc than use the handcontroller. Personally i would spend the extra 200 on the controller, but thats just me cause i like to fiddle with things haha.

but those afr are dirty. get a safc at the very least (or powerfc if you have the cash) and you'll notice a nice jump in midrange and topend power

sweet, i'll definately be in on that. It'll give me some time to think of designs haha

use them as rags then??

is the twin plate a hyper metal or hyper carbon? also how many kms has it seen, with what sort of driving? cheers

when facing the front of the engine it will go clockwise

i definately would be keen if there was another group buy, just to let you know... haha they look good

yep thats right, r33 gtst push type clutch is needed

looking good, just a quick side question, what was the quality like of the tuneagent manifold? cheers

yep well that confirms it, start ripping that head off and you'll see the damage...

i'd say you have a severly melted piston, or missing a nice chunk of it. But you would have a lot of piston blowby, and it would blow alot of smoke

i doubt the valve would be jammed open cause the rb25 isnt a free running motor, which means if the valve stays open the piston will smash into it which isnt a good thing haha. i mate of mine had a sr20det that pulled 0psi on one piston, but that had severe detenation and the piston had a massive hole in it so its possible. Finish off the rest of the test and see what comes up

i wouldnt believe a reading of 120 if i couldnt hear it, like i said knocking becomes quite clear around the 80 reading on the handcontroller. At 120 its pinging its nuts off and people in a car next you would also clearly hear it, thats how severe it is. This isnt to say the car isnt suffering from detention even if the reading is incorrect, but to be safe take it to a dyno and then you can rest assure everything is ok

you'll find the wrx's actually spike from factory to around 15-16psi then drop off to around 12psi and hold that to limiter. If you stick any stock rex on the dyno and monitor boost levels you'll see what im talking about. They do this to make it feel really strong coming onto boost and as most old blokes dont really rev the things past 5grand they think its super quick. With a rom tune you can get them to hold the 15psi boost level across the rev range, makes a fairly big difference.

i wouldnt have it in the glove box, like you said the line would be too long. You want the shortest possible line going from the soleniod to the wastegate actuator for best boost control and to help spiking. If your putting the stock box back in that gives you a few spots to hide it next to. Why do you want to hide it?

any vaccum line from the inlet manifold will do the job. Just t-piece into that and there you go.

radiator support isnt a major thing, you can buy that brand new from nissan and isnt all that hard to replace but obvoisly if you want to keep cost down you would just find a left over half cut and use that one. The main concern is the chasis rail, if thats crushed or bent at any place along the car you need to spend alot of time getting that right otherwise your gonna have alot of dramas with wheel allignments. If you are going to do this yourself, its going to take a while but theres no reason why you cant do it. Things like the k-frame and steering rack most of the time are left over from a half cut, so you should score that for pretty much nothing. Start by ripping the motor out and start accessing the damage from there. Have fun

f*k yeah, tip top work SK its only a matter of time until people start bolting turbos on 350Z over here and you'll actually see them on the streets, i know theres a few going around but i never see any as dailys