R34GTFOUR

the ratios are different but most of the ratio difference is done through the different ratio diff and transfer case of the gts4 the box is internally the same strength, same sized shafts, bearings etc etc the bellhousing is much larger on a pull type setup and they definately are different to the push type

haha and you'll be even more pissed of when you loss your licience for 6months for hoon charge and once you get you licience back you still only have 1 point cause thats what happens. My older bro only had 3 points left, got hoon charged, then only had 3points once he got his licience back. It sucks testicles...

if you washed in the engine bay its just water, should clear up shortly. Most like water mucking around with a sensor or water in the coilpacks causing it to ark out. My bro did this to his skiz, went a bit "crazy" with car lovers hi-pressure hose in the engine bay and it was running on like 4-5 cylinder for a day or two haha, dumbass. Anyhoo once he took it for a decent drive and let everything dry it went back to normal as all is sweet.

just on a side note, with option 1, your only getting 25% more clamping pressure which is bugger all, i'd be suprised if you actually noticed a difference over a brand new stock clutch. If you were having trouble with you clutch slipping and not going very well with launches get something slightly more stronger When you go searching for clutchs, no one will know what your car is. Just say you are looking for a r33 gtst push clutch to suit an rb25det and you'll see the shitload of options avaliable. your clutch, r33 gtst clutch = SAME, SAME

option 1

yeah the difference is in how it engages, but its not only the clutch that determines if its a pull or push. The bellhousing is different between the two aswell as the slave cylinders. The gts4 will run the gtr GEARBOX but not the BELLHOUSING. The bellhousing is the front part of the gearbox which bolts to the engine. The gtr bellhousing allows for the pull types setup where as yours will allow only for the push. The internals of the gearbox however are the same, so its physically just as strong as a gtr, gearbox wise. If you get a r33 gtst PUSH TYPE clutch it will work, so option 1 is for you

hey mate, in reality its much better just starting off with the gtst, even though the particular car your looking at might be a good deal. For the extra couple of grand you'll get a real gtst, that has the better setup from day dot and when it comes to the point of selling it you'll get a better resale value for it. Unless your really good with your tools and can get parts really cheap its honestly not worth your while, but its upto you.

nah its the actual key that varies. If you look at the cas where it slides into the cam the keyway might be different. I definately know r33 and r34 cas's are different and wont bolt on opposite motors. Worse case senario, if the gtr cams do run a different cas to what you have, just get that gtr cas and use that instead. The 3 bolt pattern that bolts the cas to the front cover is the same across the skylines, its just the keyway that varies..

the stock boost level can vary from skyline to skyline, things like different mods can make a huge difference My bros runs 7psi with nothing connect but a vaccum line (he normally runs a bar through it), but either way you'll need some sort of boost controller to get to the magical 10psi mark and a simple bleed valve will do the job

mine rocked up today, everything looks sweet as, i left postive feedback for you cheers

the wastegate actuator is around the 7psi, but if you have a full turbo back exhaust you may get around the 8-9psi mark Although my bros gets 7psi with no boost controller and he has a turbo back exhaust Get a decent boost gauge (not a defi copy) so you know what boost you are actually running, and if you only want around 10psi get a turbosmart bleed valve or a gfb atomic boost controller (no more than 80bucks) and that will do the job nicely untill you can afford a ebc.

the gtr is pull type (expect the early 32) and the gtst is push (except very late series 2 r33s) so there will be a difference i would expect yours to be the same as a gtst clutch push type my gtfour runs the same gearbox as the r33 gtr (which i would assume yours would be similar to if not the same) and it also runs a r33 gtst push type clutch

top info mate, thanks something to think about either way i definately running aftermarket cams so im still undersided whether just to delete vct and run an adjustable cam gears with either an external oil feed for the front bearing or do what you do or just run an external oil feed and keep vct (tomie poncams are designed for it anyway) and have an adjustable cam gear on the exhaust side only hmmm, if got some thinking to do...

what about the cas side of things? does the gtr run the same cas as the neo motor cause the last thing you want to do is get a gtr exhaust cam and find out that the r34 cas wont bolt up. You might have to get a tomie gtr inlet cam so that you can disable vct and still run your adjustabe cam gear but then buy a tomie neo exhaust cam so you can still use the cas (if they are different than the gtr) your gonna be my guinea pig cause i'll be doing something similar and i need to sort this out aswell lol

dont want to hijack this thread but... i have found that quite a few people doing the rb30det build are disabling vct and i was just wondering why? you still have to provide an extrenal oil feed to it regardless if you are using it as that oil feed also runs into the cam journels for lubrication, so if you have the oil supply there, why not use it for vct aswell, its not like its any extra work? SK said that he had found that the tomie cams were well tuned out of the box, and he didnt notice any difference with adjustable cam gears, so why not run vct on the inlet side and get that better down low torque and have an adjustable cam gear on the exhaust side and use that to fine tune it? just wondering cause im looking into this build for myself and need to get these sort of things understood before i start buying lots of expensive parts

yeah im interested in this aswell. From what i've gathered you cant run your adjustable cam gear with the tomie cam thats been designed with vct, cause as you said your cam gear has 4 bolts and the vct inlet cam has 1 and obviosly wont bolt up. I think it was lukevl, that was in another thread that you replied in about your cams, that mentioned that he made adaptors so the stock vct inlet cam could have an adjustable gear put on so i would assume that you could get that same adaptor and put it on your tomie cam to fit the cam gear. So if you didnt buy your cams yet, i think the better option would to by the normal tomie neo exhaust cam like you have and for the inlet side by a tomie (or whatever) inlet cam that is suited to a non vct rb25 so you can install the cam gear. or Get a set of gtr cams and bolt them in and since the gtr doesnt run vct you can put both cam gears on without any dramas, also since the neo head runs solid lifters i doubt you would need the gtr cams reground to suit a hydralic lifter setup in the r33 rb25 head

stainless is only better cause it wont rust away in 10yrs, but i honestly think mild steel gives a better sound. It absorbs the resonance better and give a slightly deeper tone, which you want since yours is na. Theres nothing worse than a barking high pitched na exhaust i wouldnt expect a huge jump in power, but like gts4wd said there should be a noticeable difference across the rev range. If you opted for the extractors as well as a full exhaust then i would expect more than 4kw gain

depends how hard he was on it, a few rev limter launches and that clutch will start to feel soft, remember the weak point isnt the tyres like in a rwd its the clutch and this thing is just gonna grip and go looks nice and neat, get some nice shocks (coilovers if your can afford it) and the thing will handle like a train on rails.

thats strange the dyno graph shows it holding the 213rwkw all the way to redline and there is no drop off (just torque which is normal) so the car should feel strong uptop. Its also strange that the tuner couldnt effect the power reading, by adding and removing timing by itself should effect the power pretty significantly. Try taking it to another tuner and see what they say on the dyno are the injectors just stock injectors hiflowed? If they are drilled out too far it can affect the spray pattern which can affect power but there are heaps of variables

a power fc reading of 125 is false, if it was correct you would definately hear it even if you didnt know what knock is. The knock sensor has picked something else up and like explained above there are many things that create the "frequency" that the knock sensor is tuned to detect, even rocks/pebbles being flung up into the engine bay can set this off. If you are driving around with the normal max knock sensor of 40 thats ok. Anything around a true knock reading of 80 or so and knocking or pinging whatever you like to call is audible. You'll know when it pings, its a very distint noise. To make yourself sleep a bit easier, stick it on the dyno and get a pull done just to double check afr's and knock levels cheers

http://marksink.com/tire_wheel_offset/offset.html

thats bloody good fuel economy, i barely get 400kms from mine and i just replaced the o2 sensor... back on topic, i did a aus trip a couple of years back and it was fun, nothing like just crusing at 150-160 on the nullarbor* just watch out for roos, no dawn or dusk driving *this may or may not be true lol

how many kms has the engine done? what oil/viscosity are you running? how often do you change your oil? Its most likely just worn lifters that are "tapping", and if thats the case then its not going to require a rebuild if you dont have the mulah yet, everything will still work, it will just slowly get louder over time and doubt you'll lose any performance. Try running some thicker oil as this may help quiten it up but the real fix will be a head recondition (ie new lifters, check cams etc)

^^^ just make sure its literally a drop or two of oil, otherwise theres a good chance that you'll blow the comp gauge up lol

the more negative offset, the further the wheel will stick out the guard. so +22 will stick further out than +35, but +35 is a tad to much posive offset anyway for a gtr, that would suit a gtst since the gtr has wider guards you need less offset to "fill" the guards, so with your gtr a +22 offset wheel that should sit fine. imo something around the +10 to +15 offset would look good, without getting you into trouble the radius is the rolling diameter of the rim and tyre wall height. Since your running both 19 inch rims just make sure you match up the correct profile if your having different width tyres cause the tyres wall height is determined by the profile and width of the tyre. If your not sure just run it past a tyre shop and they make sure its all sweet for you cheers