R34GTFOUR

sweet

yep will be fine, as long as the brakes arent stupidly big, but if you have +30 on there now and the brakes clear you shouldnt have any dramas

standard offset on the stock rims is +38, so +40 will fit and if your brakes are stock it wont hit. Although personally, i would go the +30 offset to have more flush with your guards, the tyres wont be outside your guard but it will just make the stance look a bit tougher imo. The +15 offset is along the lines of a gtr and you'll have a far bit of the rim outside the guard which is no good

is its a rumble/ knocking noise that generally is bigend/main end bearings which is rebuild time. ticking can be more head/cam/lifters which isnt really a problem, noisely lifters wont cause damage its hard to help just with you saying you hear ticking, after all it could be anything even noisy injectors tick. Does it sound up top in the head or down in the block? will it do it with the bonnet up whilst you free rev it?

In wa your allowed a pod filter as long as you have a bracket made up to secure it, it doesnt have to be inclosed and it can be oiled. Just got a gtst across the pits, with a pod, fmic, exhaust and bov and they dont really care as long as its secured and wont fall off. Like everyone said this will vary from state to state, and most of the time if your not a dickhead the cop will let you go, but the second your a smart ass they'll find something to defect you for even if its legal..

yeah i wouldnt be too happy with those results. The actual figure doesnt really matter, its the varience between each cylinder that is a real indicator as long as each one doesnt read 0 haha. a drop of 25psi is a tad too much in my books, how does the car run/idle? and whats the history of the engine ie kms etc? the results show a tired engine, but not a broken one.

leaking from the turbo end or down near the sump? If its leaking where it meets with the block thats an easy fix, just tighten the hose clamp but i doubt its that cause nothing is that easy haha. If its leaking from the oil return on the turbo you may need to take the turbo off so give yourself a few hours to do that. Are you using banjo fittings or the stock setup?

i dont think the 10mm would make that much difference to the cvs, cause at the end of the day thats what they are designed to do, otherwise everytime there was travel in the suspension or anyone that lowered a gts4/gtr would be snapping shafts left right and centre i'll most likely get one of these kits as soon as my build date gets a bit closer

haha i dont count flappy paddle box as manual if it doesnt have a physical clutch petal that i can stomp on then its not manual imo, i hate when manufactures say semi-manual ITS AUTO lol

im 99% sure your right. the first mark is TDC, then second mark is 5degrees BTDC and third is 10degrees BTDC and so on it should be at 15 degrees BTDC at idle though

i read it as she didnt use any of the turbo timer functions at all, but just re-reading it i think you could be right lol those 1/4mile/0-100km/hr times only work if you buy an aftermaket g-force box which is worth more than the turbo timer itself. I only used mine if i was on boost a 1min before i shut it down, otherwise i didnt bother

hahaha i find it funny that instead of just saying get a pony, you are very specific and it has to be a "shetland pony" lol

where does the gtfour fit in???? hahaha

better add to the street cred as well for a 100bucks...

why do you have it if you dont use any of the monitor displays or the turbo timer itself?

on a na car it will only make a difference if you have severally been booting the shit out of it, ie doing a stand still burnout for 5mins straight without any air flow, otherwise there will be silch difference. My bro has just put a turbo timer on his na 33, but thats maily cause its going to have a turbo on it in less than 2 weeks and its on less job to do once its been converted haha

every turbo will have shaft play, whether its brand new or 100k km old, its just depends how much play. The bearing type will affect the type of shaft play and generally you will find the non ball bearing type, "floating" bearings which are in the stock skyline turbos will have a bit of play. When there is no oil pressure there will be more play, and if you could check it with oil pressure you would find the play would pretty much go away, but thats impossible to check without losing a finger haha. By play i mean only slight movement, almost barely noticeable, if you can move it a more than 1mm thats not good

yeah, but the rear stud is in an absolute prick of a position and you would have to be a magician to get a weld in there, let alone a decent one

it just takes time and patience, and you'll get it. Since it the most rear stud it might be worth your while in getting a right hand drill adaptor like it was said above. Just drill the inside of the stud, slow and steady and peel the stud out and run a tap through to tidy up the thread. Its a pain in the ass but nothing an hour with the drill and a few drill bit wont fix, good luck

lol its just a cover, its not like you have to rip the engine out, it takes 5mins to stick a cover back on, or better yet drive around with nothing on I'll be keen if theres another group buy, so i'll keep checking

cheap, get a angle grinder and chop a coil off the standard spring hahaha what you budget? best would be coilovers like already said, if you only want to spend 2-3hundred get a set of kingsprings or the like and install them

are you running twin turbos on a rb25?? well if the lowest reading is 125 then thats a 25psi difference and thats a tad too much try and do a leak down test and see where its leaking, ie rings, headgasket, valves etc if you dont really have the cash to fix it, dont push it then cause by the sounds of things the engine has hard a rough life and is on its last legs. In saying that if it was me i would still be booting the shit out of it, you gotta teach these engines a lesson...

hey mate congrates with the car, they have a factory figure of 206kw at the flywheel so around the 190-200rwhp would be expected, up the boost abit, get a nice fmic and turbo back exhaust with a tune and you should be around the 270rwhp mark. im running buddy club coilovers in my 34, goes well and has plenty of height adjustment. My bro has teins in his skiz but doesnt have anywhere near the height adjustment as the buddyclubs, it still goes low but its probably just something to think about depending how low you want it. have fun

it all comes down to the driver, and thats what makes racing even more fun cause you can get a retarded driver in a "quick" car get its ass handed to it by someone with no mechanical sympathy in a slower car. My younger bro has a 95 gtst which is stock besides a fmic, exhaust and 14psi (no tune) and he got a 13.3 at kwinana motorplex, i dont see a stock calias doing that. So if you can launch your car well, and hit gears hard, theres no reason why you cant get him in a straight line imo

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