R34GTFOUR

down by 10psi isnt a real issue, its not perfect but if the biggest variance you have is 10psi between the highest reading and lowest reading piston thats should be ok. How many kms has the motor done? What oil are you running? If the motor is just a little tired because of high kms, hence the oil burning, i would still beat up on it. Change the oil and filter before you go, and have some fun i would say.

r33 gtst use push type clutches, its only the very late series 2 gtst's use a pull type r33 gtrs use pull types, early r32 gtrs use push, later r32 gtrs run a pull all the gearboxs are interally the same, its just the bellhousings that differ which determines if its a pull or push type so they only way this is correct: "It's for an R33 GTS-T or GTR 93-96" is if the gtst is a very late series 2 which is rare try and find out if its either a push or pull type and then we can determine what car it will fit. cheers

theres a guy on antilag, which runs a hilux with a rb20det and that runs purley on gas. Seems to run tip top, still does a wicked skid but he did mention that cold starts are a little rough with the gas but still driveable.

how old is your intercooler? you'd be surprised at the amount of oil that is built up in the intercooler over the years of driving, especially if you dont have an oil catch can, and that can lead to a restriction. What cams you running? I know of someone that was pushing over 500wrhp and he was running a trust core, then swap over to a china core and didnt make a difference on the dyno, which suprised me.

hey mate, what oil are you using? Different viscosities in oil will give different readings. I run 10w40 in mine and when its cold it will read about 6 1/2 at idle, then when it warms up it will be at 3 at idle. When i rev it once warm, it will go as high at 5 on the gauge. I wouldnt 100% trust your stock gauge, if your worried about stick a aftermarket oil pressure gauge and get a proper psi reading.

hahaha so true, my mate is coughing up over 500bucks to fill his XR6T with race fuel for motorvation, thats gotta hurt the pocket...

he said that it wasnt overboosting according to the gauge so i would assume that would throw all the overboosting causes via boost controller set to high or no lines hooked up to the actuator. Its not the forward facing plenum, has really nothing to do with it, just a coincidence you spat out two exhaust wheels just after installing. What boost is it running though? And how many kms on the turbo? If its got a turbo back exhaust which would give higher than stock boost, and high amount of kms, it could just be the end of the turbo but it is weird that they both failed at the same time

meh, you dont buy a skyline or any "performance" car for that matter for good fuel economy, you do it cause you enjoy driving. Even though i dont like spending more money on fuel, i still think its relatively cheap. I mean, its my only means of transport and one of my biggest hobbies yet it only cost me 50-60bucks a week to run the thing (beside obvious maintenance), i spend over double that in a night on the piss

yeah to get the extra clearance you need to jack the engine up abit, you can get away with just lifting it up without unbolting the mounts, but you have to be careful you dont go too far and break them. Was the starter motor clicking like when you have a dead battery? With a seized motor you should only really hear the one intially click or clunk when the starter motor trys to engage then it shouldnt make any other noises cause obviously it cant turn, seems strange. As for the oil, even just open the oil cap and stick your finger in and get a little "sample", although getting it from the sump would be better. is the noise definately bottom end when it knocks or is it coming from the head? could be sticky lifters and when they are cold they tap, but once it warms up, they get full oil pressure and quiten down, another possiblity anyhoo, start mucking around with it and see how you go.

hahaha 6months is plenty of time to sell it... i did it to a mates sr20det, 2yrs later and its still good, i suppose it depends how long it was driven with the spun big ends

or you could spend $200 on new shells and replace the bearings motors dont just seize, you have to find the problem that caused it to seize. Generally they will seize if there isnt any oil, or its getting stupidly hot. Just drop you oil and feel it with your finger tips and see if you can feel roughness of metal filings, or after dropping the oil put it in direct sunlight and see if it glitters (from the metal). What gauges do you have in your car, aftermarket wise? Was everything normal?

you bastard.... hahaha, great pick up mate, looks tiptop

that and the main fact that they break apart in a short period of time with any more than 14psi

What happends when you disconnect the boost controller and put it back to stock? a boost controller should decrease spool up time, not increase it. afterall all it does is hold the wategate closed for longer.

I'm 99% sure that they are. Just got my clutch confirmed in the gt-four as a PUSH type and it is interchangeable with the early r32 gtr and r33 gtst. The reason i say the r33 gtr and r34 gtt's are interchangeable is if my push type clutch can be used in the gt-four, r32 gtr and gtst then i would assume the pull types are interchangeable (except the r34 gtr)

cheers mate, but with the r33 gtst's series 2 they changed to a pull didnt they?

no reason why not, both are alloy, and with a decent polish you should be able to see your face in both haha

looks good, just make sure you give in a polish everynow and then or it will go dull like before. Also polsihed alloy doesnt like to get wet, so after a drive in the rain maybe wipe them down with a clean rag, or they tend to go dull aswell. Good Stuff

bumpity, any one know?

auto n/a skylines dont have the "1" postion on the gearbox so you can only hold second. The turbo auto boxs have the "1" postion and can hold first.

woooooooooohhhhhhhhhh im on the list, IM ON THE LIST hahaha i get exicted easily

Does the wastegate come in the original box with all the fittings? Also how old is the wastegate? I've never seen a hks 50mm look like yours, they dont have hks stamped on top and they arent smooth, they have "fins" on top. cheers

Hey everyone, i've had a quick read through drivetrain and transmission forum to find some info on the above and came up empty handed so i thought i would start a new topic. Just chasing a quick run down of the different clutch types and their compatibility between the r32-r34 models. Correct me if im wrong but my understanding is the early r32 gtrs run a push type then it was changed to a pull type in the later 32 gtrs and the r33-r34 gtrs run the pull type aswell. The r33 gtst series 1 run a push type and that was changed to a pull type in the series 2 r33. And the r34 gtt runs a pull type aswell. I have a gt-four, which runs the same box as a r33 gtr but has a different bellhousing and runs a push type clutch from what i've been told. So my main question is are all pull types through out the models in skylines interchangable with other pull types and likewise are all the push type clutches interchangable throughout the models with push type. Just wondering cause if that is so, when i'm shopping around for a clutch i will just search for a r33 gtst push type since noone knows anything about gt-fours and it just confuses people. Cheers for the help

the funny thing with that is that the "dosing" would be louder than the actual bov going off haha alot of manufactures are making "stealth" aftermarket parts. Turbosmart make stealth versions of boost controllers and bov, same thing just painted black so it blends into the engine bay more..