R34GTFOUR

if he runs forged pistons in the rebuild it will be fine without oil squirters

sounds like a dead battery. You shouldnt be charging the battery with it still connected to the car. Pull it out and give it a decent deep cycle charge (ie leave it on charge for at least 24hrs). Battery chargers charge at a very low ampage so it takes a while. If its not that the battery its a main power connection thats not connected properly. Make sure your getting a good contact at the major areas like the battery terminals and the earth lines to the engine itself.

yep they are the same, even the heads a physically identical. The only difference is cams, valve springs, and pistons really. All rb25de i have seen have oil and water provisions already tapped out with a bolt plugging them which are ready for the turbo to be bolted on. The only turbo line that isnt on the n/a block is the turbo oil return which is easy to drill out and tap anyway. If you are rebuilding the engine and you can get a n/a very cheap it will be fine

miles too small, that clearance is shocking that would be simular to driving around with the wastegate stuck open...

im 21 r34 gtfour justcar Had D/L for 4yrs 1550 full comp

it will take at least 30 seconds to get oil pressure in a engine at cranking rpm that hasnt been started in a while, and at cranking speed the engine isnt doing anything near the rpm at idle so this will affect the time it takes the oil pump to get the oil moving. Just dont let it crank over for too long, cause its not the best thing for you starter motor to be under that sort of load for a long time. Give it 10-15seconds then stop, wait and try again. It will pump eventually.

are you talking about the gtr or the gtst? either way doesnt make any difference just interested cause you started on the gtr and finished on the gtst lol. Regapping to .8 is still quite big, i would maybe drop it down a bit more. A mates 200sx had his gapped at .7 and it had a "fluffy" missfire across the rev range, like it was blowing the spark out, dropped the gap down to .5 and its been sweet and he doesnt have any problems at idle at the gap either. What computer you running? im guessing you have minimum of safc to run the z32

So how much is a proengine sump adapter gonna set me back? Looks teh goods...

Thats what i used to think with my bros gtst. I couldnt believe it was the ecu, so we re-gapped the spark plug, put brand new splitfire coils in and still it was there. And it would do it even if it wasnt on full boost, as in if it was coming on to boost and you hold it at 3-4psi through out the rev range it would still splutter, miss and surge depending on how it would feel and other times it would be fine. Then he just bit the bullet and got a power fc and straight away the extra CLEAN power you get, bloody amazing, no hesitation no nothing it just pulled right through to limiter. And he only had an exhaust and fmic. While there could be just a plug gap or coil problem with the above, i would bet that the ecu is playing a big part, they just dont like anything but a completely stock engine.

stock bottom end, so he didnt change pistons, rings etc so that makes it alot cheaper, and if you can do the labour yourself you save bucks there aswell. Congrates on the conversion, keep everyone posted when you turn up the wick a little

the r33 that we installed a 023 into didnt change in the slightest with the new pump, and thats a pump that is rated to 700hp. Didnt run more rich, and nothing else was changed ie it still had the stock fpr. i know what your saying but in stockish appilications i dont see how it would make a noticeable difference to the afr

why will it run more rich? fuel pressure is controlled by the FPR so at the end of the day you can stick a bigger fuel pump and the extra flow provided if its not needed with just be sent back to the tank. As mentioned, the pump will only make a difference if the old one isnt up to the task, if the old one is capable to send the amount of fuel needed to hold the correct pressure to the fuel rail right through the rev range the wont be a difference.

was it definately a dead battery that was giving you troubles before? i only say that cause i have removed about 5 immobliser just from mates cars that have just suddenly stopped working. I mean not a hint of a problem and then all of a sudden in a car park it wont work. If its a cheapy they tend to die within a couple of years. Does the remote have a light that goes on when you press the button? If so does that go on with the new battery? If you have a new battery put in the remote and its working properly i would say the actual immobliser unit itself is buggered...

these are the type of so called "mechanics" that should be shot i wouldnt let a guy that says that look at my car, let alone touch it... Definately find another bloke, but changing a clutch isnt that hard and if your handy with the tools you can do it yourself. I would recommend exedy as a brand, anything with a stronger pressure plate, and depending on you power maybe some thing with a ceramic facing clutch plate

pfffft, cats are for losers......

^^^ +1 theres no point trying to adapt the rb20 harness to run the neo motor, just use the whole neo ecu and harness and it will be ALOT easier. if you dont have the harness and ecu and cant get access to one, i would get an aftermarket ecu with a new harness to run, it would be the way to

i just installed a bosch 023 in my bros r33, its the same pump as the 044 (external) but its the internal version so it can pump much more than the 040 and it has an open base for the pick up. It isnt that hard to install, a bit of playing around and you'll get it sitting at the same height as the stock pump.

sorry just re-read the post, thought you were talking about the gt-4

yep, if the bov wasnt there then you would have a massive hole which would create a massive vaccum leak which would make it very hard to run and idle let alone start it. Drive around with a massive leak like having a missing bov wont do any damage, it will just run like a dog and go through shit loads of fuel. What type of bov is it and how is it meant to be secured? Is it just hose clamped on?

+1 for intercooler pipe. That peeewww sound is alot like the sound a pipe popping off makes. Have a quick check over all the clamps and see what happens. Is blowing a shit load of black smoke??? Even if you popped a piston, it would still idle, but most likely blow a lot a whitish smoke.

If they said drop it off and pick it up later that means that generally means that they have a few other things on and they just want your car there ready to go when they are done finshing what ever they are doing. I personally have stuck with my car and watched it get tuned, and if your keen to stick around for a few hours just ask them and im sure they wont have a problem, they might just let you know that you will be sitting around for 3-4hrs. Another reason they might not want you there is that it is pretty surprising how quickly they can tune a car. When the car is on and off the dyno in an hour and your coffing up a grand for the tune some people might start thinking its a tad extreme (even though dynos a bloody expensive to buy). Something like a powerfc doesnt have an absolute shocking map out of factory and most of the time they can clean up the map very quickly, and with something like a safc that would be done in 10mins. Either way its up to you, if you have a day to burn why not sit and watch your car get tuned, its a good learning experience.

personally i dont beleive dyno readings, they can vary far to much from dyno to dyno and its hard to set a benchmark for what hp you should be getting unless everyone goes on the same dyno on the same day. Dynos are just a tool used for tuning and i think a 1/4 mile time with MPH is a better indicator of its power. After saying that though i just had a quick read through the old post and you mentioned it doesnt feel quick, so maybe it actually is down on the power. Going off you boost curve, that looks good, not laggy at all and the stock turbo spooling up as it should. The airflue ratio is a bit over the place and for a "tuned" ecu it should be alot better than that. In saying that it does lean out in the higher rpm to 12.5afr which should produce a good amount of power (as you know too rich and you lose hp). So going off the dyno graph, boost looks good, top rpm afr looks good so the only other factor that could be affecting your power is timing. If the guy has retarded the timing alot to aid in a safe tune this will definately take a chunk off your hp and make the car feel unresponsive and slow. Its amazing what a few degrees of timing can do for an engine. If it was me i would get the car retuned with some more timing and get the lower rpm afr fixed up, or stick in on another dyno and just do a power run and see what happens. I once got 200rwhp on 1 dyno, literally went down the street to another workshop, did a power run and got 270rwhp, nothing different so that why i dont trust dyno hp figures all that much. cheers

The r34 gt4 doesnt have the same brakes as the gt-t, the gt4 only has the n/a brakes same as the r33 na brakes. The suspension is interchangeable with the gt-t though Interior wise is the same, except the gt4 doesnt have the centre gauges as in the gt-t. The gt-4 is literally a n/a gt with awd. No need to change the gearbox, the gt-4 runs the same box as the gtr, just the bellhousing is different as it runs a push style setup clutch instead of a pull in the gtr. The easiest way to turbo it would to stick a stagea rb25det neo motor in, obiously direct bolt in and it will have the transfer case and everything ready just to slide in and you keep your stock box. The neo rb25det is rated at 206kw so with a few mods it would be alot of fun. I'm most likely going down the path of using a rb30 bottom end on my neo head in my gt-4, should be some fun

if its going in a stock n/a car i wouldnt be worried, but if its going onto a high reving big hp motor then i wouldnt go down that path...

that sounds very much like a big end knock if i was you i would get a set of big end bearings and wack em in there (wouldnt be much more than a 100bucks) as long as it hasnt been knocking for long otherwise its probably scored the crank or rod cap. or go out get standard rings and bearings and give the whole engine a freshen up, if you do the work yourself it wont set you back more than 500bucks for parts including a gasket kit and as long as the engine isnt pumping rediculous amounts of hp it should be very reliable. or if you have a rb25 in the shed i would use it, but thats just me