R34GTFOUR

It definately wouldnt of done it any good thats for sure. The only good thing is that it was only idleing so the low revs might of saved you. i had a mate that wasnt very mechanically minded and decided to do an oil change on a 180sx with a sr20det, anyway he didnt tighten up the oil filter properly and on the test drive it popped off and he probably drove it for 10mins with no oil. I came around with a new filter and oil, topped it up and it was fine and its still going strond today. Best case senario for you is that you have slightly worn the bearings which would of just taken a couple of kms of the life of the motor, nothing to worry about it. You could of pitted the bearings, which means they are damaged but havent spun yet, but since they are pitted they will be weakened and will be easier to spin on the next big rev you give it. Its hard to say, but if i was you i would just drive it around, it should be fine but the second you hear any big end knocks, pull over, turn the engine off and get it towed home an stick a set of big end shells in it. Its a relatively easy job, you can do it with out taking the engine out if you have access to a hoist and shouldnt take you longer than 6hrs.

i dont know if its any use to you, but when i had a st162 celica i had a fair bit taken off the stock flywheel and i noticed a massive difference. Not so much the stalling problems but definately the torque disappearing. But it was definately much more responsive and rev happy and on a flat road it was alot quicker, but as soon as it was uphill it was slower.

hit the nail on the head. Pressure is just a type of restriction, air FLOW is what your chasing. just think of it this way if you turn on a hose you get wet, you turn on a fire hose you get blown away. Same pressure, just more flow hence more power. dont waste your time with electric fans, i remember reading some article where a guy spent alot of money trying to set one up and he ended up getting around 5psi, but the electric blower was huge, and it was very noisy. If you want forced induction, turbo or supercharge it

My bros r33 gtst has an apexi water temp gauge and it sits on 78 degress all day long, no matter if you boot it or not. 100degrees is too hot for a rb and it is not normal. In saying that its not in the temp range to do damage, but its definately not at the proper operating range. You said that if you put your foot down that it starts to climb. This shows that there is a restriction in your cooling system, and as you start giving your car a flogging, it creates more heat and if the cooling system can't disperse this heat obviously your temp will rise. So, luckily cooling systems are relatively simple and you have covered the main areas already: - new water pump - new themostat (is this genuine? i will never still aftermarket thermostats in any of my cars, i have had too many straight out the box not working right and actually causing overheating) -new coolant -radiator cap (cooling systems rely on pressure to work correctly, if you have a dodgy radiator cap that releases pressure too low, this can also cause overheating) -headgasket (generally this is a last resort, but if your oil is milky or you coolant smells like exhaust this could be the problem, but unlikely) -hoses (its not leaking so i assume they are ok) -radiator My guess would to take the radiator out and get it cleaned like it has been said above. It is the most likely cause for overheating, especially if the coolant hasnt been changed in a long time.

i was like that the last time i used nengun, but i was shopping around for a greddy manifold and they came up about 200bucks cheaper than the nearest rival. Since its not an urgent part i dont mind waiting a 1-1.5 months, but if there was ever a part i needed straight away i definately wouldnt go through them, but then you pay a premium to get parts quicker else where

^^^ as with the above i would be looking into the afm side of things. Syptoms like it hunting at idle puts it in the afm catergory. It could be something simple like a loose plug or a big enough vacuum leak (it would have to be BIG) or it could be the afm itself. When its hunting ie. reving 2-3k rpm up and down, is it blowing alot of black smoke out the exhaust?

just to give you a rough idea, my younger bro has a r33 gts-t series 1.5, stock turbo and engine, stock ecu (no SAFC), boost at 12psi, full exhaust, FMIC and a pod, pulled a 13.3 with a 2.0 60 foot time. You should easily crack a high 13 with you mods if you launch it right and drive it hard.

i'd say that when the person put the kit on your car they might of changed the badges aswell?? my bros gts has red/white but thats only there because a day before he was meant to pick the car from the dealer someone stole his badges haha, so the dealer replaced them with turbo items...

or you could just go out and purchase a hks torque splitter which gives you a switch to turn it RWD and it also gives you a knob you can turn to change the amount of torque that is sent to the front wheels, upto a constant 50% of the power can be sent to the front. The hks torque splitter can also be used on the r33 and r34 models to increase the front torque, but you just cant put it in rwd mode like the r32 because of obvious reasons

just do it... lol

friend of my bros made 383rwhp on his skiz with simular mods. Game On

also with the idle, the motor wont learn to adjust the idle. When you advance ignition timing the idle increases, and vice versa. There is an idle adjustment screw on the throttle body to adjust the idle correctly, once you have the right timing dialed in then adjust your timing to suit.

On older cars, especially ones with dizzys, you connect the timing light onto the igntion lead that goes to the first spark plug. Our engines work off indiviual coil packs, they dont have leads. There is a special white wire in your harness near the back of your motor that you are meant to connect the timing light to, to get a correct reading. Since this is an n/a engine, ping isnt going to be a devestating to you so even if it sounds dodge trial and error can work if you do it right. With out knowing anything about your setup, so i can be held responsible, but a rough guide would be to have the cas at around 3/4 and it should be okay. My bro runs his maxed out on his rb25de but it never pings, so see what happens.

good stuff, post up what power you get after the tune aswell anyone else has got a time to post up please do, i wanted to get some general comparision going to set a general bench mark for n/a owners but the thread kinda got sidetracked lol

my bro has tein super streets in his r33, i have buddy club N+ in my r34. I have to say i prefer the buddy club, just the overall ride and feel. Also, for anyone that is interested in really slamming their cars, teins height adjustmant is NOWHERE near as good as the buddy clubs. My bro has his on the lowest setting on the teins and its only just lower enough for my likings, my wheels are in my guards and i could lower it another 5 inchs if i wanted haha

r32 gtst is the same box as the r33 gts, not very strong at all r33 gtst is the same box as the gtrs boxes (obviously different bellhousings) they are strong

nope, they were ej20's, one is running 37psi i just think that 30psi, with his mods, with a good tune on pump it would be fine but hey, if he gets it tuned and it starts to ping on ultimate 98 at 30psi with a rich tune and careful timing then i'm obviously wrong

Hey, just wondering if the same trait as the r33 gts and gts-t wiring harnesses being the same followed onto the r34 i have a r34 gt-four (hence my username lol) and i might have a gt-t power fc lined up for it but i want to see if it will actually plug in. cheers

i know of a few people running 30psi on the gt35r on pump fuel with no problems, i dont see this as a problem True boost is a restriction but in his signature "Rb26 crank and rods, Ross forged piston, o-ringed block, 1.6mm copper headgasket, rod bolt kit and head stud kit, reprofiled cams, heavy duty valve springs, head port work, n1 oil pump, hks twin plate clutch, 600x300 front mount cooler...no turbo at the moment........ " i'd say he's done enough to get the motor breathing well..

i personally would leave it. 450-500rwhp is well within the limits of the gt35r, and you will have a more responsive turbo. Dont be scared of boost, boost doesnt kill motors, bad tuning and detonation does. Running 30+psi isnt a problem on the gt35r if need be

thats what i meant, in betweem the turbo and the afm, i was just picturing it my head and if i saw the pod, afm, hose then turbo in a straight line i would say before the afm but thats just me lol. But like i said i meant in between the inlet of the turbo and afm...

If it was my car, i would be looking at the boost controller first. I doubt its an exhaust blockage, if your car was running 12psi before and you had a smash it wont just magically block it and restrict your boost to 7psi. Personally, i would disconnect the hose that goes to the wastegate actuator, put a screw in the vacuum line so it doesnt leak and take it for a VERY CAREFUL spin. The car would be running open boost and if you just floor it it will spool up to 20++psi and you will most likely smash the rear wheel off, but you can control boost by throttle position (as you would of noticed during daily driving), so take it for a spin with the gauge connected and see if you can SLOWLY accelerate and get the boost up around 10-12psi. If it spools up fine then its the boost controller...

NEVER trust the stock gauge, never ever. They are slow to react, and not accurate at all. Go get a boost gauge, even if you borrow one and just run a vacuum line from under the bonnet to the inside of the car with some one keeping a careful eye on it. Does the car feel slower? If you were running 12psi before and it is actually only running 7psi now, you will notice a big difference. Dont start adjust the boost controller with out a gauge to keep track, you could be running 20psi for all you know, especially if you dont have boost cut. Everything is connected as it should be according to the photos, as long as the wires are connected properly to the switch inside your car it should be all good. Even if the wires werent connected properly, you would still have a low boost adjustment since this is a dualstage.

You stock intake will have two hoses going into it, one is for the return of the stock bov and since you aren't running it you wont need that. The other is for the crankcase ventilation and thats the hoses that are running over your rocker cover. You cant block this ventilation off, you need it otherwise you'll drive down the street and your dipstick will pop out and make a nice mess. You have a couple of options: 1. Modify your new inlet to be able to take the ventilation hose (and this has to be done BEFORE the afm) 2. Get a catch can and run the ventilation hose to that instead, but thats just another shiney can that will stand out in your engine bay and if you get pulled over will get you defected by a retard cop that doesnt know the difference between a bov and pod... I would just do option 1, but what ever you do dont block that hose off and dont just put one of those "monza" filters on it, the ventilation hose can carry a bit of oil especially when your on full boost and the last thing you want is oil being sprayed in your engine bay, right near a nice hot exhaust manifold.

were did 700 bucks come from? 300 will get you a gfb hybrid bov my bro runs that same bov seems to be a good mix