R34GTFOUR

Does it look like the cas has been advanced? Loosen the 3 bolts that hold it to the timing belt cover and turn it anticlock wise, this will retard the timing, then tighten the bolts back up and take it for a drive, it might feel slightly slower, but thats if you notice any difference at all. If the stops the pinging then maybe the timing has been advanced too much, and just adjust the timing so its advanced as far as possible before it starts to ping.

yeah i hope for you its only rings, but regardless i would be giving it a full rebuild while it was out, especially now you know that it had bugger all oil in it. I dont know how hard it would be for you but try and take the intake pipe off that goes to the turbo and see how much oil is in there, your rocker cover ventilation goes to your intake pipe so if there is excessive piston blowby from a busted piston you would expect oil to be filling up in your intake. If you have an oil catch can, you probably would see that its filling up aswell

why would the cam timing be out? have you had a new timing belt put on? i doubt its cam timing That dyno sheet shows a massive loss in power, whats it like to drive on the street before and after the tune? does it feel like its hesitating? Your max hp is pretty much spot on for the mods, so i wouldnt really expect you to gain much more power, but that mid range definately needs to be fixed up, and you will notice a big difference on the street once that is done. Did you have a dyno reading before the tune? I cant believe someone would send that out the door and say its "tuned"

ouch that doesnt sounds good, but seriosuly something like oil should be checked (the level) atleast once a week. Was there no oil whats so ever or it just didnt register on the dip stick. Where you still getting oil pressure? Unless you have a massive oil leak (and if you lost 3.5L in a drive home just by it dropping oil would be EVERYWHERE), its burning or you have massive piston blowby and it filling up your cooler aswell. Is it blowing a shit load of smoke? Any Knocking noises? I'd say you have either melted/chipped a piston or broken a ring which case your more than likely need new pistons let alone just rings. You probably have damaged your bore aswell and are most likely up for a rebore or hone at the very least. So pretty much its full rebuild time, ie new pistons, rings, big end and main bearings etc etc (and if you have been driving around with no oil you might have damaged the crank aswell), or get a 2nd rb and drop it in and hope for the best.

To put simply oil is thicker when its cold, and as it warms up it becomes thinner. Thinner fluid = less resistence = less pressure. It is completely normal and everycar will do it. Abit off topic but, why did you check your coolant if you were worried about oil pressure???

the difference in ambient air temperature with the stock setup and your pod is fine and wont damage you engine at all. Abosulte worst case (and this is if you drive around with 91ron unleaded, in which case you should be shot lol) on a 40 odd degree day your ecu might retard some timing from your engine to reduce knocking(ping), which it does to protect your motor anyways. All is safe

what gauge are you using to determine that your at 10psi? its not uncommon for gauges to be out 1-2 psi. I have an autometer gauge and it has a 1psi difference to my handcontroller's reading. So using that same logic your boost reading that causes your trouble turns from 10.5psi to 11.5psi which is close to hitting boost cut. That 12psi cut is approx, my bros skyline can run 1bar all day with out hitting cut and he has everything still connected but then you hear people having trouble over 10psi. The easiest way to find out if its hitting cut is by plugging the vaccum hose that goes to the map sensor the measures boost (its the same sensor that your interior boost gauge works off, so when you disconnect it your interior gauge wont work), then wind the boost up to 12psi and see what happens. If it runs fine, all that was happening before was a plain and simple boost cut, but if it still misses then i would look at spark plug gap, coils, then maybe even start measuring fuel pressure.

What type of intercooler kit did you fit?? Is it a $200 ebay kit or did you spend 600-700 on a hybrid item? Regardless if the car is bone stock or if its pumping 400hp, an intercooler upgrade WILL make a postive difference, as long it is an upgrade. Some of those ebay kits are really typical china crap and can have more of a pressure drop than the stock cooler and wont flow as they should, but if you got something like a hybrid you should see a gain. I just finished fitting two coolers on the weekend, one on a mates 2JZ supra and the other on a 1JZ soarer and both made noticable gains after taking it for a drive. I would check simple things like all the fittings are tight and there are no leaks, and although it might sounds silly like mentioned above, double check nothing has clogged the inlet of the cooler (like a rag)...

haha i think you mean the 4AGE which is toyotas 1.6L twin cam motor, but they also came out with the 4AGZE, same 1.6L design but with a supercharger on the side. The good old 4A is a rev happy motor, most people know of it cause thats what is in the magical AE86

the tt supras jza80s run a single wastegate for both turbos, and with a simple exhasut made up it often makes them overboost cause the wastegate can't keep up with the two turbos. With an aftermarket system, it wouldnt make any difference with twin or single set up, as long as the size was right to handle the flow of the motor and turbo

generally external gates offer greater flow and thus you get better boost control. Internal gates can either be overwhelmed and be forced open at high boost levels which would result in a lower boost reading then desired or when at high revs and high boost they may not be able to flow enough (ie too small) and this would create boost creep and you would have undesired overboost. Thats why generally over 500hp, you dont really see many internal gates

Hi, like everyone has said bloody great thread, im only upto page 60 or so but give me a week and i'll be up to date I've decided to jump to the last couple pages to see if anyone has discussed using the r34 neo head so i've just go a quick couple of questions. I've read the rb30 DOHC guide and it says that the water/oil galleries are different in the r34 head and the head has less cc's at only 50cc. So... 1. Has anyone done a rb30 neo conversion? 2. How different are the galleries? What needs to be done compared to the r33 head? 3. What is the compression ratio with the r34 head like? I have a r34 gt-four (you would of never of guessed with my user name haha) and this is looking very attractive, i also realise that an adapter needs to be bought to fit my sump onto the rb30, but its been done before with the r32 & 33 gts-4's so it shouldnt be to hard thanks

yeah thats what i thought???

it would have to, otherwise your car would run like a dog even though the q45 and z32 may be the same size (i didnt know that before), the q45 as far as i know can read more air flow so it doesnt max out as quickly as the z32.

Some one flow test these thing DOOOO ITTTT!!!! I'm really keen to see the results, i'm planning to use one on my rb when i turbo it, mainly for the piping route. If this is just a direct mould of the real greddy item with some rough edges, with a bit of cleaning up theres no reason why it shouldnt be just as good as the "real thing". If the greddy manifold has such a good rep without the velocity stacks, then i cant see a reason why a copy with a bit of time spent on it cant flow just as evenly.

bunch of hippies i reckon haha From my experience i've noticed that: 1. it will make a difference to performance, and if you have a stock 10-15 year old cat in your car that is most likely cloged and melted together then you will gain a nice amount of power. 2. Your car will be slightly louder but nothing crazy, no where near the extent of taking out one muffler. 3. I have seen plenty of cars with no cats what so ever pass the emitions test with flying colours. For example, my celica had a 3inch hiflow cat, i decided to put in a 3inch decat (looks kinda like a cat but its hollow), notice a very small difference but this would be because i already had a nice flowing cat. Anyway i had to get my plates changed from QLD to WA and i forgot that i had left the decat on it. Passed visual inspections cause the guy was a retard and it also passed the emissions test. This was a car that i hadnt tuned yet and was running the very rich base map tune, and the exhaust consisted of straight pipe and onehks cannon. No dramas...

if he did survive he would of got some nice burns you'd think. That exhaust would be nice n hot...

depending on what dollars you have to spend you have a few options: To do it properly you should really get a new bumper and change the intercooler set-up so you dont have to cut into the bar but if you dont want to spend bulk coin and.... if it was me i would either try and find an engineer that will sign off on it or (and this is most likely what i would do) go to a wrecker, offer them a carton of piss to borrow one of their stock front bars and install it. Its not hard to take the bumper off and i would take the intercooler out and out a straight piece of pipe in its place so you can still drive it. Sounds dodge but as long as you dont boot the crap out of the car it will be ok. Take it to the pits, get it passed and change everthing back after and then your done, until next time...

while a blocked cat will reduce hp its not going to make it idle at 400-500rpm. Does it sound like a wrx when driving? Have you had a compression test done? How many km's has the motor done? Any engine lights on? What does it drive like? First thing i would give it a compression test and see what the numbers are, the mechanic should be able to do it in 10mins if he knows what he is doing. I hope its just something simple like a spark plug dead, but it could be a broken piston...

so true although i dont mind the hybrid kits, half the price and will do the job for someone that isnt chasing over 500rwhp

Price and Potential. Pick up a manual R34 Gt-four which has the same gearbox as a r33 gtr for cheap since people automatically see n/a as slow and nothing can be done to fix this. Wack a neo 25det in it and i'll have a 34,manual, turbo, AWD, coupe for hardly any real big dollars spent

this really suprises me a tuner would say this, and its almost scary that he works on cars. A FPR is exactly that, it controls the pressure of fuel in the fuel rail. Its important to understand how it works. The fuel pump pumps the fuel it hits the fuel rail and regulator, the regulator controls how much fuel pressure is going through it. Even at stock levels the stock pump is pumping more fuel than the engine needs so the FPR regulates how much fuel is needed for the motor and the extra is returned to the fuel tank. So even when you get a higher capacity pump, that extra flow doesnt go and "flood the engine", it just gets returned to the tank. When you bump the boost up, you go through more fuel to counter the increase in air, so with a bigger pump you can meet these needs, but you still wont be using the full flow of what the pump produces so once again the regulator maintains the pressure of fuel required and any extra will be returned to the tank. A higher flowing pump wont flood the engine as long as your FPR is working, hes talking bs.

what you just mentioned has absolutely nothing to do with blocking off the recirculating valve, like said before it WILL great more lag which will make it slower than a stock gts-t but like you said your carefactor is 0 for the life of the turbo so its not worth mentioning. I wouldnt of thought that you would intentionally make you car slower though...

also how did he clean your filter? is it a k&n filter that he has re-oiled? The oil used on those filters can affect our afms..

so did he actually check your timing belt? Cause if he says he checked your timing belt and didnt touch the cas hes talking bs. Pop your hood and have a quick look at the cas, it has three bolts going through it. If you can see marks where the bolts used to be before then you know that it hasnt been set back in its original postion and if hes retarded the timing abit you will notice a difference. Ask him to put a timing light on your car and see what it is set at, if he knows what he is doing it will take less than a minute to do. In saying that, people get paranoid when they hand their car to other people and start "noticing" things that they did see before haha