R34GTFOUR

hahha soon it will happen lol. I ran 17psi on my ceramic turbo, lasted 12months then one day i took off from a set of lights and then i heard a ching ching ching sound, and then no more boost more me hahha. Its fun taking out our cat to remove all the peices of the ceramic turbine... :laughing-smiley-014:

im not a fan of the hondas, but i would still get the s2000 over the gt any day of the week. Like said above, its faster, more nimble and if you are on your p's you will be able to sell it for more when you get off your p's and get a gtt easier

cars like ours fitted with power steering works off a pump. What your thinking of is the steeringlock, and thats just locks the steering wheel when theres no keys in the ignition. Hasnt anyone driven a car being towed before??? You still have steering, you still have brakes, they just become slightly harder to use. they arent going to magically disappear when the motor shuts down.. If you did a second gear pull at wot to say 6500rpm and put the clutch in and let it return to idle will it stall? If it does the electric idle motor (forgot the actual name of it) might be failing, which is pretty common in nissans, especially sr20's. Its job is to maintain a smooth idle drop so it doesnt fall too fast and stall the motor, if it isnt working properly you'll get a problem simular to what you are describing

did a quick search and 2in / 6 out seems to be the setting to get the z32 working. Give that a go and see what happens

nah the z32 can be used with a safc2 to correct it. I've never used a safc2 to run a z32 so unfortunately i wont be much help. I'm sure theres a few guys on here that will know though

that flutter noise is compressor surge and there isnt any agruement about it, it is not a good thing. Thats why big car companies like nissan and toyota that have some sort of reliablity to live by install a recirculating bov to help this, if it wasnt needed they wouldnt bother spending money on it, simple. Running no bov isnt going to destroy the turbo in a matter months, so dont think just because it hasnt gone bang in 3 months of driving that its ok. Besides the fact that it will shorten the life of the turbo, that "cool" sound is actually making you car slower since you turbo has too spool harder after each gear change just to get to wastegate pressure. Running no bov with higher than stock boost imo is just silly. Anywho, back to the main question, a aftermarket fmic like hybrid will make nice even gains throughout the rev range even at stock boost, just dont expect a massive jump in power. Raising the boost with the stock exhaust wont be a problem, but your just not getting as much as you could out of the car. You will notice more of a power increase with an exhaust than a fmic at stock levels.

theres a difference between someone that doesnt know alot about cars and asking a simple questions to someone whos strong point obviously doesnt include engines/turbos and trying to answer a question with no knowledge. I'm all for people asking simple questions, but theres no point someone replying to a question if they dont know the basics, thats how stupidity is spread...

some guy (cant be bothered looking it up lol) did a experiment not to long ago with aftermarket filters and stock paper one and the results were pretty suprising. On average the aftermarket oil based filters like k&n didnt make much of a difference over a stock paper filter and after a bit of driving the k&n was actually worse in flow since the oil clogs the filter compared to the stock. So imo if your not after 500rwhp just replace the stock paper filter every couple of months and save you money. Or go and get a trust non oil type..

no offence mate but what the hell are you on?? Facing the front of the car the turbo is on the right hand side of the engine and ceramic bearings?? Show me how to look that hard that i will see ceramic bearings you've totally lost me...

BWAHAHAHA i've said this before and i'll say it again, anyone that doesnt know the BASICS about how/what a turbo does/is and the same for a motor go to www.howstuffworks.com and look it up. "Theres no such thing a stupid question, just stupid people"

when did it stop working? have you had any wiring work done on the car? Its more than likely just a fuse so check your fuses and see if any are blown. The cigarette power source is a very basic design so that will make it easy to figure out whats wrong. Its either the plug has come off, or the power isnt getting to the plug (blown fuse). If a mechanic charges you more than 20 bucks i'd slap him in the face...

You can get a unsecured personal loan from pretty much any bank and as long as you can repay it and havent got a bad credit history they'll lend 30k with out any problems at all. The only problem with unsecured loans is that the finance institution doesnt use your car as security so the interest rates are slightly higher. Normally theres a 2-3% difference p.a. between a secured and unsecured. In a loan term of 3yrs thats not going to make that much of a difference maybe an extra 10-15 bucks a week, if that. You are going to find it extremely tough to find a place to lend you money and use an import as security, none of the big banks will do it, and the smaller places that may generally have hidden fees which makes up for it. Personally, i would shop around the big banks, and some of the credit unions and get an unsecured variable loan, since the interest rate wont changed that much ovver the next 3yrs to hurt you and by going variable rate you can generally repay as much as you want. Be careful when they say you can make extra repayments on a fixed, there generally is a limit of how much you can repay on top of you standard repayment. Shop around is the best idea

with a +40 offset it wont stick out, if anything it will be a tad too far in. The stock offset is around 38 from memory on the 33?? I know my 34 has +40 stock offset. An offset of around +30 to +35 would make the rims pretty much inline with the guards, which makes it look the best imho

"Panasport 17x10 17x12 G7 C5C2 Rims" 17 by 12's for the rear??? thats insane

For the exhaust side of things its defenately got a leak somewhere and like someonestolecc said, get someone to stuff a rag in the tip of the exhaust and let the car idle and you should hear where the leak is coming from. To get to the rear pastral (spl?) shelf to take out the stock speakers you do the following steps: 1. The bottom of the seat is held down by two 12mm bolts, one either side, undo them and then lift the front of the seat up and it will slide out. 2. Once that is removed you will see that the remaining back of the seat is held in by two bolts near the bottom. Undo those then you will need to left the seat directly upsince it is held on a hook and it will left off. 3. The pastral shelf is just held in by clips, so undo the front ones that are visable and the others arent visable but when you left up they just come undone. If you have child restraint anchors on the back shelf you will need to undo those before you can take the shelf off. *note, if the car looks like it has never been apart before (which is very rare anyway), things are going to be slightly harder to take off because all the clips and stuff will be tighter, but just ease it off and nothing will break.

whats the correct offset to make it fit properly of a r34 ie. not sticking out the guards?? is +40 alright?

mate had a old bunky shortbase pajero that he picked up for 1k. It was meant to be a bunky but, a nice bunky if you know what i mean. Anyway the old petrol motor was kinda noisy, and the tank was empty so he thought he would do the right thing and fill it up... with diesel! He came and picked me up and the thing was pinging its nuts off, so what do we do?? take it bushbashing to really load that poor motor up and clear out that yucky diesel, the pistons would of been glowing red. Not suprising though it detonated a piston in 10mins and we drove home on 3 cylinders. We noticed a massive vibration on the ride home though, we somehow dented the tailshaft while we were bashing around and put it out of balance. Instead of pulling over we drove straight through the shakes and shudders until it cut loose and snapped off, we ended parking up next to a traffic light in the middle of the intersection. It was getting late so left it till the next day when we came backto find it broken into and the shitty sony headdeck was stolen and the god old tornado sub had gone walk abouts. In total dismay, we towed it back with my bros skyline and tow rope lol, went to the wrecker and bolted up another tailshaft and away we went again. 3 cylinders = gutless as hell but to its credit it did do wicked key bangers, theres nothing like scaring the shit out of somebody walking a dog...

even with a bigger manifold, intercooler, throttle body etc, at idle it shouldnt be sucking anymore air than before because that is all governed by the throttle body's butterfly. If the clearance was wrong on the throttle body and it was sucking too much air, then you would just have a high idle and we know rpm doesnt create boost, but load. It could idle at 4000rpm, but with no load, it wont boost. Once you put everything back together, check the timing, then check it again, and have it set around 15degrees and get another boost gauge and see what happens. It has to be a timing issue, or its just the gauge. An easy way to check if its running boost if you cant get another gauge, just disconnect a vacuum line (it has to be vacuum) and see if its sucking air. If it is then you have vacuum and its not running boost. If its running boost you will hear it, does it sound like it spooling?? edit: i just watched the video, i thought you were talking about hitting boost at idle, like hitting boost while it just sits there at 650rpm. Thats what happens when you skim over the post lol. Hitting boost is completle normal when you free-rev like i explained above, the amount of boost your hitting seems abit high, and it seemed like it was a bit slow, my bet is timing...

depends on what set-up you have. If its a stock motor/turbo, idleing at the stock 650rpm with the timing set at 20degrees btdc i dont believe there is anyway you are making 12psi at idle, you will definately be hitting some sort of boost while free-reving but even then you shouldnt be hitting full boost. Like i said before, people can choose an antilag system where the timing is not affected, but that requires air injection which is extremely hard on the turbo. Even the other method by retarding the timing to achieve boost at idle is still very hard on the turbo, and will shorten the life massively. Most turbo motors should be able to hit some sort of boost by free-reving the motor in neutral, but that only because by flattening the accelerator till high revs or limiter is putting the motor under load, try do that only half throttle to limiter and see what boost your getting, you wont get any because no load.. turbos cant just make boost, they need certain factors to be present to do it

what does a safc (super air flow convertor) do? its a tuning tool which gives you a way to trick the stock ecu into how much air is entering the motor, which in turn alters the amount of fuel put in the motor. It will fit on most cars and they are pretty popular on nissans but you have to be careful on some other models. On the celica gt4s these things make the motor goes bang, because most of the time you trick the computer into think there is less air so it gives less fuel, but in the toyotas the computer thinks that less air = less load so it raises the timing and things go bang.

nah you still pay, they give you a chance to put it up again, but after that you pay the full amount. Ebay can be effective, but you still need to follow the normal basic rules of selling. Demand, is it a popular part that is going to create interst? if not dont waste your time, but car performance parts generally create alot on interest. Price, even though they are brand new, dont set the price high cause no one is going to pay rrp, and generally it has to be quite a bit cheaper than rrp because people take the postage cost into consideration, which most of the time is 20 bucks in itself. Try sticking them up on the forum first, but all in all, ebay isnt a bad tool

have you tried to change your cas over with another one just to try and take it out of the equation? It could be a dodgy cas giving it wrong timing. What about the boost gauge, have you tried to use one of your mates? It could just be a dodgy gauge aswell?? I havent seen the footage, but at idle does the turbo actually sould like its spooling, or is it quite? Im in the middle of putting a n/a sr20 with a bolted on turbo in a mates s14, and we had the timing way too retarded and it was hitting boost at idle, but you could hear the turbo spooling, and when you turned it off, the turbo fluttered like as if you were driving and backed off on the accelerator. Does the turbo compressor surge or "flutter" when you turn the motor off. Turbos need load to get boost, or an antilag system. When you flatten the accelerator in neurtal, your creating some load on the motor, not as much as normal driving, but still theres enough load to create some boost. Theres no way of getting boost at idle without antilag, for the simple reason that there isnt enough load. Theres two common antilag systems. The first is aggressive air injection, and the second works off igntion timing. So if anybody is definately getting boost at idle, and you will be able to hear the turbo spool, i would say its timing related.

there was a auto sedan turbo going for 16k in wa not too long ago, but no one really wants a auto sedan car so that reflects its price. r34s that go for less than 18k are either cops or are auto or sedan or both. Coupe and manual make the car hold value, nobody really like auto or sedans in the market, so even n/a i would expect to pay 18k+ for a decent r34 coupe manual. especially if it has rims etc. 22 is probably over priced abit, but theres no way you will get a car simular to what you are looking at for less than 18k, unless its a real quick sale

finally got it running, so no damage was done. Either they are a free runner or it just didnt skip enough teeth to do damage. Ignition timing was waaay to retard though, nothing like hitting boost at idle lol

i took the head off and re-set the cam timing using the silver links like you are meant to and just to be safe i rotated the motor a few times by hand just to make sure and nothing hit. But then we went to start the motor it wouldnt come to life then i re-checked the cam timing and it was out by 5 teeth . I didnt hear anything collide and i've taken everything off to start again, but i just want to be sure..