R34GTFOUR

cheers, but does anybody know for sure?

1/4 is normal for an warm engine at idle, and it shouldnt increase with boost, but rpm. Oil pressure is rpm related, if you rev it up in neutral you should get the same reading as if your driving on the road.

Hey, just a quick question, are sr20det's a free runner. If the timing chain snaps, will the pistons and valves smash together? I know the rb25 isnt a free runner but i wasnt sure about the sr. Cheers

its almost like that south park episode where eric buys a theme park and doesnt let anybody in, but that only makes people want to go in even more. Same principle, you cant have this ecu, so people go crazy

hahaha good old stop watch. Have a couple more go's and try to stall it up abit and that number will drop slightly. Any car will be quicker at night time cause of the colder air, but for a turbo car it makes a much more noticable difference, especially if you get a FMIC

so in compliance do they just change the globes or did they change the whole set up? i have xenon, but its been converted back to halogen, want needs to be dont to get it back to the factory xenon? bloody compliance, why cant they just leave stuff alone... cheers

from what i have heard, its not possible on the r33/r34's, HKS make a torque splitter but even will that apparantely it still distributes a tiny bit of the power to the front. I wanna find a way around it for mine

physics explains everything lol. The whole idea between cold air in takes and sheilds is to deliver colder air to the engine right? Colder air has more densly compacted molecules (woooh physics wooh) which in turn creates a bigger bang when it comes to combustion and bigger bang means more power. This is why at night times you will noitce a difference in performance on any car (much more noticeable on a turbo car), air is colder and denser. You will find most stock airboxes have factory piping which allows the air to be drawn from the front of the car where it is cooler, they do this because colder air is better, only problem is most of the time the piping is small and restrictive. Putting a pod filter with no shield or cold air set-up wont blow up or damage your motor. No engine that is expected to last will have the tuning so fine where a slight increase in air temp will make it dentonate. Factory cars have to be able to handle air temps from icy cold environments to stinking hot 40+ degree days, so the car will be able to handle the change in air temps with no problems. If your that keen to make that extra 1-2 hp then make up a cold air intake, but its not essential because when you think about it, at 60kmhr alot of air is being rushed into you engine bay so the pod will still be feed by air from outside, just not as effective as a cold air setup. A pod on stock car isnt going to make much of a difference to performance, but everyone likes the sounds of a nice induction, but like everyone said secure it so it doesnt become cop bait.

what fuel pump do you have? if its stock how many km on the car? whens the last time the fuel filter was changed?

you had an auto, swap it to manual then swapped it back to auto?? the only way i can see you have a better driving car with the auto is if you left the stock auto diff in there when you did the conversion, that would give you tall as diff ratios making the car feel less responsive and sluggish, but anyway back to this guy. How did you time the 8.5s? stop watch? did you do it or a mate? if it was just a stop watch recording dont be surprised if you have over a second difference because of reaction times to hit start/stop. How did you launch? Did to stall it up a bit? Did you manually hold 1st, and second gear to let it rev out? little things like this can make all the difference. But like i said before, a stock 33 isnt a super quick car, do a few BPU and they become more fun.

yeah but on that driveway it wouldnt make that much of a difference, if he was on the fuel light for 100km then it started to it then maybe i could be wrong but i dont think the fuel pump is at the front on the r34s, i only say this because i have a really steep downward sloping driveway and once i was really low on fuel and i couldnt get it started on the slope, i had to roll down to the bottom where it was flat and then it came to life.

autos are poo, they suck the power outta motors. If your r33 is stock, ie stock boost, exhaust etc, i wouldnt expect it to be any quicker that what you stated. Stick a exhaust on it and pump and bit more boost into it and you will be happy, but honestly with the stock auto it will be more of a cruiser that a drag machine

are the nismo twin plates noisy at all? just wondering because a mate of mine has a F6 with a $4000 twin plate from over east which is meant to handle 1000rwhp but at idle its pretty damn noisy. His clutch is very hardcore, but i wouldnt want a clutch in daily driver that was making rattles and what not.

does it only do it on your driveway or have you ever seen it do it on a flat road? Have you mucked around with the timing at all? Whens the last time you checked your plugs? Dirty plugs or plugs that have been gapped too close can cause what you are mentioning but the driveway shouldnt really effect that. My bros r33 does a simular thing at idle but it will do it on a flat surface, but i think that has something to do with the timing he has smashed into it.

bump, re-regoed for 6months...

Hey, the car was for sale before but then i took it down because i needed it as my daily, but now i have a new car as my daily driver and the celica is just collecting dust in the garage.... I have a book full with reciepts for this car, and thats pretty much just half the stuff its had done to it, in excess of $20,000 has been poured into my first baby. For sale: 1989 Toyota Celica SX Condition: Excellent, all parts (except then motor itself) are LESS than 20,000km with the majority less than 8000km. Price and price conditions: 12,500ono Extra Info (ie mods/history etc etc) Exterior: -Full respray Toyota Super Red 2 -17inch Kspeed Siefers rapped in 225/40 Kumo Esta rubber -Tint-a-car Darkest legal tint -removial of aeiral and genuine gt forrester scoop Suspension: -new mcpherson stuts -new pedders sports ryder low springs -new bushes all round Engine/gearbox: -2nd gen 3SGTE 2.0L twin cam (110,000km) -ct20b turbo from st205 celica, with full rebuild, new steel exhaust wheel and hiflowed with garret 400hp compressor wheel (less than 100km old, not 100,000km) -bosch 040 fuel pump -stock 440cc injectors -FMIC 600x330x100mm with custom piping -s/s tubular manifold -s/s 3inch dump w/ 3inch mandral bent exhaust, hi flow 3inch cat and genuine hks cannon -greddy style oil catch can (doesnt breath, new intake didnt provide the stock breather) -straight intake with pod -microtech lt8s ecu w/ handcontroller -turbomart dual stage boost controller -blitz bov -sv53 gearbox -h/d clutch Interior: -Full retrim in charcoal grey (seats, dash, new floors, roof lining, door inserts i mean everything...) -momo race steering wheel -Autometer boost, oil and tacho gauges -greddy turbo timer -full electic mirrors, windows and sunroof -pioneer headdeck (was worth 1400) -2X fusion amps -2X alpine 12inch type R subs -fusion 6.5inch fronts -pioneer 5way 6X9 -battery relocated -auidogod equalisers -autowatch blue series alarm system with motion sensors and remote central locking Maintance: -new timing belt -new water pump -new dizzy seals, rocker cover seals, turbo oil/feed return seals, new oil cooler seals, new rear main seals, exhaust manifold/turbo gaskets -new s/s braided lines to turbo -rebuilt power steering pump -new oils (engine w/ fileter, gearbox, clutch and brake bled) -new slave and master clutch cylinders -many more... Performance: -tuned by tim slako at west racing -pulled 267fwhp with old turbo set-up, 300fwhp should be expected with new turbo -13.02 @180km/hr w/ old turbo (2.2 60 foot time), i wont be taking it down again but it should be a easy 12s car now, if driven right -this car really surprises alot of people on the road Just a quick note, alot of time and money has been spent on this car and i hope it finds a nice new home but just as an example, little things like brand new red seat belts were installed (250bucks worth!) which most people cant be bother spending money for, it is things like this that i did just to make the car what it is. Contact Details: pm here or ring/msg me on 0417948746 Location: Dianella, Perth WA Delivery & Conditions of Delivery:Bring the cash and drive away with no more to pay...

You wont notice a power difference with a new fuel pump if your stock. Its just something you'll need when you start increasing power, if your going to raise the boost and tune it you'll need more fuel which normally first stage is the pump itself. Its just a good safety measure to have. +1 on fuel pump or strut brace depending on your mods...

sold

exactly right. People put aftermarket front bars on and most of the time they have to change the indictors, which means different globes. The different watts in globes give different resistances and the resistances is the thing that helps determine how quickly the bulb flashes. Check what watt globe the car had in it before and go get a globe that will fit you new indicators that has the exact same wattage, problem solved.

what pump did they put in it? A genuine nissan item or aftermarket? Was the belt changed? How much tension is on the belt? Two thing i would do, first just check that there is enough tension of the belt (obviously when the car is off), and if it feel fine, start it up and spray some wd-40 in the general area and see if it helps. If it stops making the noise after you sprayed it i would say that you need a new belt If not it may be the pump itself, a new pump should be quite.

I have a 2 door, manual r34 gt-four (had it about 2months now) and not many people really know the facts about their set-up, and this is only what i have found after reading up but mostly just driving the car. 1. Yes it uses the same atessa system as the gtr (which is only the computer side of things) 2. No its not a gtr gearbox, its definately not the r34 gtr box cause thats 6 spd, and the gt-four just doesnt "feel" strong like a gtr box, i would say its more along the lines internally of a rb25de box (same as a rb20det) or maybe a rb25det with the obvious casing changes to attach a transfer box. 3. No you cannot pull a fuse and turn it into rwd, that ONLY works for the r32's. Like previously said the car will go into a limp mode. Driving around like this will damage the front diffs clutches. Apparently you can disconnect the front shafts and it will go to rwd but the amont of effort to do it, just by a gtst. 4. HKS torque splitters can be fitted to adjust how much power is distributed to the front and rear. There is NO way to turn all the power to the rear, even with maximum power set to the rear, there will still be about 5% of the power still being sent to the front diff, which means no sitting on the brakes doing a big trev skid. Although, with about 95% of the power going to the rear, that should be enough to step out around corners. 5. At the stock power level, the car just feels safe to drive in the dry around any corner. I can boot first gear take a 90 degree bend while smashing second and the ass end will attempt to come out but then the front just grips and puts you straight ahead, the car will understeer before it oversteers into a corner. The wet is another story, since it is mainly rwd it will go VERY sideways if pushed but its a very easily controlled sideways since you can always feel the front helping you stay in control. So pretty much what i'm saying is if you want to go "drifting" like intial D in this car wait till its wet, go to somewhere quite, and have all the fun then, otherwise get a gtst. 6. The rb26 can bolt straight up and id say that once that was done, even in the dry the awd system will be smoking all fours around corners. A more budjet friendly solution is to get a stegea neo rb25det, change the front diff over with the stock gtfour one and your have a 206kw motor in your car cheap. Another good reason to go the stegea motor is that you stock gtfour harness will bolt up and the r34 ecu is flashable so you can get it retuned without spending dollars on a new ecu or piggy back. Im planning to put a stagea motor in my car, and the more i learn about the gt-four i will post up cause its a bit of a mystery...

So your using a pfc for a neo rb25det? The stock map should be fine to drive to a tuning workshop to get things done properly. Black smoke wont hurt anything its just gonna go through a shit load of fuel, and like i said the stock map wont be that bad. Honestly i wouldnt muck around any settings without a dyno especially if your taking fuel out of the equation, you cant just go take fuel out of the maps until theres no black smoke, you might lean it out too much and say goodbye to the motor. Rich = safe, and if your really worried (you shouldnt be) just get it towed to a dyno and tune it. p.s nice conversion

Hey was cleaning out some crap and came across this, when i first tried to get broadband the company stuffed us around so much i just switch to telstra and they gave me a new modem, then a week later the original provider finally sent the modem in the mail... idiots. Anyway its never been used and all you need to do is put your providers details on it and away you go. Comes in the original box with all hardware, wires/cables and software. They still sell the exact thing at dicksmiths for a 100 bucks. Heres some info straight from the website: Share a Broadband connection between the USB and Ethernet ports of 2 computers. Features: Connect two computers through USB and Ethernet port to share a high-speed Internet connection Uses ADSL (Asymmetric Digital Subscriber Line) technology Up to 150 times faster than a 56K analog modem over a standard phone line Connect to an Ethernet port regardless of the operating system you are using Connect to a USB port to allow easy installation to a USB equipped computer running 98SE, Me, 2K, XP, or Mac OS 9 and OS X. Price: $50 :PBJ: Contact: Pm here or msg me on 0417948746, i live in perth dianella (NOR) would prefer a pick up or i can post it out, upto the buyer i suppose...

oil pressure is rpm related not load related so there should be no difference in free reving and driving. If it reads 60psi at 3000rpm while in neutral it should read that exact same 60psi while driving at 3000rpm. Its either a oil delivery issue or the crank and rods are machined correctly. Since it spun the bearings at idle i would lean more towards a machining issue. Get the crankshaft and rods/caps professionally inspected.

The stock Xr6T motor is known to throw rods out when pumping more power than there should be but the motor from the FPV F6 is another story. The internals are different to the normal xr6t's and can handle a shit load more power. A mate of mine has had his f6 at 560 rwhp on the dyno, thats a completely stock bottom end, head etc. The turbo is still the stock item but high flowed and just a nizpro kit. The engine is still going strong as is gearbox and diff, clutch had to be replaced though. People are making over 1000hp on these motors without throwing rods out the side, its just the stock xr6t motors that cant hold it together.