R34GTFOUR

If you've got the spare cash, GTRS hands down. Great spool up time and can make your hp goal without sweating.

nicely played haha

110psi? The motor sounds like its very tired and ready for a rebuild. My guess is that the rings (both oil and compression) are buggered. If the rings aren't sealing its going to have excessive piston blow-by which will result in your cam cover breather throwing oil into your intake. If you took out your intercooler you'll probably find that its got a lot of oil in it aswell. Cheap bandaid? A well setup catchcan To fix, it needs a freshen up rebuild. Personally i would keep driving it until it said no more

meh, I'd just plug the G4 in and bounce it off the limiter, DONE.... Congrats on the build, 350rwkw's will be intereting enough in a 2wd platform let alone 450 haha. Its there for fun so enjoy it

No

100% sure, all gts-t gts series 1 or 2 are all interchangable.

Does the car run? Or dont any of the injectors pulse? Its pretty common for injectors to "stick" if they have been sitting around for a while. My brother has some 850cc denso's and the car was rough, sounded like only 5 cylinders were firing. Got a screw driver and gave the injectors a gentle tap and it was fixed. Its quite funny to see, and it seems dodgy, but thats all they need. Or you could be right, that little ridge might been its a totally difference injector, but i doubt sard would make an injector that shared the same colour and shape and have different impedance. Have a scan through all the sard injectors and see if there are anyother top feed purple injectors.

Yeah mine has a little ridge on the bottom, everything else looks spot on. I doubt that ridge will make any difference, as long its got the correct rail/o-rings everything should be a-ok.

I bought a set of the Bride Gias "copies" for my r34, the only thing that gave it away was the fact that the backing wasn't carbon fiber or kevlar. Maybe i got a good one, but all the stiching is spot on, no holes or anything along the lines of that like the above pics. No funny logos, everything lined up. I bought genuine bride low rails and they bolted straight up. The only thing that i will mention like URAS said, the recline mech isn't the smoothest, but once its set I'm the only one that drives my car so it doesnt need to be moved. Granted the seats dont weigh the same as a carbon kevlar/fibre, but they do weigh about 2-3kg less than the stock r34 seats (rails etc incl). As for comfort, they are a racing "design" seat at the end of the day, they are built to hold you in place and they do a bloody good job at that. The first time i took my car for a drive it felt like i was in a go-kart, very direct feel. Each to their own, I was never in the market for seats but these came up in a deal i couldnt turn down, and I can't justify spending over 2k for EACH seat regardless if they are worth the $$, near on 5k can be better spent elsewhere imo. Also i've had mine for approximately a year now, no tears or marks etc.

If theres enough numbers at the end of each month (ie 30) he'll send it off each month. Otherwise if there isnt enough interest they will all be sent in one hit when the group buy ends in 3 months.

I'd thought that would be the case. I'll need r34 gtr mats then, I'll wait for the bloke to come back from holidays to see if he offers a template to suit gtrs/awd skylines. Cheers hungryGTR for setting it up.

I did, but then i sent them off to get flow checked and cleaned and the pricks threw out the boxes. It was the same part number listed on google etc. I think slide sells them on here under the traders, the part number should be listed there.

Scared haha, he's on a dyno, he can ease on the boost and keep it under control. If it was me, i would be running open boost just to see if it will go above 19psi, If it does then you know its more boost controller/actuator related. Cam timing dead on?

Luckily i've got a set in my room

have you pulled the boost lines off to the actuator? Just to see how much boost they can make. What boost controller are you running? What exhaust does it have at the moment?

A series one Stagea rb25det will drop straight in, no other wiring will be required, but a change of ecu would be a good idea (powerfc etc) Is your gts4 currently manual or auto? The only thing that you need to be careful is that you need to use the same diff ratio that you currently have. For example if yours is manual and you get a awd rb25det from an auto stegea (the autos are more common) then you will need to switch you sump/diff from your engine to the new rb25det since they have different ratio diffs. Other than that is relatively simple, but dont expect it to only cost a couple of grand. You need a new exhaust, intercooler setup, fuel pump, ecu, clutch etc and the list goes on.

Interested, is there a minimum number for this to go ahead? What sort of numbers would you need for it to be sent out monthly?

post it for $40 and I'll take it (perth)

I've got one you can have but i live in WA...

You've done a compression test and found a little drop in cylinder no1, so if it was me, thats where i would be looking. Do a leak down test, theres a good chance no1 will fail the test which more than likely means headgasket. All the other ideas are good, but when you've got a questionable compression test i would be looking there first.

you're a bad bad man...

But i wonder where they are getting that reading from? The manifold is always going to have a significant amount of heat soak, so if they are getting that reading from the throttle body or manifold that would be suprising. -40 degress would be dangerous on the street, the chances off the throttle body freezing on open throttle would be getting up there

What do you mean by wastegate breather? Doubt its your turbo, when the oil seal goes on those it leaks on the exhaust side so it will just make you blow clouds of smoke. If your cooler piping is full of oil it could be two things. -If the first motor had signficant damage and it was "breathing" it would of filled up your intercooler and piping with oil. Once they rebuilt the engine they might of cleaned the piping but overlooked the intercooler which may have 500mls of oil pooled inside. So your driving around and the engine is still sucking oil out of the cooler. FIX: Take the cooler and piping off, give it a decent degrease and let it drain for 24hrs. OR -Your current engine didnt have a very good rebuild and is breathing hard. By breathing i mean the ventilation hoses coming off the cam covers going to your intake is pouring oil throughout the system. Are you running a catch can? FIX: rebuild engine with correct specs Basically if it was mine, i would dodge up a little catchcan and connect it straight to the breather hose and drive it around for a day (giving it a bit of stick). If you fill the can up its the engine. If it only has a slight drop or a mist of oil then the oil in the piping is from the old engine so nothing to worry about. If thats the case clean the cooler and piping. Either way definately have a chat to the people that rebuilt the engine and let them know whats going on.

Good thought but ..... effort > gains If you were really keen just setup a co2 spray onto the cooler. I setup a dodgy cage one time on my FMIC and filled it will dry ice for the drags, didnt notice a difference and my intercooler was an iceblock. Efficient intercoolers shouldnt have that much heatsoak (unless its topmount), the only time you would really notice a difference is on a 40 degree day.

They come with a viscous lsd from factory, its just that they are getting on now (higher kms etc) and the diffs become "lazy". In saying that my bros lsd never cracked a single (r33 gts). Make sure that the rear tyres are exactly the same (width, brand etc). If one tyre isnt a grippy as the other it will be more inclined to bake one wheel.