R34GTFOUR

really? so you didnt change anything to do with the calipers or master cylinder? Do your old setup ever get "better" after you got the brakes hot? Did you take note what pads came out (brand etc)? I would of thought shitty fluid would of given a spongy feeling (since its not compressing properly), the rotors shouldnt really have much effect unless they are cracked so that just leaves the pads as the culprit. how much did you want for the rotors haha? did you have front and rear or just the fronts?

My brothers 32R has the exact same problem, really hard pedal. But if you push it hard it pulls up evenly, so i dont think its calipers. And you can get the brakes smoking after a decent workout so i doubt its "racing" pads. Is it common for the master cylinder to clap out on these? His car is 15yrs old now so it wouldnt overly surprise me, but i just havent heard too much about failing master cylinders in the skylines. Its quite funny because my stock na brakes shit all over his atm haha

Hate to say it but I'd say its a gearbox out job. If the car still wants to "drive" with the pedal pushed in the clearances arent right. Was it a custom clutch? what pressure plate was used? A mate of mine had some super duper custom twin plate for his XR6T and it took us forever to get it right. It took 3 different places to setup the clutch before the clearances were correct. Thats why i just go the jap stuff now

The first number relates to how quickly the oil gets to its correct viscosity (which is the second number). For example "in general" a 5w40 will offer greater cold start protection than a 15w40, since the 15w will take longer to get to the 40 weight. Obviously like any oil, the hotter it gets the "thinner" it gets, so if you really start giving it continous stick (ie track) the 5w40 will quickly overheat and become too thin compared to the 15w40. For a normal street skyline like you are describing get something that has the first number of 5 to 15w and the second number somewhere between 30 and 40. ie 5w30, 10w40, 15w40 etc For the brand side of things, spend as much as your wallet allows. If you can only fork out $60, get a castrol edge product, if you have $100 go a mobil, redline etc. The important thing is that you change it regularly, not so much the brand.

Unless your belting it hard on a track thats a tad too "thick" in the ways of viscosity. Oil depends on how you drive. If you are the "average" skyline driver that takes it easy when its cold then gives it a bit of stick while its warm any where from the 5W30 to the 15w40 will be ok. Basically the more you belt the car the higher the oil temp gets, which decreases its viscosity. If you are on the track you want something "thicker" because the oil will get to higher temps make it "thinner" (very very basic way of thinking about it)

Its impossible to tell over the net, theres a few common things that can cause the exact thing you're talking about. But from personal experience, my bro had a r33 gtst (basically stock) and it behaved like what you are talking about. We started with the basics. new plugs, regapped then to .7mm, new fuel filter, new fuel pump, new coil pack harness (had a spare) etc... Still had the problem, it would splutter and pop from about 4800rpm through to redline. Bought a powerfc, BANG fixed. Never had another problem. Instant impovement. Best mod on the car from date was the FC. My 2 cents

I ran mine though the front driver fender, thats where the main harness goes. Easy done, just pop the front wheel off and take out the inner guard, then just follow the factory harness. I personally wanted to run it straight off the battery cause i want to keep the amp power wire fuse as close to the battery as possible (in case if it shorts).

Thanks for the reply, i havent bought any gauges yet, thats probably one of the last things i'll get before the build. Any particular electronic gauge brands that you know will work with this dash? Just to keep things neat, if i could get away with running only the one aftermarket sensor that would be good.

Hi, I've already purchased a vipec for my r34, so if i purchase one of these EM PRO's does it need an additional oil pressure sensor to get a oil pressure reading (ie it can't use the same one that the stock dash uses?) if not, will a signal from an aftermarket electronic oil pressure gauge such as an apexi etc work instead?

^^ any decent tuner should be keeping any eye on the afrs as they are doing the run, if it starts to lean out they'll stop the run. imo stick it on the dyno and see what she says, you can still drive around if need be, just dont belt up on it until you get a proper dyno power run.

thats a great result for 21psi, top stuff. Where abouts you do live/drive it, i would love to see it gating around perth some time You'll need to drive around on MT slicks, even then it will smoke them haha

I'll be using my rb25de neo head on my rb30 build. Basically they are identical, even the cams have the same duration and lift. They only thing im not 100% on is the springs, on the r33's the na's have softer springs but im not sure with the neo. Regardless if you are rebuilding the head all the aftermarket neo cams, springs, lifters etc will bolt straight in since the physical head is identical. All the exhaust and inlet patterns are the same so all the aftermarket manifolds for the gtt's will bolt straight up aswell.

before you go too far, the combustion chamber in the neo head is smaller than the rb26 head, so that would bump up your CR. I would get the neo head cc'ed first to see how much it will jump up, otherwise sell the neo head and get the normal r33 rb25 head and use that since it has the same cc's as the 26

I personally wouldnt do it, the price for a greddy plenum isnt worth the gains you would make. If anything, with the shorter runners on the greddy plenum you would lose down low torque, which the rb25de neo has bugger all to start with. That with the piss weak cams the neo has from factory and you dont really have a winner. But if you must, get the plenum, use a q45 throttle body (bolts straight on and its near on 90mm) and use a r33 aac valve, everything else should work ok. You may need to space the fuel rail since the neo is top feed and the non=neo is side feed (which the greddy plenum is designed for). If you wanted to spend $1500 on a foward facing plenum (thats what they are worth these days brand new) + $150 for a Q45 + $300ish for other parts, i would source a stock gtr plenum with individual throttles and get it adapted to your head. You'll probably come out with a simular bill but individual throttles > 90mm throttle body

straight through on a na? that would be stupidly loud for the street and sound like poo... Just the drone you would get on the freeway would make you want to drive straight into a tree

why? there is no physical difference between the det and de neo heads, even the cams are the same. The only thing that might be different is the springs and it wouldnt cost much to replace those.

bloody hell VIC must suck ass... only one intake mod haha On a relatively stock gtst its not worth the upgrade, money is best spent elsewhere. It does clean up the engine bay alot though and shorter intake piping is always going to be a winner

i think it might just be the na r34's that have an open diff. Every na r33 i've been in has a stock viscous lsd diff (just like the gtst but they have different axles). But my r34 definately has a viscous lsd and thats stock and na (but awd). as for the conversion, its really a flip of the coin. You buy a complete engine, harness etc and you have pretty much everything you need which saves alot of time. Bolting a turbo onto your existing engine may work out a "little" cheaper but you have to go through the hassel of sourcing parts etc = time. If you are keeping the car and planning to do future mods get the det, much better starting point.

Put me down for one please, I'll definately need it delivered though.

+1 on a better lip I have "flared" my pipes and i use a single t-bolt clamp on each side, i have never had a pipe come off and thats with near on 25psi of boost. If the pipes werent flared, even with the best clamp on the market the pipes will still pop off. I would never run cheap china worm clamps, but i have seen plenty hold up to 18psi for years.

id say so

to be honest i wouldnt have a clue, never drilled a return with the engine still in the car, i would imagine it to be a tight fit

really 5bolt shafts? my r34 diff is the crap 3x2, must have something to do with the gtfour model. 4.3ish:1 ratio is the manual gts4, 4.11 is the gtr. Autos are definately much much taller gears, around the 3.5:1 Theres a bloke i use to know that had a auto diff in his r33 (was converted to manual) and the gears on that was redicously long, as in you wouldnt bother going back to 2nd at 50km/hr to give it some shit, you go back to 1st Definately wont go well with a na skiz, way way too slow

if its easier for you to put a nossle or attachment on the sump for the oil drain that should be fine (you'll most likely need to weld the hose nossle on since the sump wont be thick enough to start a thread). The 3SGTE from the celicas and mr2's run the same setup from factory, ie the turbo oil drain is near the very bottom of the sump, not on the bottom of the acutal block like the rb25's, and they dont have a problem with drainage. But in saying that, it would be very wise to take the sump off regardless which path you take obviously because of the metal filings. So once the sump is off it would be just as easy to dril and tap the block in the same stock location as long as the exhaust manifold/junk has been removed. Personally i would do that, just to make it look neater, but thats me

you'll need to drill a return, mine doesnt have one.