R34GTFOUR

great stuff, most of the r33 and r34 stuff is interchangable. When you say that you use the stock driveshafts, do you mean that you used the stock gtst 5 bolt rear shafts? Its just every r33 na diff runs the 3x2 bolt rear shafts, the same as my r34 diff atm. If anyone else wants to do the conversion, best to use the stock gtst manual diff, the auto diff has a ratio close to 3.5:1 which isnt very nice for a low torque engine like the rb25de I'll be putting the r32 gtr mechanical diff in my r34 in the next few months, i'll let you guys know how it goes. Congrates, now for some skids

im 99% sure you'll need a diff from an abs fitted car if you want you abs to keep working There are little speed sensors on the diff where the axles bolt on, the gtr diff has them and the reason im not 100% sure with the abs side of things is that my car is awd so it uses these same sensors for attessa, but im pretty sure a normal rwd abs fitted skiz will have the same sensors from abs control. I've been talking about replacing the whole diff, casing and everything with the axles. I wouldnt go swapping diff centres unless you have alot of experence, the clearances can be tricky. Is you na r34 open centre? My bros na lsd in his r33 was a viscous lsd and always baked both wheels. My r34 gtfour (na) has the same diff aswell, its not an open centre, but when i put the new engine in i will use the mechanical gtr diff for the stronger lsd. The gtr uses a 5 bolt pattern on the axles (same as gtst) where the na uses 3x2 bolt axles which wont hold up with decent power. Thats why if you are changing from a na diff to a gtst/gtr diff you need to use the axles for that diff.

sorry to hear i avoid parking at the galleria as much as possible. One of the few times i parked there, some useless shit reversed into my front bar. No message, no phone number, no nothing. Probably some old tart that didnt even realise she hit me... Only if i had no life, i would walk around the shopping centre car park all day and watch out for these useless pricks then promptly belt their head in with a trolley bar. So much for bloody security guards, useless pricks /rant

also did you flow check the injectors before you installed them? Even though they were brand new, sard have a bad rep with different flowrates for the same cc injectors straight out of the box. If one injector is down, that will cause pinging.

its running rich enough... what bp do you fill up at? do you always go to the same servo? if you do, i would try a different bp just in case its bad fuel.

theres no way you'll want a ratio in the low 3:1's it would turn it into an absolute pig, especially with the na neo rb25, it would almost be dangerous If you want slightly better ratios, get the r32 gtr diff, it has a slightly better ratio of 4.11 which should give you a 100kmhr cruising rpm of around 2700ish. It will still be driveable on the street and the diff is a mechanical lsd from factory which is an added bonus. There was a car that my brother and i did a turbo/manual conversion (was originally an r33 auto na) and he ran out of money and left the stock auto diff in. That thing was terrible to drive, the gears were soooo long it ruined it. An thats with the added torque from a rb25det and the stock auto ratio is around the 3.5 mark. Just to give you an idea, we were smashing it back to 1st at 50kmhr if we wanted to "race" The neo rb25de just doesnt have the torque to power such long gears, a r32 gtr diff is as good as it will get with the stock 5 speed

yes, but there wouldnt be a point to that since the r33 gtst diff is only a viscous lsd anyway. If you were going to do the upgrade get a stock r32 mechanical gtr diff

i dont have pics, but you'll have the same problems with running a gtr diff, you'll need the axles to suit. Na have a piss weak axle bolt pattern which is different to the turbo stuff. If you change the axles aswell it should be a plug n play job

how much for a 52mm r34 gtt radiator?

my na r34 diff looks identical to my brothers old na r33 diff if thats any help, same axle pattern etc

i would just go genuine parts, pay the little extra and dont get the headache later on. why are you taking the head off for a service? just shaving the head isnt going to net much gains

if you are changing the whole diff housing etc then it will physically bolt up, but the axles wont. You'll need to run gtr rear axles. So it not a direct bolt up without the other parts

if you are using the rb25 accessories (ie power steering, alternator etc) then use the rb25 harmonic if you are using the rb26 acessories you use the rb26 harmonic

^^^ that was me btw, logged onto the wrong account

drop it down to 16ish psi the rims wont spin inside the tyres or any of that rubbish If you're running 40psi in your tyres with the 1/4mile runs, thats half your problem. Also with the launch, dont dump the clutch, hold the revs up and "feather" it out and jump on the throttle at the same time. You should get 2.0 or even 1.9 with a good launch

if its going to be a daily the rb25 pump will do the trick, you wont need the crank collar sine the rb25 runs a narrow nose crank like the rb30 If you are going to spend abit of $$ on the conversion and track it abit, an upgraded oil pump is good insurance

i'm going to take a stab in the dark and assume you meant oil pump collar instead, but thats only if he uses a widenose gtr pump

if you are using the neo head and want a high compression turbo motor (RB30DET), grab the flat top CP pistons that spool sell in his kit for the normal rb25/30. Depending how you set up the motor, you'll get anywhere from 9.0 to 10:1 CR, i doubt you'll want more than that I want mine around the 8.8 mark, still responsive but will still like some boost

this is exactly what im going to be doing, but i will be smacking GT35R on the side of mine The neo head has slightly smaller combustion chambers than the normal rb25/26 head, its somewhere around the 60cc per pot compared to 64ish cc in the normal head. This makes quite a bit of difference to the CR. With the na rb30 pistons, a deck block, thin hg and the neo head, that would have to net around the 10:1 if not higher. I think the na rb25 pistons might be a tad too much but just grab one of the online CR calculators and start plugging in numbers and you'll see what you'll need. I havent really looked that much into the na side of things since will be going the turbo route, but with mine acl rb30et pistons, neo head, decked block and a 1mm hg will get around the 8.5-9.0 CR mark. Obviously with the na route you would want much more than that

where did you get the new plug from? nissan? EDIT: Just re-read it and you got one machined So you drilled the 2mm whole in the bottom of the plug, but how far along did you drill the 1.5mm whole to feed the vct? Well Done!

The na master cylinder will do the job. My brother has gtst brakes on his gts and he kept his gts master cylinder, all good. If you were really going to go crazy on the brakes to the point of upgrading the master cylinder you would be looking at bigger calipers than the gtst stuff. The only other thing to do as mentioned above is to get the gtst brake lines as the na calipers use a different line going on the caliper itself. Other than that its pretty straight foward.

i've gone too soft for this sort of stuff, i like my ac

this will be interesting, i've been look at the rb25 head and thought that if the timingbelt/gear wasnt in the way it would be a great place to supply oil to the vct, what sort of clearance are you going to have between the plug and cam gear?

its normal to have abit of popping, my pops it ass off normally If you think its excessive or getting worse i would check for intake leaks, just simple things like tight hose clamps and all vacuum hoses are on tight with cable ties. What bov are you running? Could that be leaking slightly? Also what ecu are you running? stock or tuned? if the turbo is still boosting fine without funny noises it should be ok, a quick 16psi spike wont hurt it, continous high boost will. Also remember it is summer now, turbo cars hate the heat so its normal to have a significant drop in power during the day aswell.

time to see what that new stroker rb30 will do