sky-017

your talking a GTR i take it ? nothing is impossible , its more patience and accuracy . planning ahead is a must , basically if you make the right template , your set . also if 2 pods can fit in an engine bay on a GTR or anything for that matter , you will surely be able to make an enclosure with the right design.

if you need any help PM me , iv installed about 5 on 96 gtst's and up .... they are a tricky process , and also time consuming .. its more patience and accuracy when scribing the front bar . the rest is straight forward .

alright here are all the details i have on how to make this / and how much it cost . tools needed : - stanley knife - tin snips - grinder - scissors - pen / black marker - 3 mm drill bit - battery drill - philips n1 bit - for drill / or screwdriver - 76mm hole saw / H.S.S (quality is a must ) - 10 mm drill bit - pliers materials needed : - cardboard ( approx 2 @ 400 mm x 200 mm ) = free if you can find. - 1 - 2 mm aluminium / tin / steel .( approx 2 @ 400 mm x 200 mm ) = unsure on price . wont be more than $10 - 15mm philips head screws , threaded type = $3 - L type metal brackets = $5 - rubber from a fly screen / or safety - fold over protector = $7 basically this is really easy in writting but takes a bit of practice . 1/ get your card board . remove afm and anything in the way . the easiest way to scribe the shape of the wheel gaurd is to estimate the shape of the round and cut it on the carboard. also attempt to cut the part that runs flat along .. you can either do it in 2 peices then tape together .. or do it in one like i did 2/ once you have scribed the shape . transfer it onto the steel/tin you decide to use ... using high quality tin snips . cut out the shape . also cut a square approx 1 cm x 1cm for the cables to run through that sit on the flat part of the body . 3 / once you have cut it out onto the steel , grab your AFM . now trace the 4 screw holes . and measure and mark the centre for the 3 inch air flow hole (76mm) . 4 / collect your hole saw and drill the centre air flow hole . 5 / using a 10 mm bit or smaller drill the holes for the scews . 6 / on the aluminium - drill 2 holes aproxx 5 mm from the bottom , on on either side . these are to screw and hold the frame to the lower body . 7 /using the rubber from a fly screen . cut the length of the frame so the rubber can sit along the bottom of the body . grab your stanly knife and slice it all the way down the middle .now you can slide it onto the bottom of the frame . 8/make a bend in the frame . this has to be along the wheel gaurd. then screw the clips onto the frame / and screw the frame to a spot on the body . 9 / now grab your other piece of cardboard and sit it over the top . mark around the cardboard where the curve follows , and estimate the the angle of the front body . 10 / in between your estimations you will find you will need to cut more off and if your unlucky add more to your template . 11 / once this has been cut correctly . you will now trace it onto the other bit of steel/tin . although when cutting , add another 10mm along the straight edge to allow for the over hang / fold over. 12 / once you have traced , cut it out yet again - also mark the 10 mm line along the angled part . and sit it over the top for positioning . you will now need to mark the point where the angle meets . then you will cut a line 10mm so that you can have to seperate fold overs . 13/ using your pliers you will now bend the fold over to the line you marked.. 14/ if you used thick material like i did , after bending and folding you may need to grind it down so its flush . 15 / now you should be able position it over the top . 16 / if all was done well , all you have to do is grap your L type brackets and sit them over the top and overhang on the sides... grab a pen . and mark the hole positioning . grab the drill and drill into the frame and top . last but not leastly , screw your screws in . now your DONE!... 17 / paint the frame and top for a more original look . specifically heat resistant paint . i will post up some pics once i have painted mine .. cheers = must add to DIY section or so forth .

i was going to use aluminium ... but this stuff is like steel i think , its about 1.2 mm .. its not easy to work with . i didnt buy it , i picked up a few sheets around where i work , in an industrial area ... its easy to bend , but was tough to do the fold over on the top panel ... if i were to make some more id be considering using thinner material .. because itll make things so much better to work with ... but im happy with how strong it feels ..

i ribbed the around all the joins with rubber , i have yet to do the top - but will rib that once painted. but yeah everything is tight and no gaps

iv been thinking for ages how to design this and have tried several ideas , from a tight bowl around my pod , to trying to make bends with aluminium around the afm and cables etc.. iv seen some other designs out there , some work some dont .. what iv done is basically scribed around the wheel gaurd , attatched the afm through the frame . i aslo have a CAI comming up through the stock intercooler hole which will feed my cold air ... although im hunting another idea where the stock snorkle was , although sold mine .. so im thinking of making something similar . all i need to do now is prep and paint with some heat proof paint . possibly black so it looks stock - hehe tell me what you think , here are some pic... cheers

as i said try relocate the vacume hose to the vacume hose running off the BOV... but yeah you will know if its misfire because close to 6000 rpm she will drive like shes slipping and will make a very noticable noise . open up your coil pack cover . check all the coil packs for cracks . . . if your spark plug gap is 1.5 , change them to 0.8 . that will fix the problem mode no : ngk's , BCPRE6S ... $3.80 a plug from super cheap auto . i replaced mine the other week - made my car run so much better when i had misfiring from installing a turbo tech boost controller... hope this helps - i think its your problem cheers...

when your boosting is it making a fumbling noise , and noticable out of your exhaust? if so your probably having a misfire .... could of just started when you put your intercooler on .. and emerged when the boost was raised .. your not using a turbo tech boost controller are you? your going to need to drop to 0.8 for your spark plug gap . also another thing to do is , block your nipple from the intercooler pipe and try run it from the bov vacume hose . if your worried about the nipple effecting how the car runs , this could be your problem . see if these help - cheers

agreed with whats said , although if your worried theres a leak somewhere go and diagnose it . it could be your turbo is on its way ... thus your running the deadline of boost it should take... most people hold back at 10 - 11 psi ... im using 10 myself.

silicon sounds good . at least that way if skirts are ever removed it can peal off and be re applicated... thanks for the info guys.

where can i go to purchase the paint ? also will they give me the ratios i will need to mix the paints ? also when attatching the skirts , what is the best stuff to use to attach where it wont sit flush , something strong and sticky? where can i pick that up cheers

can be a single or double gauge holder to fix to stock pillar..... PM me with all offers , all welcome...

price drop . $1450 $1350 with stock r33 rims... all trades considered...

i have the equipment to do it . although : 1 - how much will the paint cost ? 2 - can i buy it ready to spray , or am i going to have to add hardener and all that ... but how much is it to get it done professionally

iv got some side skirts and rear pods i want to get painted , how much is the going price if anyone may know.... and where are some good places in sydney to go / which can also do fitment.?

you can buy a 3 pack gauge set , for the pocket in the dash . they are tiny gauges.. keep looking around

yep search and you will find .... its a big job for someone who has never done it before.. expect 6-8 hrs depending on your skill level

back it off , when air is hissing out you will know when its too loose. is this an atmo and plum bov? .... if so try running it atmo and block off the plumpback..... see what happens...

every one goes through tough times with their car .... trying learning some more though , save your self the dosh .. i sure as hell couldnt fork out money like that to fix something so minuscule . maybe try attempt things yourself...

why post when there is no price , ??????????

damn , you got ripped off hard . you should get a quote before you persue things in the future ... and have a receipt and statement on a fixed price.. try cleaning things afm / acc valve.. next time attempt to do these things yourself - they arent that hard with all the write ups in the DIY

i usually drive from sydney up to brisbane , ever few months ... 10.5 is my shortest time . few tips - take coffee or some ice coffee if your driving at night like i do - heaps of music - lollies - chew chew chew - really does help ( numerous times iv felt like i was gonna fall asleep) your car should be fine regardless of how its running now - unless you have major problems which your worried about . be sure to check all your liquid levels , etc .... safe trip - cheers

replace your plugs to .08 gap . check coil packs . happens in cold weather change as said

your car will be fumbling , and runing like shit ... make a dn dn dn dn dn dn sound on the end of your boost in gear chance..... go gap your plugs or check coil packs..

damn sad to hear mate . were you doing anything stupid to get pulled over or did they just randomly pull you up? i say as said , make a pod enclosure . go to an exhust shop = and shove in a silencer , that way you can take it out later... silencers are really good - it'll deaden any noise... i put mine in the other week and it goes from a loud note - to a stock car.. amazing. what kind of spoiler do you have? thats pretty fkd up getting defected for that , never heard of anything like that..