LBG

Seems to do it everytime I drive now after a little bit. It's like it just hits a wall and makes no more power or torque.

Hey guys, My 32 (rb20) has developed a problem and I'm hoping someone can shed some light on what may be causing it. It first happened a month or two ago and is doing it more frequently now. What it feels like is that once it gets to about 3500 revs it's being choked and it doesn't want to make any more power. It feels the worst in 2nd gear but that might just be the way the gearing is set up. The car still revs all the way to 7000 and still holds 12 PSI till redline as well. If I pull over and turn my car off then turn it back on it will be fine again. This leads me to believe it may be something electronic. I've checked all my plugs for anything that could be loose and all seems to be fine. Has anyone else had an issue of this sort? Any help would be greatly appreciated BTW, Car is stock other than exaust, FMIC and fuel pump.

PM sent.

I bought a brand new one for an R32 GTST and installed it myself. Cost about $200 for the new hub. Another option is to buy a second hand one. It's quite simple to change if you have a decent set of tools and a 36 socket.

Just use an extension for your socket then stick a bit of pipe over your breaker bar and get ready to hear a big crack as it loosens.

Let it go, people. The point has been made.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fu...;hl=direct+feed

Hey guys, Looking to replace my diff with a better example. Mine makes alot of clunking when taking off and changing gears (especially when turning) and whines alot. I'm also after a replacement drive shaft as one of mine has popped it's end cap off. Let me know if you have any of these available. Only looking for good condition gear.

I'm using the Just Jap cooling pro FMIC on my R32 and I can't fault it for the lower end power applications like yours.

I've just pulled out my rear lower control arms and burnt out the old bushings to replace them with some Nolathane ones. The part number is 46216 if that helps anyone. Now the problem that has come up is that the Nolathane bushings aren't a snug fit in the actual control arm. They have movement, as in I can move them in a circular motion when both sides and the crush tube are in. The next problem is that when they are sitting in the control arm they are now too wide to fit the brackets on the subframe which leads me to believe they are the wrong bushings. Anyone had this issue before or know which are the correct bushings to order? My car is sitting up on stands now with no rear control arms and no bushings in the control arms so I can't put the f**kers back in to drive it. >< The car is a 1990 R32 Skyline 4 Door also.

My indicator/highbeam stalk assembly is now stuck with highbeams to the "on" position. I'm chasing a replacement one if anyone has one available or are wrecking an R32 I can come and pull it off. You can contact me on 0419175106

Diff - SOLD!

Bride Seat Rail - SOLD!!!! BennettR32GTS-T - Im located on the gold coast

My mobile number has changed - its 0421 989 144. Grab yourself a bargain!

Can supply pictures if needed.