ProphetR33

Why do you want 4" outlets? 3" is more than enough most kits come with 2.5" or 3.0". Or shouldn't I be asking when you've got a 4.5" exhaust? 4" is overkill unless you've got a massive turbo. Its not about airflow that causes lag, what causes lag is the time it takes for your turbo to build pressure in your piping to your intercooler and plenum and the intercooler itself, so the bigger your piping, the more air your turbo needs to flow to build up that pressure.

A mechanic with virtually no knowledge can do it for you. Some mechanics won't want to fit exhausts though, so you may have to ask a few. Its just a case of unbolt and bolt up the new one... Things will only fit up one way, its not difficult for anyone to do.

Was a HSV clubsport or GTS built as a family car? Same argument. The japanese definition of a "family car" and say american or australians is vastly different. Just because its a coupe doesn't mean it was designed as a sports car. Both vehicles have their "sporty" equivalents. Neither base models were designed as sports cars. The skyline has better handling and a more cost effective pathway to modifications, but that doesn't mean in its base form it was designed as a sports car. A stock gen3 SS will beat a stock rb25 down the quarter, so which is more "sporty"? A car's a preference, who cares who has what. I respect the work people into every car across the board within reason, whether I'd take the same path as them is a different story though.

Its pretty easy to install your self, just remove the heatshield, unbolt the dump pipe from the turbo, unbolt ya cat at both ends and its just a case of unclipping your catback from the brackets. Some bolts will be rusted on though, so its always fun getting them off. If you've got any mates who have got any idea about cars, you'll be able to do it in 2 or 3 hours provided you're not sitting there for an hour trying to get one bolt off like I did with my dump pipe An exhaust shop might fit it for around $250? As for a tune, you won't need one, but a tune won't hurt, you'll still get some more kw with a tune. It all depends on your other mods, ideally you will get the most out of your car if you tune it after every mod, but thats just not worth it. Most people get a FMIC, turbo back exhaust, boost controller, better flowing air intake (POD or hi flow filter), then start looking at a tune.

As said before. You get everything. Dump/Front Pipe, Cat, Catback. Sorry if I confused you. I was just saying if you already have a high flow cat, you can get a more trusted brand and a more proven package for a similar price.

I'm going the trust hi-power extreme II cat-back for $899. If you've already got the hi-flow cat, then you just need a dump and front pipe ($250). Personally I'm going with a more trusted name, but if you are going turbo back, you won't get a better price than that and you don't need anything else.

Not anymore... The GEN-TT kits are killing most supercharger kits horsepower figures. They only cost 9 grand as well, so they're pretty cheap in terms of kw gained. Superchargers were king about 2 years ago, alot has changed in R&D for turbos on V8's since then though. Alot of VX SS' are running around with the GEN-TT kits now, with not much else done and they're running mid to low 11's

The intake plenum would be the only place that there would be an offchance of residual water. In any case, I agree it won't rust. Rust forms when iron is exposed to impurities in water that trigger the oxidisation process, given the heat of the intake, high pressured airflow and the density of the mist there is pretty much no chance that there would be any water left to trigger the oxidisation in the first place. No more than a humid day would leave, or condensation when left over night etc etc.

I never run cars on regular unleaded. I was just saying I don't see how a non-turbo skyline "needs" 98 RON. 95 is more than enough.

Get T-Boned on a road that bends around towards the back of your car and they won't pay guaranteed. It doesn't matter if you're using an inch of your rear side window or the whole thing. If they can deem that any of the window obscured your vision, then they have reason to reject your claim. I don't know about you, but it's pretty common for me to glance out my rear side windows whether it be changing lanes, at intersections, reversing, parking etc etc.

Painting your intercooler won't make much of a difference to heat, there has been many well publicised tests stating the difference in intake heat is negligible. Just make sure when painting it you use radiator paint (has better heat dispersion characteristics than regular paint) and when spraying do not spray directly onto the intercooler, spray across the intercooler with very light coats (this avoids clogging up the intercooler core with excess paint). The R34 GTT cooler has a bigger surface area and thus more efficient than the R33, you'll have less lag, but if you're going for higher horsepower then the front mount is the only way to go.

You need to put 98 RON in a GTS? I don't think so. You can run the things on regular unleaded or standard 95 RON premium no worries. It's not as if you have to worry about it pinging its ass off. Its all personal preference but for a non-turbo skyline I wouldn't ever bother running it on anything higher than 95 RON. As for the risks of parts breaking etc, you always run that risk with any car over 3 years old, a skyline is no different. If you can barely afford the car alone then don't buy it, you've always got to be prepared for something to go wrong.

I know a bloke who got rejected because he had 2 chaser rims on instead of the factory alloys he specified in his policy. (Luckily it was not a major claim and not worth taking to court). Insurance companies will do anything to not pay up. Anything that is deemed to hinder your driving and illegal will most certainly be used against you in a claim. Its not worth leaving up to chance.

Goto a window tinting place they'll remove it for you for around $50. Replace the tint with something lighter and they'll probably do it for you for free. Removing tint is pretty easy with a razor blade, heat gun and goo remover (or eucalyptus oil), but doing a rear window has obvious problems that's better left to a professional (heater grid in the window scraping off). As for the legalities of the tint, it is legal as far as I know, I think your rear windshield and rear windows are excluded from the 30% tint law. Its only your driver and passenger window, plus windscreen that are illegal if tinted too dark. Cars with two different tints look ridiculous IMO, and if its giving you grief reversing or parking, get rid of it.

I got a quote from Just Cars for $2411pa. Finally got my quote back from Ryno insurance. $1233. I'm 23, had one suspension of license in the last 5 years. I wonder which offer I'll take

I'll be there if I'm not busy. Just post a date and time.

Yep everything is connected before I give it power. Its got me stumped, I can't find anywhere of someone having a similar problem.

Hey guys I've got an IEBC and hand controller and assembled them. I have one problem though. When I connect the IEBC to the hand controller it only displays blocks on the screen. I've read through this thread and I'm not much of an electronics guru so I'm useless at testing. However I have done all the things that have been listed previously Made sure the hidden link is connected in the hand controller. Swapped the dot and line processors (I know I have it the right way around as with one of them on 2 of the LED's light up instead of the 3. I know all the chips are in correct orientation because I burnt out a resistor testing it in the opposite direction. I have bought the cable from Jaycar and my local computer shop with no luck. Toyed around with the trimpot on the IEBC. Made sure all the jumpers were correct. Went over every joint a again on both devices to make sure they weren't dry. So if all 3 lights are working on the IEBC does that suggest that my problem is with my hand controller? I'm seriously stuck and about to throw the thing. Can anyone think of anything else that may not be causing it to work?

Gotta love the flywheel on those things haha, take the foot off the accelerator and it keeps spinning for ages afterwards. My sister has one, apart from the flywheel they're a decent small car (due to 6 speed gearbox) even if they have no balls

Screw the looks I'd rather have one of these in my shed Or one of these Both would be nice

haha TOY-57L... It's a holden 5.0L engine in the thing. This lines a classic.. "(with inbuilt rocer rollers producing200+ hp on the wheels. custem built oil pan insures the engine never starve for oil.)"I think 215kw sticker dosen't do justice." haha what a moron.

Wanna see some crazy GT-R dyno footage? If only it said how many kw it made. R33 GT-R

Nothing beats an old esky filled with ice and a coiled tap line running through it. Cheaper, portable and doesn't require electricity, oh and classy

Personally I would GEN-TT kit the LS1. 2JZ and the RB26 are great, but don't match the low down torque of the LS1. For the cost of the conversion, I can't see how it would bring better gains compared to spending the money on the LS1.

You're not making yourself very clear. Bonnet Bay is actually in the "Sutherland Shire" for anyone interested in buying this item. About 30 mins south of the Sydney CBD. You confused me in your first post, and I live 2 suburbs away Good luck with the sale.